DIAMOND PYTHON SYNDROME

[Lurk]

Hi everyone
I am wondering if any one has more information or more indepth about Diamond python syndrome? That can be put on the site for my use and any one else who may need more information.
Cheers Lurk

[jessop]

have you read this old post? Diamond Python Syndrome _POSTEDON Sunday, February 09, 2003 - 02:22 PM
Interesting article, I came across about Diamond Pythons.

The diamond python has got to be one of the most awesome looking pythons on earth! They are one of my favorites in terms of pattern and color. There are many debates over how diamonds should be kept and this is in direct correlation to a problem facing diamond pythons coined "diamond syndrome".

This is a peculiar affliction that apparently has been seen in diamond pythons in their early adult years. Many start with symptoms of a respiratory condition. They are usually "chronic" and do not respond to antibiotic therapy. After a while they seem to develope britle bones from a calcium reduction, in some cases ribs will crack under little pressure and the skin begins to get soft and loose feeling almost flabby. The animal usually ends up dying and necropsies can show any number of problems associated with death. But what is to be done? Most do not know why this affects diamonds however I have talked with several breeders of healthy adults and have come up with a few solutions to the problem only time will tell.

First off Many experienced keepers keep this snake like a colubrid instead of a python! Temperatures will never reach the high 80s or 90 degrees rather erring on the side of the middle 70s and low 80s. These snakes are extremely durable at low temperatures. Look at the temperatures occuring in their natural environment. Sometimes we tend to treat all pythons like they are the same but after years of observation you will notice they are not the same and diamonds are far from normal pythons. Many breeders in the past have blamed bad egg clutches on Diamond syndrome however usually they were caused by insufficient cooling periods. They were afraid to cool their pythons because of the cost they were worth and they were afraid to experiment with low temperatures. This is also seen with breeders working with boelens pythons currently. They are worth so much they do not want any problems associated with lower temperatures.

Next is possibly the uvb requirements of diamonds. No one is exactly sure if diamonds need uvb exposure and the consenses is still out however breeders that have had success start supplementing vitamins d & e with juvenile specimens after the first feeding instead of uvb lighting. This done within the first year will presumably fill the specimens growing skeleton sufficiently With essential calcium to support life into adulthood and facilitate strong bones.

This also brings up another interesting note that I have heard and that is that U.S. breeders raise their offspring WAY too fast. In the hopes of capitalizing on their investment breeders will keep snakes at higher temperatures and feed their offspring often to induce faster than normal growth rates. This may be a fatal mistake with diamonds. In fact a couple of successful breeders actually cool their young snakes and do not try and raise an adult in two or three years. They will rasie them to adults in 4 years or longer. This supposedly lets the snake grow at a sufficient rate in comparison with its skeleton maturity and its skin cells and does not stretch fat reserves before necessary.

So lets review what can be done to help solve the problems of diamond syndrome.

#1-Supplement juvies with calcium, d and e supplements. One that might be useful is mineral I from sticky tongue farms.

#2-do not keep them at high temperatures.

#3-cool juveniles and young every year regaurdless of breeding intentions.

#4-do not try to raise them fast as other python species.

#5-uvb natural sunlight may be of benefit hey it cant hurt! 3 times weekly in fall and spring when its not too hot. Or use the NEW active heat lamp.

#6-Breed females only when they have sufficient body weight.

So they should be kept with a warm spot around 82-85 and temperatures hovering in the low to mid 70s. In fact spots in the 60s are fine as well for a lerger gradient of temperatures. Hide boxes are utilized and they also like to climb. Branches are utilized but are not necessary for the happiness of the snake. They are usually very tame if handled frequently and are very personable. Humidity requirements are medium to high reaching between 65and 75%. Enclosures however should not become too wet. Substrate can be any number of things from moss and mulch to newspaper or reptile carpets. It should be kept clean and dry no matter which you use. They do like to soak occasionally and a large water container can be given especially when shedding. They feed well on rodents as adults eating large rats or smaller rabbits and guinea pigs. They average between 6 and 8 feet in length.

[Rosemary]

While we are talking about diamond pythons..............how hard are they to sex by probing? I have heard that probing isnt accurate with diamonds?
Thanks for any information
Rosemary

[Lurk]

The only information I have read on this is in the book I have (KEEPING CARPET PYTHONS) The information you just gave was so much more indepth it was great. I just have one question ,can i start supplementing now even though they are 3-5 years ? and would I do this by injecting there food ? may be silly question but would like to know for sure and not just assume.
Thanks for your feed back

[Lurk]

It is accurate as far as I have seen.I have never heard that one before but maybe some truth to it : Hope there is someone with more knowledge on the subject.You have me thinking now but I dont see how they would be any different.
Sorry I cant be of more help on subject

[nickvelez]

do a search from the top of the page on diamond python syndrome and select seach for all terms- shed loads of info! just got to sift through it.