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22-Jul-08, 08:47 PM
|  | Friend of huey Subscriber | Join Date: Feb-07 Location: on the coast Gender:  | | | |
Gday. I use the pro heat panels from the states. 55w 240 volt, It is cheaper here to buy the 240 volt unit then to buy a voltage adapter.
These panels can get hot to touch but they don't have the capacity to burn skin on contact, you feel its hot and move off it.
Temps- temps measured are with a habistat pulse proportional thermostat holding 26 degrees in the middle of a 600 x 600 x 600.
1. surface temperature = 68 degree
2. 150mm below = 35deg
3. 300mm away = 25-26 deg
4 floor temp away from influence of panel in cage below = 24 deg.
I really like these units and recommend them. they are bolted up to the roof/ ceiling of enclosure and the snakes have no "toe hold" anywhere so cannot constantly be touching them. I have seen them nose up to it but it does not burn or worry the animal at all and they are quite content to lie on branches below the panels.
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the only good cat, is the one in the snake.
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25-Jul-08, 11:18 PM
| | Regular Member | Join Date: Mar-08 Location: Brisbane | | | |
I was going to start a new thread but on second thought this may be a better place to ask in so as to help keep information in one place...
...anyway, for those of you using heat panels already, is there any thermostat types that you have found don't work well with them? I guess what I am trying to find out is are they compatible with dimming thermostats (I have a spare one somewhere, hehe) or should I look at running it off of a different type of thermostat instead?
Thanks, Jan
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26-Jul-08, 09:35 AM
|  | Subscriber | Join Date: Jun-07 Location: Newcastle Age/Gender: 25 | | | |
Hi Zuyax. I use microclimate B1 dimming thermos with my pro-products heat panels. They work extremely well. The only ones I would stay away from are cheap on/off thermostats. Hope this helps.
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26-Jul-08, 08:30 PM
| | Subscriber | Join Date: Jul-07 Location: CQld Gender: | | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Pythoninfinite  I make my own heat panels from heat cords of various wattages depending on the size of enclosure I want to heat.
I weave the cord of whatever wattage I need onto 25mm x 25mm welded mesh, frame it with narrow timber battens, cover with black or green shadecloth (50% or less, this is very heat resistant, and doesn't come into actual contact with the heatcord anyway) and attached either on the ceiling or the wall of the enclosure.
The open structure of these panels provides very good circulation (no hot spots develop) and the shadecloth never gets very hot, so it doesn't matter if the snake lies in directt contact with it for a period of time.
I have been doing this for 6 years now, have never had one fail, never had a burn, or any problems whatsoever. Because the cords are waterproof the panels can be misted without fear of shorting them out, and the shadecloth holds a bit of moisture for a few minutes until it evaporates, ensure a quick rise in humidity. I do this especially when I see or expect a snake to shed.
So... you can make your own very effective heat panels for less than half the cost of those commercially available in Oz...
Anybody who is interested - I have some photos of the process, pm me with your email addresses and I'll shoot some to you (not sure about posting photos here!) | Made one today 50w heat cord working GREAT!!!!
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26-Jul-08, 09:20 PM
| | Regular Member | Join Date: May-07 Location: Western NSW Gender: | | | Quote: |
...anyway, for those of you using heat panels already, is there any thermostat types that you have found don't work well with them? I guess what I am trying to find out is are they compatible with dimming thermostats (I have a spare one somewhere, hehe) or should I look at running it off of a different type of thermostat instead?
| Hi Zuyax,
I use Habistat 600W dimmers. I have quite a few heat panels now & would never go back to lights as a single heat source. (Also use a I/R bulb in some as a second basking spot.)
I use a habistat dimmer on each bank of three, which have air gaps between each cabinet so I don't get hotter temps in the top deck. This is wired in series through a IMIT wall thermo which is set as an emergency cut-off in each cabinet. That way if there is a major failure in the "master" cabinet then the imit will cut off heat in each unit if temps get too high. Nothing like peace of mind!
The IMITs will last forever 'cos they will never reach cut-off temp under normal circumstances & therefore the points won't arc & burn.
Col J.
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27-Jul-08, 01:07 AM
| | Regular Member | Join Date: Mar-08 Location: Brisbane | | |
Thanks guys, that answers my question perfectly. Clever thinking with the IMITs there too Col, I'll keep that in mind.
Jan  |
03-Sep-08, 03:53 PM
|  | the one and only... Subscriber | Join Date: Aug-08 Location: Gladstone, QLD Gender:  | | |
awesome thread....getting a bredli soon and was looking into heating and I can't afford new bulbs every 2 weeks/months. I'm convinced and am buying one once I settle on the set up
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