V.Tristis

[mr burrito = god]

Has anyone had any expeirence with these great goanna's? If so please tell me about it as I am hopefully getting one for my sister for her Birthday.
Cheers.

[mr burrito = god]

bump

[MrBredli]

Don't get it if she expects to be able to handle it. They are very nervous and skittish creatues, generally speaking.

[gillsy]

What about Gillens MrB

Mr Burrito - I'm getting gillen's and have been told they're great for beginners

[mr burrito = god]

yeah, definantly, more of an animal that i have just wanted to admire. we have a beardie for handling, he is friendly as hell, so its fine
cheers

[MrBredli]

In that case, good choice! I'm sure you will enjoy the pleasure of keeping V. tristis.

[mr burrito = god]

cheers,
do you have any expierience with them?
much appreciated.

[MrBredli]

None at all!

[mr burrito = god]

cheers anyway mate

[MrBredli]

There's plenty of info on the net. Goggle Varanus tristis and see what you come up with.

[raptor]

Great little first monitor

[Simon_Archibald]

I have kept and bred these monitors. They are a wonderful species but as has been said they are not an animal to be handled. They have an excellent set of chompers and they know how to use them. Also, generally speaking, they have very sharp claws (because they are very arboreal in habit) and inflict excellent cuts when picked up.

Many people keep adult pairs in 4ft x 2ft x 2ft enclosures. Minimum I have housed them in is 6 x 2 x 2ft and they bred in that same enclosure. I found though that they were much more active and less skittish when I moved them to a much larger, taller enclosure. This measured 5ft x 5ft x 5ft.

Basking temperature should be up around 55 degrees, higher is OK. An ambient temperature of 20-25 degrees is ideal. No, they will not cook or die at 55+ degrees, but ensure that they can move to a cool area at any time.

Typically the enclosure should be fairly dry. I housed my animals on dried sand with plenty of branches and hollow logs. Logs were just big enough so the animals could squeeze in and feel very secure. I placed in freshly cut leafy branches of native tree species for visual appeal as well as providing smells, textures and new hide spots that would be otherwise unavailable. When the leaves dried out too much, I would strip them and scatter them around the enclosure floor...just adds to the diversity of the habitat you create.

Water was available every 3 days. I would place an empty water bowl in the cool end of the enclosure and fill it by pouring the water in with a jug. The splashing sound generally stimulated a drinking response, as it usually did with most of my monitor species. Water bowl was removed at "lights out".

Diet is varied. I fed suitably sized mice, rats, quail, chicken breast, roaches, crickets, giant moths and other insects.

As with all monitors, these animals are QUICK and agile. Your best option is an enclosure with top access rather than doors at the front. Otherwise, they may just run past you and straight out of the house. All monitors are escape artists and every possible escape route should be investigated and dealt with BEFORE you get the lizard...otherwise you might not have the lizard for long.

Let me say once again...55+ degrees is a desirable basking temperature. Do not let anybody tell you it is too high and don't be fooled. This will not cook your animal. The old 35 degrees dragon basking temperature is not adequate for these animals. I use100watt reflector globes to achieve this (and much higher) temperatures. Of course though, use common sense and ensure adequate ventilation and a cool end to the enclosure are supplied.

Best of luck and make sure you post photos...

[MrBredli]

Awesome reply Simon, you're a great asset to this community.

[Simon_Archibald]

Thanks MrB....I appreciate that.

[Tristis]

here are some of mine