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  #1  
Old 06-May-08, 08:39 PM
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gecko racks

ok so i got some gecko racks from ikea and i have a 6m, 50w heat cable going along the back.
someone else with this same design has it working fine and i am wondering why mine wont heat good.
it will only get to about 23*C on the side the heat cable is on.
any tips?
thanks,
sam


 
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Old 06-May-08, 08:46 PM
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Cord needs to be in contact with the tub.
 
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Old 06-May-08, 08:51 PM
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it does touch it at the back
its just not in that pic cause i had to move it to take it
 
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Old 06-May-08, 08:55 PM
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You have got to be joking. Asking 50 watts to heat in that huge room. You'll need to close inaround the tub so any heat is directed to the tub rather than just drifting around the room. With three tubs you actually have about 17 watts per tub which sould only lift that size insulated container about 10 degrees above the ambient temp.
 
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Old 06-May-08, 09:00 PM
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Have you checked the temps while substrate is in it? I heap the sand at the back to about 15cm deep then slope it forwards, that way the sand is coming into contact with the back which is the part of the tub being heated. I have to admit, with the cooler weather it isn't heating as much as it was during summer. There is still a thermal gradient, but overall temperatures are down slightly. I'm not worried about that though because I was going to start cooling them anyway.

Oh, and as wokka said, closing in the sides will boost the temps a lot.
 
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Old 06-May-08, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wokka View Post
You have got to be joking. Asking 50 watts to heat in that huge room. You'll need to close inaround the tub so any heat is directed to the tub rather than just drifting around the room. With three tubs you actually have about 17 watts per tub which sould only lift that size insulated container about 10 degrees above the ambient temp.

Not to mention that the way the cord is set up only 1/4 or less of it would actually come into contact with the tub, it runs on an angle front to back.
Also, what type of geckos? No point in heating the whole back of each tub for terrestrials.
 
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Old 06-May-08, 09:03 PM
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yeah i was thinking that 50w wasnt enough
its just that someone told me it would be fine.
how many watts would you think i would need?
or would it be fairly impossible to do it?
thanks,
sam
 
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Old 06-May-08, 09:04 PM
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or is there any other way i could heat them?
thanks,
sam
 
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Old 06-May-08, 09:15 PM
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Your Lesueurs are locals so they should tolerate the temps in your area. Not sure about the others but you may be able to focus the heat cord a bit more on them, if they need it. Someone on here may be able to answer whether or not it would be safe to put a sheet of foil behind the cord to reflect heat towards the tubs. I only have Lesueurs and am in Sydney so haven't used any heat yet. I have a heat mat ready to go if I need it, My setup has dipped to 14 overnight and they are still running around feeding and doing their acrobatics. Remember, a "cool" season is part of the lifestyle for Sydney-endemic gex.
 
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Old 06-May-08, 09:21 PM
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yeah the racks are ment to be for my levis
my lesueurs already sit with no heating
 
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Old 06-May-08, 10:02 PM
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Yes the cord needs to be in direct contact with the tub and the tub needs to have a sand substrate to draw in the heat. I've posted this link several times and I must say they have worked absolutely fine for me in an unheated garage in Sydney throughout the year. The bigger tubs have bred heaps of N.levis and the smaller ones are now nearly full with young. My suggestion is to use the rack for storing your reptile bits and pieces (it aint going cut the mustard) and use the heat cord for another project.

Gecko ghettos
 
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  #12  
Old 06-May-08, 10:26 PM
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how do you attach the heat cord to the hatchie racks in this photo: http://www.aussiepythons.com/forum/a...1&d=1187505513
do you just stick it to the parts of the rack that doesnt slide out?
thanks,
sam
 
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Old 06-May-08, 10:46 PM
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The same as in the first photos. Glue with liquid nails to the track underneath the tub (the bit that doesnt move) on one side and at the back. Feed up to the next layer (may require the drilling of some holes) and repeat. There's enough 'free movement' to still allow the draw to be moved back and forth. It may be tight at first but with time it becomes more easy.
 
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