Recent Herp Discussion | | | | | | | |  | | 
09-Oct-07, 09:13 AM
|  | Subscriber | Join Date: Jan-03 Location: Cairns | | | I'm going to build some new cages, I'm going to use plywood with a nice finish and varnish them up.
My plan is to make 6x2x2's and divide them in two for the stims and leave them as one for the bredli and waters.
I'd like to use frameless glass or perspex doors and have them hinge downwards, but I'm not sure of the cost / practicality of this. Any one done it or have any knowledge? I've seen smaller cages done with frameless perspex in the US, they just bolt the hinges to the perspex.
I'd also be interested if anyone has a cut list, i can work my own out but it's be nice to be able to double check before paying up.
Because the stim cages will have a divider, I'm thinking 15mm ply will be plenty strong enough not to bow (there'll be a piece at the top and bottom at the front for strength / dooring).
Cheers and Beers
Magpie
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09-Oct-07, 09:20 AM
|  | Regular Member | Join Date: Jun-07 Location: near brisbane Gender:  | | | | door that hinge at bottom will get in the way imo, and are you able to get 15mm ply up there ? I can only get thickness of 6mm, 12mm and 18
good lick with the project | 
09-Oct-07, 09:33 AM
|  | Subscriber | Join Date: May-06 Location: QLD Age/Gender: 33  | | | | We built our enclosures with the doors opening upwards & lockable hinges, we tried experimenting a bit with the doors opening down but because i'm quite short I couldn't reach the back of the enclosures for cleaning.They are a 3 bank of 4x2x2. | 
09-Oct-07, 09:49 AM
|  | Subscriber | | | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Magpie I'd like to use frameless glass or perspex doors and have them hinge downwards, Cheers and Beers
Magpie | i hinge my doors down, lots better then having to chain them up, they just drop down out of the way..........
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09-Oct-07, 01:44 PM
|  | Subscriber | Join Date: Jan-03 Location: Cairns | | | | Yeah, that's the plan Steve.
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09-Oct-07, 02:08 PM
|  | Regular Member | Join Date: Mar-06 Location: Brisbane Age/Gender: 23  | | | | I dont think you would get away with using perspex without a frame around it with such a large size. It would actually be possible to bend the perspex slightly to make it more rigid but it would be a lot of mucking around and would be very easy to stuff up. You might also get away with using thick perspex 8-10mm but that would be very heavy and expensive and may not be any good(maybe?)
Personally i would go for perspex with a small metal frame around it to stop it distorting. You need to be careful drilling perspex with a standard drill bit as it can crack pretty easy. There are special bits designed for drilling perspex that would probably be worth buying. | 
09-Oct-07, 02:24 PM
|  | Subscriber | | | | the trick i was told about with perspex was to leave the paper/plastic cover on it until after you drill the holes,
just a couple pics of my doors,
another option, but this shows you the way they will drop down out of the way, 
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09-Oct-07, 02:26 PM
|  | Subscriber | | | | | the first one we used self tapers, the second one we drilled and nailed........
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09-Oct-07, 02:41 PM
|  | Necker Cube Subscriber | Join Date: Feb-07 Location: NSW | | | | 15mm is a standard size for Plywood. There are a couple of different grades however I haven't had any issues with ply bowing over 4' so you shouldn't have too much of an issue over 6' with centre support. I also use a single side piece with a 5mm deep channel routed in for the floors/ceilings on mine which seemed to provide adequate strength (my 4x2x2 horizontal enclosure was tested with 20kg downward weight on floors and ceilings with no noticeable bowing).
I generally paint the inside of my enclosures with solid colour and therefore use CD grade plywood with the C side (better grade) on the outside. This gives me the ability to patch and hide the open defects on the D side. | 
09-Oct-07, 03:01 PM
|  | Regular Member | Join Date: Jun-07 Location: near brisbane Gender:  | | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Chimera 15mm is a standard size for Plywood. There are a couple of different grades . | just got onto the company (sharps plywood)and yes your right  and i was very wrong  you would think that as a tradie cabinet maker I should know this  | 
09-Oct-07, 03:15 PM
|  | Subscriber | Join Date: Jan-03 Location: Cairns | | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Chimera
I generally paint the inside of my enclosures with solid colour and therefore use CD grade plywood with the C side (better grade) on the outside. This gives me the ability to patch and hide the open defects on the D side. |
I've been quoted a price on BB exterior 15mm ply. I have to go down and make sure it looks nice enough to be furniture in my house.
Steve, the quebloc frame is a good idea.
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09-Oct-07, 03:31 PM
|  | Subscriber | | | | they are a great way to build a light and easy enclosure, the finished cage............. 
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09-Oct-07, 03:36 PM
|  | Subscriber | Join Date: Oct-06 Location: north coast NSW Age/Gender: 24  | | | | they look really good Steve - how long did it take to make them? | 
09-Oct-07, 03:39 PM
|  | Subscriber | Join Date: Apr-07 Location: Between here and there. Age/Gender: 31  | | | | ...... thinks Ponybug should go into making enclosures.......
they look great
Mrs I
xxx
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09-Oct-07, 04:33 PM
|  | Subscriber | | | | pm sent, don't want to hi-jack magpies thread,
free bump................ 
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