 Recent Herp Discussion | | | | | | | | Online Users: 139 | | 73 members and 66 guests | | $N@K3$, ad, Adictv, ally_pup, ambrose, andyscott, animal_lover, Aslan, aussie.snakes, Australis, bow2theone, buddie, bundy_zigg, butters, centralian11, clippy, cockney red, cracksinthepitch, DDALDD, della91, denno, dickyknee, dtulip10, Duke, eddy9898, firezone1au, fishead, footsoulja, funcouple, grimbeny, Hetty, hodges, imalizard, itbites, J3ss_, Jewly, JoeBlakes, juliedamian, Kyro, LullabyLizard, McBoob_Inc, miley_take, Minka, Mitch Kelly, mrboajangles, MzSel, Nikki_Elmo, No-two, nuthn2do, paleoherp, porkosta, pythonmum, RICK.T, scorps, Shanno, snakecharma, SPOTTEDMAC, Stark, stencorp69, TheBoga, tryme1108, TURBO8, varley, VinceFASSW, w3ap0n, Whisper2, wokka | |  | | 
03-Mar-08, 09:57 PM
|  | Subscriber | Join Date: Nov-05 Location: melbourne | | | |
Thanks haz, so basically your running just the 88watt panel and that does the job very well.
Are you using them in your RSP set ups?
Cheers, James
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03-Mar-08, 10:00 PM
|  | hazz Subscriber | Join Date: Jul-06 Location: Hazzardous area Gender:  | | | |
Yes have them in 1 lot but the others are still set up with ceramics and incadescent.
88W is perfect for 5ft by 2ft by 2ft aboreal species. If you want extra heat for terrestrial species i would go 110W in a 5ft by 2ft by 2ft sp you can rev up the heat when required, I think thats what Neph does!
Cheers
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04-Mar-08, 01:53 AM
|  | Regular Member | Join Date: Jul-06 Location: Perth Age: 22 | | | |
obviously you use them with thermostats to control the enclosure temp, but does the surface get warm enough to burn the snake if it touches it???
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04-Mar-08, 02:01 AM
|  | Roadkill Subscriber | Join Date: Aug-05 Location: Western Sydney Age/Gender: 25 | | | |
I used the ones from the Herp Shop (well never actually did because...) the surface did get very hot. The Pro-Heat ones apparently do not get overly hot on the surface so they are much better suited for the job.
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04-Mar-08, 06:15 AM
|  | Subscriber | Join Date: Dec-05 Location: God's great garden | | | |
I've been using several of the 50 watt Herp Shop heat panels for some years. These are in cages that are 1200X600X600.
They are great, the snakes soon find the branch where the heat is. As a controller I use a dimming t/stat.
With regard to a thermal gradient, it something I've never been all that concerned about. I use peg board on the back of the cages so there is always heaps of ventilation.
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04-Mar-08, 06:21 AM
|  | Subscriber | Join Date: Dec-06 Location: Grafton Age/Gender: 36  | | | |
How do they work. Are they different to heat mats?
I have most of my enclosures on just normal globes. I have my spotteds on a heat mat, and I am very dubious of it as the extra terro one I had caught on fire. Luckily my snakes were not hurt.
Can someone give me the link to the website, so I can look myself
Thanks
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04-Mar-08, 06:22 AM
| | hazz Subscriber | Join Date: Jul-06 Location: Hazzardous area Gender: | | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Reptilian  obviously you use them with thermostats to control the enclosure temp, but does the surface get warm enough to burn the snake if it touches it??? | No they won't burn a snake, the heat is spread over a large surface and the panels are pro-heat panels are thermally designed to prevent this and aditionally there is very little for them to cling to. I have never seen one of the snakes even try.
As mentioned these are a big hit for chondros in the states!
Cheers
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04-Mar-08, 06:23 AM
|  | herp addict Subscriber | Join Date: Mar-07 Location: werribee Age/Gender: 19 | | | Quote:
Originally Posted by GraftonChic How do they work. Are they different to heat mats?
I have most of my enclosures on just normal globes. I have my spotteds on a heat mat, and I am very dubious of it as the extra terro one I had caught on fire. Luckily my snakes were not hurt.
Can someone give me the link to the website, so I can look myself
Thanks | i posted it above  |
04-Mar-08, 06:24 AM
| | hazz Subscriber | Join Date: Jul-06 Location: Hazzardous area Gender: | | | Quote:
Originally Posted by alex_c | The link is 2 posts above yours. Basically they are a square panel that contains a heating mechanism right throughout as so the heat is dispersed evenly. They generally sit on the roof or walls of an enclosure.
Cheers
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04-Mar-08, 06:37 AM
| | Sponsor | Join Date: Jan-06 Location: Newcastle | | | |
I've got 100watt Aussie made ( herp shop) in 900w x 600h x 600d melonite cages for GTP's conected to a pulse proportional. It works fine , provides a gradient but 100w is overkill. On my other cages I use a 25 watt red globe, with no thermostat, on a 8 foot cage which gives a 35 degree hot spot under the globe down to ambient ( which is now getting down to 20 C at night)at the cool end. The 8 foot cages cost about $12 plus labour for heat. The heatpanels plus thermostat about $250 but you cant achieve a gradient in a small cage without a thermostat. If you have the space use it without thermostats and give the animals a choice. Part of the $12 goes towards a plastic srew on 200mm light shade which I use as a light guard. I ahve only used them for 12 minths with large olives and blackhead and they are surviving but I fear they may become brittle with age and constant use. With a 40watt globe they get about 40c on the surface of the shade.
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04-Mar-08, 07:22 AM
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I make my own heat panels from heat cords of various wattages depending on the size of enclosure I want to heat.
I weave the cord of whatever wattage I need onto 25mm x 25mm welded mesh, frame it with narrow timber battens, cover with black or green shadecloth (50% or less, this is very heat resistant, and doesn't come into actual contact with the heatcord anyway) and attached either on the ceiling or the wall of the enclosure.
The open structure of these panels provides very good circulation (no hot spots develop) and the shadecloth never gets very hot, so it doesn't matter if the snake lies in directt contact with it for a period of time.
I have been doing this for 6 years now, have never had one fail, never had a burn, or any problems whatsoever. Because the cords are waterproof the panels can be misted without fear of shorting them out, and the shadecloth holds a bit of moisture for a few minutes until it evaporates, ensure a quick rise in humidity. I do this especially when I see or expect a snake to shed.
So... you can make your own very effective heat panels for less than half the cost of those commercially available in Oz...
Anybody who is interested - I have some photos of the process, pm me with your email addresses and I'll shoot some to you (not sure about posting photos here!)
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07-Mar-08, 01:07 PM
|  | Sponsor | Join Date: Mar-06 Location: Brisbane | | | |
Very true, it isn't difficult. One drawback though is you'd transfer alot of heat to the enclosure above unless you mounted it on a backing board or something.
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08-Mar-08, 05:58 PM
|  | Subscriber | Join Date: Jun-07 Location: Newcastle Age/Gender: 25 | | | |
Hey all! Good timing with this thread for me. I have recently been in contact with pro products in NY enquiring about their heat panels. They advised me to use little to no ventilation in my enclosures and also to insulate the floor of my enclosures because my house gets pretty cold in winter not being on a slab. They also advised me the on which heat panel to use for each particular application I requested. Do the people who use proheat panels use any ventilation in their enclosures if so could you please explain where the vents are positioned?
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08-Mar-08, 07:01 PM
| | hazz Subscriber | Join Date: Jul-06 Location: Hazzardous area Gender: | | | |
2 vents half way down the back wall. If you get closable vents you can control as you wish!
I belive these panels work perfectly in a stack situation. The panel from below provides a nice warm area on the floor above. The reptiles tend to sit here a lot.
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