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  #16  
Old 10-Oct-07, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Khagan View Post
Ok well that makes it a bit difficult i guess, has its eyes gone milky lately? Have you contacted the person you got it off and asked when it last shed and fed so you can start keeping record?

Hopefully someone with a bit more knowledge will speak up and help you out.
Will do that right now - Thanks Khagan
 
  #17  
Old 10-Oct-07, 07:52 PM
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Firstly get the poor thing some heat (heat cord or heatmat will do the job-im not from QLD so im not sure what the temp's are like-without heating) and go from there and best to get a thermometer/thermostat,
cheers,
brad

*cant help you out with the infection sorry*
 
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  #18  
Old 10-Oct-07, 08:05 PM
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G'day mate,

As you would know, reptiles can't produce their own body heat. If you aren't supplying an external heat source, the snakes body temperature is at the mercy of the ambient temperature, which most of the time will be below what it requires. Just like us, if their body temperature is too low, it means that their immune system isn't performing to its potential and is therefore leaving the animal susceptible to disease.


There are several care sheets for Carpet Pythons online, and several books available as well. Check out www.ultimatereptiles.com.au and www.mikeswanherpbooks.com for products and books, do a bit of research and get your pet into a properly designed and fitted out enclosure.

Cheers,

Jonno
 
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  #19  
Old 10-Oct-07, 08:15 PM
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ok thanks everyone. Ive also noticed that she sounds like she is trying to whistle sometimes. What is with that?
 
  #20  
Old 10-Oct-07, 08:29 PM
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As already mentioned, get a heat source first and foremost. Without knowing what your enclosure is made of, you will need to have an edison (screw in) light fitting (ceramic) mounted on the celing at one end of your enclosure. Then get a ceramic heat emitter, depending on the size of the enclosure, but I would suggest a 100w should do you in Yeppoon. Then get a protective mesh cover to put over the whole thing, so your snake doesn't burn itself on the exposed heat source. I would also suggest you have the heat source wired to a thermostat and have it set at about 32c.

Respiratory Infection or RI can kill your snake, it is a serious problem. The symptoms often don't show until the snake is well and truly in the grips of RI. Symptoms will be discharge from the nostrils, you will often see bubbles, mucous in the snake's mouth and a discolouration of the mucous membranes in the mouth also. You often see the snake rubbing its head a lot also with RI. It will most probably also refuse food.

I don't mean to sound like a smart !!!!! here, but you really need to do some research and get yourself up to speed on keeping herps, which in a way you are doing here by asking Q's.

Anyway, I hope that helps, if you have any doubts, take your snake to a vet who has experience dealing with herps.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 
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  #21  
Old 10-Oct-07, 08:37 PM
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My snake has none of those symptons but she rubs her head but when she does it she is trying to get up the wall of the tank onto a ledge and the top. Also she sounds like she is trying to whistle.
 
  #22  
Old 10-Oct-07, 09:03 PM
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dude a snake can get a respiratory infection from exposure to extreme heat and not being able to cool down
i had a python come down sick with a respiratory infection from this
if you suspect an infection you must see a vet as if there left too long they sometimes dont respond to treatment and can die
 
  #23  
Old 10-Oct-07, 09:04 PM
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but a loose nasal scale can give the impression of congestion in the snakes airway
ive had this happen before aswell
 
  #24  
Old 10-Oct-07, 09:07 PM
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how can i check for a loose scale?
 
  #25  
Old 10-Oct-07, 09:09 PM
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Also how much will it cost to get her looked at by a vet?
 
  #26  
Old 10-Oct-07, 09:27 PM
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Normally about $60.00 depending on vet

What sort of day temps are you getting ?
 
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  #27  
Old 10-Oct-07, 09:30 PM
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I doubt not enough heat is the problem here... Central Qld temps would be easily in the low 30s by day now - my herp room is usually sitting at about 32 by day now. Great for my pythons but a nightmare when it comes to dealing with milii, spinipes etc...
 
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