Heating options

[nickamon]

Hi everyone,

newbie here. I'm getting a Stimson's python in a month, and I've got a few questions about heating and lighting options for the tank. My partner and I are building the tank, which is going to be 900mm high, and 800mm wide and deep. I'm not sure about the heating and light requirements for a tank of that size. We'll definitely use a UV tube, and we're tossing up between using a heat mat and a heat globe.

What wattage would you guys recommend for UV light, heat globes and heat mats in a tank that size? (Note that I'm not asking about ceramic emitters because they seem rather pricey and apparently cost a lot to run.)

What's the most effective and economical way to heat a tank? Is it possible to heat a tank with a heat mat alone? One option we're considering is to have a heat globe as well as a heat mat, and run the globe during the day and the mat at night. We won't do it that way if there's a better alternative.

We want to connect the UV light to a timer. Are there any timers you would recommend?

We'll also need a thermometer for the tank and a thermostat for the heat source. Are there any brands you would recommend?

Many thanks! Nickamon

[cris]

To start with all you need is a click clack(small plastic tub, that has a clamp down lid) and a 4m 15 watt heat cord, Assuming you are getting a hatchling this will last a year and then it will be time to move it into its large enclosure. Heat cords cost $20 + postage from www.herpshop.com a click clack type container should cost around $10 from woolies.

UV isnt that important for these snakes so you dont really need it in their enclosure.

[Mrs Mac]

i use only a red bulb on a thermostat for heating in a lot bigger enclosure then yours. like cris said uv isnt important and depending on where you live unless its really cold then you might need a heat mat but fot a tank your size you proberly wont need one of those either.

[cougar]

try some zoomed or exoterra globes for quality or just coloured globes for budget about 60watt
if your enclosure has more than 1 light fitting(ceramic) and it depends how cold it gets were you are trial and error to find a stable temp not extreme ups and downs. 28 - 32 for a stimmi.
I live in the nt so no lighting/heating required for the day but i use an exo terra nightlight(deep blue colour) to stay around 26-28 for my NT childrens with a microclimat b1 thermostat. I also used 2 down lights for effect to show off to friends but they pump the heat 35-40 stable after an hour but they look goodPC221351.JPG

[Mrs Mac]

i use thermostat plus its about $80 to $100 depends where you get it and ive just hooked it up to a 150w red bulb thats on 24/7 the thermostat turns it on or off when needed to keep good temps 32c hot end 28 cool end the bulb in is one end of the tank so you get a good gradient. and the red bulb doesn't disturb your snakes day night cycles.

[SlothHead]

A little tip,

i wouldnt be hooking any incandecent bulbs up to a pulse thermostat unless you are prepared to be replacing your bulbs regularly.

I would probably recommend having the longest edge of your tank as the bottom length. They arent the biggest climbers, and so more surface floor area is more important.

The way i set up all my antaresia tanks is as follows.

I use a UV fluoro, generally 18" and a 75W basking white light. These are both on a timer and run for about 12hrs a day.

I also run a heat mat 20w on a thermostat, (generally a pulse ) thermostat. That is on all the time. The temp on that is set at 24 degrees.

The idea is that you create a thermal gradient in the tank. They will regulate them selves

That is the main reason why i wouldnt recommend a click clack either. Granted clicks clacks are good for short term usage, ie sick animal, or short term storage. but i always try and steer clear of them

oh and on a side note, a thermal gradient of 32-28 is not that great

A good gradient is some where hot- warm i.e. 34-36, and a cool end 18-20

The way i set mine up is that in the basking position it is about 34-38 depending on how close they want to get, the heat mat provides an area in the bottom that is 24 all the time, so at night the temps are 24 at this area.

Then in the cool end, it is generally 20-22 in the day, depending on ambient temps in the house and at night it is about 18 in the cooler end.

Sorry for the long windedness of the reply

D

[cougar]

"i wouldnt be hooking any incandecent bulbs up to a pulse thermostat unless you are prepared to be replacing your bulbs regularly."

my thermo the microclimate (b1 I think) is the dimming model not pulse, to extend the life of the bulbs.

but good point if you do buy a microclimat thermostat read the lable and make sure you get the right won for the job.

[SlothHead]

Yeah i was actually refering to Mrs Mac,

yeah if you are going to use incandecent bulbs, i would use a dimming thermostat. having said that, i dont. my incandecents are on a timer. (and on an external thermostat - that is a fail safe though)

Oh by the way. There are alternatives.

For example, Rob (True Blue) doesnt use anything like this and just uses a simple 40w or 60w blue light bulb. So there are options.

Cheers

D

[Australis]

Hi Nickamon,

Take Cris's advice, start off keeping it in a Tub, with a simple heat mat or heat cord under part of the tub floor, running on a thermostat will be fine.

If you choose to do this, just make sure the tub is totally escape proof

[Mrs Mac]

oh ok whats a pulse thermotstat? the red bulb i use is a exo terra and the guy at the pet store said it should last 6months or more and if it doesnt then to bring it back for replacement.

[mertle]

I tend to go with We Have It All about the size of your floor space, Stimmis don't climb much at all and so there is no real need for the hight you have and it will only need more heating.

I use Heatmats for mine but she is in a click clack but won't be for long, Makes it very hard to have a grdaient in the weather we are having in SA at the moment.

In a normal enclosure I would go with TRUEBLUE and have just the party globe of 40-60 watt depending on size of cage.

THAT SAID!

I have heard of breeders that have their Stimmis in a 2ft tank with just a low wattage globe during the day and no heating at night, they say that the snake doesn't have a heat sourse on at night in the wild and temps in a house are not as cold as in the bush, but don't take my word on this!!!!

I hope that mess helps you out! hehehehe

Stimmi's are cool

[SlothHead]

well thats good, a pulse thermostat, like the thermostat plus that you have, is a thermostat that turns on and off as it reaches the temp.

So, if the temp is set at X degrees, once that temp is reached, the thermostat turns the heating unit off, whether that be a heat mat, or light bulb whatever

A dimming thermostat on the other hand lows the power to that heating unit thus lowering the heating output.

The pulse thermostat will come back on once the temp has moved away from the X temp by a certain amount.

so its as though you are turning the power on and off to the bulb 50 or 100 times duing that day, which shortens the life dramatically.

[SlothHead]

Yeah mertle that is my issue with click clacks.

Becuase they are such small areas, they are hard to produce decent thermal gradients.

Better clarify what i consider a click clack, any container up to about 7 or maybe 10 L depending on the shape

I have been using some 40L and 60L tubs even 20 L tubs, and depending on the wattage of the heating element, you can attain some decent thermal gradients.

How is SA at the moment. havent been that way for a while

[Mrs Mac]

oh ok thanks so where can i look at getting a dimming thermostat? are they expensive?

[mertle]

SA is good thanks, We Have It All!

Hot! at the moment, but good, we are on water restrictions now, only so much to go around!

I am waiting for the shops and breeders to have the new hatcies here ready for sale. I'm getting a new Maccie this year, I hope!!