First snake advice?

[Bung-Eye]

Hey people. I'm just about a week and a half to two weeks away from getting my first snake. Have loved snakes all my life, but unfortunately haven't ever been in a situation where i've been able to own my own (read: family & ex had huge morbid fears of snakes).

Anyway I'd pretty much made up my mind that I wanted a diamond python or a bredli. I only discovered this site maybe a week or two ago, and since finding it have spent many hours browsing the forums for information ultimately leaving me with a few questions before I pick out my new family member.

I know the two are great pets etc, which in your opinion is a better snake for a complete beginner? As stated i've never owned herps before, and would like a relatively "low maintenance" snake for my first shot so I can get it right; wouldn't want to hurt the little guy!

Open to other suggestions, however not particularly interested in antaresia's.. (stimpsons, spotteds etc)

Also:
How long (typically) does the shedding process take? I've learned that their eyes turn kind of milky and they will be off food? can anyone confirm this?


Thanks
-Bung

[snake whisperer]

hi bung,

im just getting my first snake too...a really good book that answered all of my questions is one called ''keeping childrens pythons''...there is a whole series of these'' keeping reptile'' books available through ebay or at reptile parks....

good luck with your first snake

kane

[Auzlizardking]

What is the best first snake?
You must first decide a few basic things:

How large you would like the python to be when fully grown
How much are you looking to spend
Is it for show only or is it a pet to be handled from time to time.
Here is a rough outline of what I think are some of the better pythons for first timers.

Species Fully Grown Size (m) Average Price Price Low Price High Pet Store Price
Childrens Python 1.2 $150-$260 $150 $400 $300
Spotted Python 1.5 $150-$260 $150 $400 $300
Stimson's Python 1.0 $200-$280 $200 $500 $350
Centralian Carpet Python 3.0 $290-$390 $250 $1100 N/A
Diamond Python 2.1 $380-$480 $300 $1200 N/A
Coastal Carpet Python 3.3 $100-$250 $100 $1000 N/A
Murray Darlings 2.4 $150-$250 $150 $600 N/A
Darwin Python 2.4 $150-$400 $150 $600 N/A

There are many other pythons available but these are the basics. This is just a rough guide of prices; the high end price is due to locality, colours, and patterns. Morph’s can fetch much higher prices than most other pythons and I have not priced them here as morph prices usually go into the thousands, morph’s are pythons like the albino, or have different markings than normal.

Some species are available through pet stores, but other reptile specific stores can sell many other species and prices will vary from store to store, and state to state as laws, rules, and regulations differ. Some python can live for more than 25Yr’, so they are a long term pet. Be sure that you can fit an enclosure into your home that can to fit your python when fully grown. It is sometimes more convenient to purchase an older python, as you no they are feeding well, and can see there temperament. But it can be a lot pricier. A hatchling can be hand reared and can grow with you starting out in a small enclosure which can be easier on the wallet for starting out. There end enclosure should be half there length, by quarter of there length, by quarter of there length minimum. Larger the better in the end, as they will appreciate the room when fully grown.

[edit]Purchasing Your First Python
When purchasing your first python you should take great care in choosing. You should ensure that the python is feeding well, if in doubt, ask to come on a feeding day to see it being feed. This will also show you how to feed the python as well. With your python you should get a feeding, Shedding, and maybe even a defecation history. You would not be out of line to ask to see the parents. You can then see what markings the parents have and there temperament. Also check the snake over and handle it a little, as hatches they may be feisty and bite but it doesn’t hurt, it’s more a shock the first time. If something look’s wrong with the python, there probably is. Follow your instincts with health, regardless of what you are told be the seller.

[edit]What enclosure do I keep a hatchling in?
Hatchlings are usually kept in click-clacks. Clic-clacks are small plastic tubs available at most hardware stores, supermarkets, etc. It is just any reasonable sized container with a locking lid that has no gaps where a python might be able to get out. Pythons are professional escape artists so you must ensure that there are no gaps and they can not force the lid off, you would be surprised by there strength. If they can get there nose into a space they will force there head through and will have no problem getting the rest of there body’s through. You will need to ensure that there is sufficient ventilation by making small holes in the enclosure; I usually just drill a number of strategically placed holes. A heat mat is the best heating for a hatchling/juvenile in my opinion as it is cheaper, and is less prone to overheating than heat cord, and lamps in a click clack can be very difficult to mount. The heat mat should cover around 1/3rd the flooring of the click clack and not more than half the flooring space. It should also be fastened to the underside of the click clack at one end. This allows a heat gradient, from one end to the other. Your aim should be to have a warm end of approx 30-32 degrees Celsius, and a cool end of around 24 degrees Celsius the python can then move between the warm area and cool areas to self regulate its own temp. You will need to use some type of flooring on the bottom of the enclosure, I would suggest absorbent paper, or news paper to start off as it is cheap but professional floorings are available. You will also need at least 2 hides, more if you like, they will appreciate places to hide. You will need 1 hide in the warm area and 1 hide in the cool area. Sufficient water supply is also required. Remember that from time to time they may choose to curl up in there water bowl so you will regularly need to check there water.

I personally scrunch up some newspaper and then pull it out a little to put in there enclosure so that they can hide in amongst it and slither against it. They are best kept on there own in these enclosures.

The exception to this is the diamond python because it requires UVA and UVB light (sun light). This can not be achieved through glass as the glass filters out the much needed UV light. Although a diamond python can be kept like this, it requires a regular dose of sunlight each day for at least 1 hr a week, or UVA/UVB producing lights in its enclosure. There temps are much cooler than most other Aussie pythons with a warm end at 27degrees Celsius, and a cool end of 20 degrees Celsius.

[edit]How often can I handle my snake?
While they are young I would say no more than 15-20min, 4-5 times a week. Over handling them can stress them out to much and can result in feeding problems and death. As they get older they can be handled more frequently and for longer durations. After purchase of a python I try not to handle my pythons for 1-2weeks to let them settle into there new environments. After this time I feed them wait a few days after feeding and then start handling them. Avoid handling them during shedding as it is a difficult time for them, and it can split the shed making it more difficult to shed there entire slough (Old Skin) complete.

[edit]What can I feed my python?
Captive pythons are mainly feed a diet of frozen rodents, mice, rats, and rabbits being the most common. It is advised that frozen or pre killed prey be feed to your pythons as many accidents have happened where the mice or rats have killed or damaged the python. A python can eat prey up to 3 times the size of there head and it is advised to feed them prey approx. 2 times the size of there head. Part of a pythons growth requires that they eat this large prey so that they dislocate there jaws, and the skin at the front of the jaws learns to stretch. A young python should be feed approx every 7-14 days and as they get older it should become less frequent. Adult pythons should be feed approx every 3-4 weeks. Over feeding can lead to pin head syndrome (That is where there body continues to grow but the head does not) and obesity. Obesity in snakes causes many health related issues. This can be very detrimental to there health and a sever diet would be recommended. Some people choose to give there pythons treats from time to time. Chickens, or pieces of chicken uncooked, fish, and raw meat, are the most common.

[edit]Why won't my snake feed?
Most pythons will not feed when coming up to a shed, or when stressed. Firstly don’t panic, and don’t stress, pythons can go for prolonged periods without feeding without any long term damage. An adult python can go for several months or more without feeding and younger pythons can easily go for 4-6 week’s. If they are due for a feed but refuse when offered wait another week and try again. If you notice they are coming up to shed it is likely that they will refuse food until the shed is complete. After they have shed they will be very hungry and will often take multiple rodents. If they have gone 2 weeks past there feeding due date and are not showing signs of shedding a few things to try are:

Braining: force a pin or sharp object through the skull of the rodent until juice comes out the snake will quickly pick up on the smell.
Hide and Wait: leave the rodents at the entry to there hide, close the enclosure and come back in the morning. Often the rodent will be gone in the morning.
Chicken Soup/Stock: dipping the rodent in chicken stock
Skink Scenting: putting a skink and the rodent in a container together so the rodent takes on the smell of a skink.
Check your temps
Try leaving it alone for a few days prior to feeding and just place it in the enclosure and leave it alone.
Do not attempt to force feed your python unless you are experienced. Force feeding should only be attempted by experienced vets and keepers.
Stimulate a feeding reponse by gently rubbing the food item behind it's neck.
For more information, see also Getting Hatchlings to Eat.

[edit]Why is my python not shedding correctly?
Pythons will shed their skins on a regular basis, it is part of there growth cycle. There are many signs of shedding they are:

White eye’s
Flaky skin
Dry skin
Milky colour
Dull colouring on the skin
Sitting in water bowl.
Most of the time pythons will shed an entire skin complete. From time to time this will not occur and some level of assistance will be needed by the owner/carer. During times of shedding it is advisable that you raise the humidity within the enclosure to assist them. Misting an enclosure with a spray bottle, and moving a water bowl over a heat source should help raise humidity. Sometimes dry flaky skin will remain attached you should not pull it off as you may do the python damage. Using a wet tea towel, let your python slither through the tea towel moistening the snake and allowing the python to remove its skin on the tea towel. If this is not working you can soak your python in luke warm water. The water should only be slightly above room temperature. Your python might freak out a little at first but let it swim around a little and it should settle down. A plastic fish tank with a clip on lid is perfect. Do not leave your python alone in the water as there is always the possibility they might drown. You can also add something for it to rest on as this may help keep stress to a minimum. Some pythons will enjoy it so much you will have problems removing them from the water. Many pythons will also put there heads under the water and search the bottom of there pool this is normal. Another way, if the python continually tries to get out of the water, is to soak a large towell so it is dripping with water, and 'plaster' it around the walls, then put the snake in, and leave it in there for a while, do not leave it alone as it will try to escape.

[edit]How can I sex my python?
Sexing Pythons should only be done by experienced breeders and vets. It is not something that should be attempted by recreational reptile keepers. If you must know, take it to a vet, no matter how many tutorials there are on the internet telling you how to, you can seriously damage a python this way.

[edit]Can I keep more than one snake in an enclosure?
There is much debate on whether or not you can keep pythons together in an enclosure. For most of the Antaresia Species it is not a problem as long as they are of similar size, age, and species. Diamonds, Green Tree pythons, Murray Darlings, and Coastal pythons have also been known to co-habitate happily. This is in no way a guarantee that things won’t go wrong between these species. There are always risks involved in keeping pythons together there are many story’s of pythons turning on cage mates and eating them. Keeping males together may also cause them to fight, and do damage to one another or kill each other. If you do choose to keep pythons together remember to feed them separately and clean them before putting them back into the same enclosure. If feed together they can start eating the same prey, and one may eat the other, it comes down to who gets their jaws over the top of the other first, and they will just continue to eat the other python. Don’t feed your pythons together.

[edit]Can I use real plants in my enclosure?
Real tree limbs and rocks make good features and are good for your pythons climb on. They also provide abrasive surfaces to shed against and provide places to sleep, bask, and hide. Things like these need to be treated. Rocks can be baked in an oven (For A Short Time!(too long and it may explode)) to kill ticks, viruses, and bacteria found on these item. You can also treat them with a product known as F10 which is a designed product to treat bird and reptile items. If this is unavailable then a 1/10 mix of bleach can be used, and then rinsed clean with water. Try to find out if the plant could be toxic before putting if in with your much loved reptile

[edit]What kind of diseases can my snake get?
There are 3 major diseases that are causing concern amongst the herp community they are OPMV, IBD and Diamond Python Syndrome. Here is a brief description of the symptoms would be. Respiratory problems laying on side/back panting having problems breathing, starry eyed look and convulsions. This is a deadly and highly contagious disease; any python found with these symptoms should be quarantined, taken to a vet and reported. Pneumonia is a more common problem amongst beginner reptile keepers. It is caused by stress, cold, and high humidity. Respiratory problems can also occur and are diagnosed by a clicking or wheezing noise whilst breathing. They will also try to take the weight off of there lungs by lying on there sides, or backs. Ticks and mites also can harm your pythons and would show up between there scales. A regular check of your python should find most ticks and mites. Ticks and mite’s can be easily treated using “Top Of Descent”. Remove the water dish, leave your python in the enclosure and mist the enclosure thoroughly without directly spraying your python. Replace water dish 1 hour after spraying. Repeat process three days later, and again 1 week later to ensure all eggs have been killed. Diamond python Syndrome is a disease we know little about, the python begins to lose the ability to move properly, and becomes 'Floppy'.

If your python begins to show ANY of these symptoms, immediately take them to a vet, and ask their advice on quarrantine and treatment.

[edit]What kind of substrate should I use?
There are many different flooring substrates available. Here are a few of the Pros and cons of some of the more common types available.

Astroturf: Although it is good looking, it can be very sharp, and has the ability to cut the cloaca causing problems for your python. It also tends to come apart over time when regularly washed.
Newspaper: A very cheap and easy sub straight, easy to replace, lacks in the looks department. Good for large numbers of enclosures.
Chip Bark: Looks good but tends to smell. Have also seen a few pythons consume some of the bark which can give them a splinter in the gut or cloaca.
Gravel: Looks good easy to clean, can be eaten by your python though and block there digestive system.
Marine Carpet: Looks good, needs a bit of a scrub to get clean, but most users of marine carpet switch a new carpet for the old. Highly recommended, but can be costly.
Breeder’s Choice/Kitty Litter: Okay looking, very easy to clean and replace. The paper absorbs everything and should do no harm to the python if swallowed. Highly recommended.
[edit]What are some good books to get started with?
The Keeping Series
What’s Wrong With My Snake
Care of Australian Reptiles In Captivity
Retrieved from "http://www.aussiepythons.com/wiki/index.php/Frequently_Asked_Questions"

[grimbeny]

I have a bredli and couldnt recomend them highly enough. They are great feeders and almost always calm down with a bit of handling. Not to mention they look great!!!

I have never owned a diamond but they dont deal with being indoors so well, and can develop diamond python syndrome (which the cause of is still kind of unknown). Although alot of people keep them without either of these worries.

Whatever your choice is im sure u wont be dissapointed. Good luck!

[mungus]

Originally Posted by Auzlizardking

What is the best first snake?
You must first decide a few basic things:

How large you would like the python to be when fully grown
How much are you looking to spend
Is it for show only or is it a pet to be handled from time to time.
Here is a rough outline of what I think are some of the better pythons for first timers.

Species Fully Grown Size (m) Average Price Price Low Price High Pet Store Price
Childrens Python 1.2 $150-$260 $150 $400 $300
Spotted Python 1.5 $150-$260 $150 $400 $300
Stimson's Python 1.0 $200-$280 $200 $500 $350
Centralian Carpet Python 3.0 $290-$390 $250 $1100 N/A
Diamond Python 2.1 $380-$480 $300 $1200 N/A
Coastal Carpet Python 3.3 $100-$250 $100 $1000 N/A
Murray Darlings 2.4 $150-$250 $150 $600 N/A
Darwin Python 2.4 $150-$400 $150 $600 N/A

There are many other pythons available but these are the basics. This is just a rough guide of prices; the high end price is due to locality, colours, and patterns. Morph’s can fetch much higher prices than most other pythons and I have not priced them here as morph prices usually go into the thousands, morph’s are pythons like the albino, or have different markings than normal.

Some species are available through pet stores, but other reptile specific stores can sell many other species and prices will vary from store to store, and state to state as laws, rules, and regulations differ. Some python can live for more than 25Yr’, so they are a long term pet. Be sure that you can fit an enclosure into your home that can to fit your python when fully grown. It is sometimes more convenient to purchase an older python, as you no they are feeding well, and can see there temperament. But it can be a lot pricier. A hatchling can be hand reared and can grow with you starting out in a small enclosure which can be easier on the wallet for starting out. There end enclosure should be half there length, by quarter of there length, by quarter of there length minimum. Larger the better in the end, as they will appreciate the room when fully grown.

[edit]Purchasing Your First Python
When purchasing your first python you should take great care in choosing. You should ensure that the python is feeding well, if in doubt, ask to come on a feeding day to see it being feed. This will also show you how to feed the python as well. With your python you should get a feeding, Shedding, and maybe even a defecation history. You would not be out of line to ask to see the parents. You can then see what markings the parents have and there temperament. Also check the snake over and handle it a little, as hatches they may be feisty and bite but it doesn’t hurt, it’s more a shock the first time. If something look’s wrong with the python, there probably is. Follow your instincts with health, regardless of what you are told be the seller.

[edit]What enclosure do I keep a hatchling in?
Hatchlings are usually kept in click-clacks. Clic-clacks are small plastic tubs available at most hardware stores, supermarkets, etc. It is just any reasonable sized container with a locking lid that has no gaps where a python might be able to get out. Pythons are professional escape artists so you must ensure that there are no gaps and they can not force the lid off, you would be surprised by there strength. If they can get there nose into a space they will force there head through and will have no problem getting the rest of there body’s through. You will need to ensure that there is sufficient ventilation by making small holes in the enclosure; I usually just drill a number of strategically placed holes. A heat mat is the best heating for a hatchling/juvenile in my opinion as it is cheaper, and is less prone to overheating than heat cord, and lamps in a click clack can be very difficult to mount. The heat mat should cover around 1/3rd the flooring of the click clack and not more than half the flooring space. It should also be fastened to the underside of the click clack at one end. This allows a heat gradient, from one end to the other. Your aim should be to have a warm end of approx 30-32 degrees Celsius, and a cool end of around 24 degrees Celsius the python can then move between the warm area and cool areas to self regulate its own temp. You will need to use some type of flooring on the bottom of the enclosure, I would suggest absorbent paper, or news paper to start off as it is cheap but professional floorings are available. You will also need at least 2 hides, more if you like, they will appreciate places to hide. You will need 1 hide in the warm area and 1 hide in the cool area. Sufficient water supply is also required. Remember that from time to time they may choose to curl up in there water bowl so you will regularly need to check there water.

I personally scrunch up some newspaper and then pull it out a little to put in there enclosure so that they can hide in amongst it and slither against it. They are best kept on there own in these enclosures.

The exception to this is the diamond python because it requires UVA and UVB light (sun light). This can not be achieved through glass as the glass filters out the much needed UV light. Although a diamond python can be kept like this, it requires a regular dose of sunlight each day for at least 1 hr a week, or UVA/UVB producing lights in its enclosure. There temps are much cooler than most other Aussie pythons with a warm end at 27degrees Celsius, and a cool end of 20 degrees Celsius.

[edit]How often can I handle my snake?
While they are young I would say no more than 15-20min, 4-5 times a week. Over handling them can stress them out to much and can result in feeding problems and death. As they get older they can be handled more frequently and for longer durations. After purchase of a python I try not to handle my pythons for 1-2weeks to let them settle into there new environments. After this time I feed them wait a few days after feeding and then start handling them. Avoid handling them during shedding as it is a difficult time for them, and it can split the shed making it more difficult to shed there entire slough (Old Skin) complete.

[edit]What can I feed my python?
Captive pythons are mainly feed a diet of frozen rodents, mice, rats, and rabbits being the most common. It is advised that frozen or pre killed prey be feed to your pythons as many accidents have happened where the mice or rats have killed or damaged the python. A python can eat prey up to 3 times the size of there head and it is advised to feed them prey approx. 2 times the size of there head. Part of a pythons growth requires that they eat this large prey so that they dislocate there jaws, and the skin at the front of the jaws learns to stretch. A young python should be feed approx every 7-14 days and as they get older it should become less frequent. Adult pythons should be feed approx every 3-4 weeks. Over feeding can lead to pin head syndrome (That is where there body continues to grow but the head does not) and obesity. Obesity in snakes causes many health related issues. This can be very detrimental to there health and a sever diet would be recommended. Some people choose to give there pythons treats from time to time. Chickens, or pieces of chicken uncooked, fish, and raw meat, are the most common.

[edit]Why won't my snake feed?
Most pythons will not feed when coming up to a shed, or when stressed. Firstly don’t panic, and don’t stress, pythons can go for prolonged periods without feeding without any long term damage. An adult python can go for several months or more without feeding and younger pythons can easily go for 4-6 week’s. If they are due for a feed but refuse when offered wait another week and try again. If you notice they are coming up to shed it is likely that they will refuse food until the shed is complete. After they have shed they will be very hungry and will often take multiple rodents. If they have gone 2 weeks past there feeding due date and are not showing signs of shedding a few things to try are:

Braining: force a pin or sharp object through the skull of the rodent until juice comes out the snake will quickly pick up on the smell.
Hide and Wait: leave the rodents at the entry to there hide, close the enclosure and come back in the morning. Often the rodent will be gone in the morning.
Chicken Soup/Stock: dipping the rodent in chicken stock
Skink Scenting: putting a skink and the rodent in a container together so the rodent takes on the smell of a skink.
Check your temps
Try leaving it alone for a few days prior to feeding and just place it in the enclosure and leave it alone.
Do not attempt to force feed your python unless you are experienced. Force feeding should only be attempted by experienced vets and keepers.
Stimulate a feeding reponse by gently rubbing the food item behind it's neck.
For more information, see also Getting Hatchlings to Eat.

[edit]Why is my python not shedding correctly?
Pythons will shed their skins on a regular basis, it is part of there growth cycle. There are many signs of shedding they are:

White eye’s
Flaky skin
Dry skin
Milky colour
Dull colouring on the skin
Sitting in water bowl.
Most of the time pythons will shed an entire skin complete. From time to time this will not occur and some level of assistance will be needed by the owner/carer. During times of shedding it is advisable that you raise the humidity within the enclosure to assist them. Misting an enclosure with a spray bottle, and moving a water bowl over a heat source should help raise humidity. Sometimes dry flaky skin will remain attached you should not pull it off as you may do the python damage. Using a wet tea towel, let your python slither through the tea towel moistening the snake and allowing the python to remove its skin on the tea towel. If this is not working you can soak your python in luke warm water. The water should only be slightly above room temperature. Your python might freak out a little at first but let it swim around a little and it should settle down. A plastic fish tank with a clip on lid is perfect. Do not leave your python alone in the water as there is always the possibility they might drown. You can also add something for it to rest on as this may help keep stress to a minimum. Some pythons will enjoy it so much you will have problems removing them from the water. Many pythons will also put there heads under the water and search the bottom of there pool this is normal. Another way, if the python continually tries to get out of the water, is to soak a large towell so it is dripping with water, and 'plaster' it around the walls, then put the snake in, and leave it in there for a while, do not leave it alone as it will try to escape.

[edit]How can I sex my python?
Sexing Pythons should only be done by experienced breeders and vets. It is not something that should be attempted by recreational reptile keepers. If you must know, take it to a vet, no matter how many tutorials there are on the internet telling you how to, you can seriously damage a python this way.

[edit]Can I keep more than one snake in an enclosure?
There is much debate on whether or not you can keep pythons together in an enclosure. For most of the Antaresia Species it is not a problem as long as they are of similar size, age, and species. Diamonds, Green Tree pythons, Murray Darlings, and Coastal pythons have also been known to co-habitate happily. This is in no way a guarantee that things won’t go wrong between these species. There are always risks involved in keeping pythons together there are many story’s of pythons turning on cage mates and eating them. Keeping males together may also cause them to fight, and do damage to one another or kill each other. If you do choose to keep pythons together remember to feed them separately and clean them before putting them back into the same enclosure. If feed together they can start eating the same prey, and one may eat the other, it comes down to who gets their jaws over the top of the other first, and they will just continue to eat the other python. Don’t feed your pythons together.

[edit]Can I use real plants in my enclosure?
Real tree limbs and rocks make good features and are good for your pythons climb on. They also provide abrasive surfaces to shed against and provide places to sleep, bask, and hide. Things like these need to be treated. Rocks can be baked in an oven (For A Short Time!(too long and it may explode)) to kill ticks, viruses, and bacteria found on these item. You can also treat them with a product known as F10 which is a designed product to treat bird and reptile items. If this is unavailable then a 1/10 mix of bleach can be used, and then rinsed clean with water. Try to find out if the plant could be toxic before putting if in with your much loved reptile

[edit]What kind of diseases can my snake get?
There are 3 major diseases that are causing concern amongst the herp community they are OPMV, IBD and Diamond Python Syndrome. Here is a brief description of the symptoms would be. Respiratory problems laying on side/back panting having problems breathing, starry eyed look and convulsions. This is a deadly and highly contagious disease; any python found with these symptoms should be quarantined, taken to a vet and reported. Pneumonia is a more common problem amongst beginner reptile keepers. It is caused by stress, cold, and high humidity. Respiratory problems can also occur and are diagnosed by a clicking or wheezing noise whilst breathing. They will also try to take the weight off of there lungs by lying on there sides, or backs. Ticks and mites also can harm your pythons and would show up between there scales. A regular check of your python should find most ticks and mites. Ticks and mite’s can be easily treated using “Top Of Descent”. Remove the water dish, leave your python in the enclosure and mist the enclosure thoroughly without directly spraying your python. Replace water dish 1 hour after spraying. Repeat process three days later, and again 1 week later to ensure all eggs have been killed. Diamond python Syndrome is a disease we know little about, the python begins to lose the ability to move properly, and becomes 'Floppy'.

If your python begins to show ANY of these symptoms, immediately take them to a vet, and ask their advice on quarrantine and treatment.

[edit]What kind of substrate should I use?
There are many different flooring substrates available. Here are a few of the Pros and cons of some of the more common types available.

Astroturf: Although it is good looking, it can be very sharp, and has the ability to cut the cloaca causing problems for your python. It also tends to come apart over time when regularly washed.
Newspaper: A very cheap and easy sub straight, easy to replace, lacks in the looks department. Good for large numbers of enclosures.
Chip Bark: Looks good but tends to smell. Have also seen a few pythons consume some of the bark which can give them a splinter in the gut or cloaca.
Gravel: Looks good easy to clean, can be eaten by your python though and block there digestive system.
Marine Carpet: Looks good, needs a bit of a scrub to get clean, but most users of marine carpet switch a new carpet for the old. Highly recommended, but can be costly.
Breeder’s Choice/Kitty Litter: Okay looking, very easy to clean and replace. The paper absorbs everything and should do no harm to the python if swallowed. Highly recommended.
[edit]What are some good books to get started with?
The Keeping Series
What’s Wrong With My Snake
Care of Australian Reptiles In Captivity
Retrieved from "http://www.aussiepythons.com/wiki/index.php/Frequently_Asked_Questions"

Hang on, ill go and make a cup of tea first.............lol........

[Logan & Allana]

Originally Posted by Bung-Eye

Hey people. I'm just about a week and a half to two weeks away from getting my first snake. Have loved snakes all my life, but unfortunately haven't ever been in a situation where i've been able to own my own (read: family & ex had huge morbid fears of snakes).

Anyway I'd pretty much made up my mind that I wanted a diamond python or a bredli. I only discovered this site maybe a week or two ago, and since finding it have spent many hours browsing the forums for information ultimately leaving me with a few questions before I pick out my new family member.

I know the two are great pets etc, which in your opinion is a better snake for a complete beginner? As stated i've never owned herps before, and would like a relatively "low maintenance" snake for my first shot so I can get it right; wouldn't want to hurt the little guy!

Open to other suggestions, however not particularly interested in antaresia's.. (stimpsons, spotteds etc)

Also:
How long (typically) does the shedding process take? I've learned that their eyes turn kind of milky and they will be off food? can anyone confirm this?


Thanks
-Bung

Both species are great snakes to own and both have there faults. As a beginner I would say Bredli, they are a lovely snake, very realiable feeder. Diamonds are also nice and can easily be kept but you would be better off getting a little more experienced first and save yourself drama's down the track (I'm sure you'll have many more snakes to come after this one ). As for shedding well first they go dull (can last a week or so) then there eye's go cloudy (this lasts a couple of days) then there eye's will go clear again and then ruffly a few days later they shed. I haven't given exact dates as each snake depending on a few things may differ. Make sure you show pics once you get your new snake

[Zanejb]

i find the shedding Process from start to finsih is ruffly a week give or take a few days. i have both Diamonds and bredli and they are both good snakes. Ive found diamonds to be easier to tame (if not already prittygood) and bredlis a little more bity. Also the Bredli gows larger than the diamond so if you would like a snake that doesnt grow too big on ya go with the diamond. I like the colours of my Bredlis over the diamonds (i have both classic and hypo bredlis) but the high yellow diamonds are fantastic (i have 1 lol) over all these snakes are both great and itll be a matter of choice as to which you want. but youll be happy with either one trust me lol

[Christian75]

Bung, you've got a hell of a response there!!. We got our first, and so far, only snake around this time last year. We were also tossing up between a Diamond and Bredli but ended up going for the Diamond.

I can't speak highly enough of this breed. Not that I've lived with any others but we picked up our DP from a local breeder at around 2 months. We handled her immediately and she has never missed a feed - except when shedding. She has never biten or even hinted at it. In fact last week I had her out to feed her and she started shedding in my hands!! Not even the slightest bit cranky.

Anyway, we were only ever going to get a species that had a reputation for being calm and I can say that we hit the jackpot. Daisy the DP is 15 months old now and I can't wait to see what she developes into as an adult. There's been some recent postings of some truly massive DP's well over the 10ft mark and I hope if ours ends up that big she stays as calm as she is now.

Good luck with whatever you get. Go with your gut and you'll have no regrets.

PS - DP Syndrome is apparently conquered by using UV cage lighting and allowing them to cool slightly during the winter months. Different people seem to have different opinions but our breeder does this and he's never had a problem.

[grimbeny]

I might add that my Bredli did bite for the first six months of having her, but the bites of a young snake are really nothing to worry about, a six foot python mightnt go down to well though.

[Miffy]

I have a Bredli and a Diamond Python.

Diamond Pythons have to be kept in a different manner to other pythons to prevent them getting Diamond Python Syndrome. (make sure you read all about it before you buy one).

Which is better? Well depends which you like more. Both of mine are very placid and have never even tried to bite.

But my heart lies with Diamonds (Sorry Bert)

[bredli84]

both are great snakes, but the bredli seems to be more trouble free. they come from a harsh environment and seem to be able to tolerate a range of conditions. they also dont get DPS (diamond python syndrome).
my first snake was a bredli, she was about 6months old and has been very easy and rewarding to look after. heres a pic http://www.aussiepythons.com/gallery...2_itemId=61892

[Surfcop24]

Hey Bung... Can I ask where you are from??

I know someone with the name BUNG... because of a Bung Eye...