Red Eyed Tree Frogs

[Greebo]

HI everybody,
Could someone point me to a caresheet for Red Eyed Tree frogs? I have looked around but have been unable to find any.

Cheers
Greebo

[meshe1969]

There is one link here:

http://frogs.org.au/community/viewto...3fef9947a38838

[gary.wheeler7]

there is a lot on google serch

[Greebo]

Thanks Gary but that photo is of the mexican red eyed tree frog...not the Australian one. Most of the info I found on the net was about them...not much use really.

[gary.wheeler7]

Home Animals Amphibia Red-eyed Tree Frog
Red-eyed Tree Frog Fact File

Litoria chloris








Red-eyed Tree Frog, Litoria chloris
Photo: Pavel German





The Red-eyed Tree Frog is one of eastern Australia's most colourful frogs. Despite its prominent red eyes and bright green back it is less often seen than its relative, the Green Tree Frog (Litoria caerulea). This is due in part to its nocturnal habits, feeding only at night on moths and other insects. It also spends much of its time high in the foliage of trees, coming down only to breed in ground pools.
Breeding usually occurs during the summer months. Males gather around temporary pools following heavy rain and all call together with a 'waa-aa...waa-aa' sound, followed by a soft trill. At close range these frog choruses can be unbearably loud. After mating, eggs soon hatch into tadpoles that must metamorphose into froglets before the pools dry out. The tiny froglets are a mustard colour but they turn green later on. They are spectacular acrobats and are capable of catching insects in flight.
Distribution:
Eastern Australia north of mid New South Wales.
Habitat:
Urban areas, forests and woodlands, heath, wetlands.
Status:
Common
Size:
Up to 6.5 cm.

AUSTRALIAN MUSEUM
Copyright © Australian Museum 2008

[gary.wheeler7]

Menu Pet Shops and Breeders! - Click here to distribute our care sheets for free!
Snake Care Sheets Lizard Care Sheets Turtle Care Sheets Amphibian Care Sheets General Care Sheets WNYHS Home
Get notified by e-mail when new or updated care sheets are posted!

Upcoming Events Wednesday, February 20th February's meeting will feature Penny Danielwicz, Reptile Keeper from the Buffalo Zoo to talk to us about AZA's Year of the Frog and what we can do to help amphibians.

Meetings start promptly at 8pm in the Alumni Room of Medaille College.

• About Us
• Care Sheets
• Field Guide
• Herp Info
• Herp Laws
• Herp Grant

• Reptile Show
• Adoptions
• Presentations
• Link Directory
• More Resources

Red Eyed Tree Frog Care Sheet and Information

Please click here for a printable PDF version.
Common Name: Red Eyed Tree Frog
Latin name: Agalychnis callidryas
Native to: Southern Mexico to Eastern Panama
Size: Male red eye tree frogs average about 2 to 2½ inches (51 - 64 mm) snout-vent length. Females average 2½ to 3 inches (64mm - 76 mm) snout-vent length.
General appearance: All red eye tree frogs have their signature red eyes with vertical pupils and a green back and a creamy white belly. Some red eye tree frogs have white spots on their back as well. The feet are yellow to orange in color. Color and size can vary depending on the geographic location the frog comes from. Red eye tree frogs from the northern part of the range tend to be slightly smaller with blue display flanks while specimens from the southern part of the range tend to be larger but have less colorful display flanks.
Housing requirements:
Enclosure: Generally speaking, enclosures should be at least 10-gallons in size for a pair of red eye tree frogs. A good rule is to allow 5 gallons per frog kept. Cage tops should be half glass and half screen to help keep humidity levels higher. If possible try to use enclosures that are taller to allow the red eye tree frogs places to climb and room for foliage.
Temperature: Red eye tree frogs do best at temperature ranges of 60° - 85° F (15° - 30° C), though long periods of time at their temperature extremes can be unhealthy for the animals. They do well with average daytime temperatures of about 75°- 80° F (24° - 27° C) and nighttime temperatures of 70°- 75° F (21° - 24° C).
Heat/Light: Usually red eye tree frogs do well at room temperature, but if needed, an under-tank heater, low wattage incandescent bulb, or ceramic emitters can be used to raise the temperature of the enclosure. In summer months steps need to be taken to keep the enclosure cool, such as to make sure the enclosure is not in direct sunlight and to circulate the air in the room with a fan or open window. UV light has not been proven to be helpful or harmful to these animals but if your enclosure contains live plants you should provide some light for the plants. A 12-hour photo period should be provided and can be achieved by using a timer.
Substrate: The substrate provided should be able to help hold higher humidity levels. A layer of 3 to 5 inches (76 - 127 mm) of substrate such as orchid bark or potting soil and sphagnum moss can be used. If desired aquarium gravel can be used on the bottom level for drainage.
Environment: Because red eye tree frogs come from a tropical rain forest, a higher humidity level of 60% to 70% is a must. Higher humidity levels can be maintained by regular mistings, appropriate substrate, and partially cover the cage top. If water droplets begin to form on the glass, the humidity is probably too high. Red eye tree frogs also love to climb on broad-leaf plants such as Philodendron, Anthurium, and Mongtera species.

Diet: Like may amphibians, red eye tree frogs are insectivorous. Insects such as crickets, flies, fruit flies, and just about anything smaller than their mouth. Crickets are usually the easiest and most readily available food supply. When feed crickets it is important to gut load the crickets with a good diet to provide the best nutrition for your frog. Fresh water should be provided in a dish for the frogs because they will rehydrate themselves by soaking in the disk. They will often drink from the water accumulated on the plants from misting as well.
Maintenance: It is important to mist red eye tree frogs on a regular basis. Depending on your local environment, cage setup, and substrate you may have to mist as often as daily to only two to tree times a week. Owners should also be wary of unfiltered tap water as it may contain substances harmful to your frogs. It is best to use filtered and dechlorinated water for misting and drinking. The enclosure should be spot cleaned as needed and should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected regularly to prevent mold from growing in the substrate. A 5% bleach solution makes an excellent disinfectant. Be sure to rinse the enclosure thoroughly after disinfecting. As always, be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after handling your frogs or any cage accessories.
Other references or recommended reading:
de Vosjoli, Phillippe, Robert Mailloux, and Drew Ready. Care and Breeding of Popular Tree Frogs. Santee, CA: Advanced Vivarium Systems, 1996
"Red-Eyed Tree Frog." 1998 Czar Helix. Retrieved 6 September 2002. http://www.helixpro.net/anuran/redeye.htm
"Red Eyed Tree Frogs." California Zoological Supply. Retrieved 6 September 2002. http://www.calzoo.com/html/redeyedtreefrogs.html
"Red Eyed Tree Frogs." Retrieved 6 September 2002 http://www.geocities.com/.../redeye.html


Remember that in many places it is illegal to take wildlife out of the wild without the proper permits from local, state, or federal authorities. Please do not release any captive reptiles or amphibians into the wild as this will disrupt the natural order of our environment. See our amphibian and reptile adoptions page for more information on what to do with unwanted herps.

<< WNYHS Home: Find Amphibian and Reptile Information

Join the WNYHS!
Buy Feeder Insects
Site Map
Buy Cool Herp Stuff!


Purchase high quality feeder insects from ReptileFood and a portion of the proceeds will benefit the WNY Herpetological Society
Help further herpetology research and education by donating to the Marvin R. Aures Herpetological Grant



Care Sheets | Field Guide | Herp Info | Reptile Show | Reptile Adoptions | Herp Grant
Copyright, Privacy, and COPPA Statement
© 2008 by the Western New York Herpetological Society

[Greebo]

"Native to: Southern Mexico to Eastern Panama"

[meshe1969]

Besides the Chloris care sheet above, some people keep them with caruleas, so they are not that dissimilar.

[herpsrule]

http://frogs.org.au/community/viewto...6e37400d8026c1

[Kyro]

I found this posted by Anne on frogs.org.auAUSTRALIAN RED EYE TREE FROG

Litoria Chloris



Native to the coastal rainforests and flooded grasslands of Northeastern Queensland, these nocturnal frogs are bush and tree dwellers. They are most active after a heavy rainfall.



Maximum size: 2.6”



Lighting: Specialized reptile lights for viewing nocturnal animals would be a good choice. Avoid basking type lighting, which would dry out the terrarium and be detrimental to the frogs.



Temperature range: Day 78 -85 Night 66-77



Food: Crickets, flies, and moths coated in calcium and vitamin powder.



Water: A bowl of clean, dechlorinated water should always be available. Mist daily with dechlorinated water.



Housing/Habitat: They should be housed in a tall, humid tropical terrarium with branches and leaves to simulate an arboreal habitat. The terrarium must be well ventilated and humidity should be kept around 80%. Ventilation can be controlled through the use of a screen aquarium top and an air pump to run fresh air into the terrarium. Humidity can be controlled with frequent misting and a glass canopy partially covering the screen.

[JasonL]

Originally Posted by meshe1969

Besides the Chloris care sheet above, some people keep them with caruleas, so they are not that dissimilar.

hahaha, I tried that, untill one of my GTF's to a liking to Chloris flavour They are very different to keeping GTF's, needing a more constant, lower temp, of around 25 with a high humidity. I always tell people, if you let some GTF's go inside a large room and put a coffee cup of water in the middle of the room, they will find it. If you put some red eyes in a dry four foot tank, and put a coffee cup of water in the middle, they will dry up on the side of the tank and die before looking for water.

[meshe1969]

Originally Posted by JasonL

hahaha, I tried that, untill one of my GTF's to a liking to Chloris flavour They are very different to keeping GTF's, needing a more constant, lower temp, of around 25 with a high humidity. I always tell people, if you let some GTF's go inside a large room and put a coffee cup of water in the middle of the room, they will find it. If you put some red eyes in a dry four foot tank, and put a coffee cup of water in the middle, they will dry up on the side of the tank and die before looking for water.

Have you considered writing a care sheet? If you do let me know if I can put it up on frogs.org.au. You seem to have a lot more success with them and have done so for a while.

[JasonL]

I'd love to find the time, I would love to write care sheets for a few Sp I have kept and done well with, but times the killer atm. I no longer keep many frogs due to time restraints, breeding the huge no of redeyes last year took it toll.

[Tatelina]

Originally Posted by JasonL

I'd love to find the time, I would love to write care sheets for a few Sp I have kept and done well with, but times the killer atm. I no longer keep many frogs due to time restraints, breeding the huge no of redeyes last year took it toll.

I'd donate some of my time if I could! I think your caresheets would be great!