Substrate temperatures.

[cracksinthepitch]

Just wondering if anyone measures and records their substrate temps?
The reason i ask is that my enclosure for my spotted has red desert sand as sub, and there are temperature variables around the enclosure. As an air con mech i have 4 different temp recorders in the enclosure (overkill) but there are differences from end to end which is good to allow the python to regulate its own temp by moving around etc. also as heat rises i decided to insulate the enclosure to keep the heat in(its cold in melb at present) with rubber waffle pad, also installed a smoke detector above just in case. What is the correct substrate temp for my spotted. She seems to be happy and active at night and also very fast moving. Any feedback would be appreciated.

[cracksinthepitch]

Quasi Bump, The diet coke of bump, mini bump , man im bored

[ponybug]

i'm not really certain, but i'd imagine it would need to be around the 28 to 32 degs, any hotter might burn her,

my mate controls his sand temps for his geckos and thats appox the temps he aims for,

[cray]

Hi cracksinthepitch, I have got a pair of spotteds, 8 months old, about 60cm long and 60g.

I'm trying this in my clickclacks for my 2 spotteds.

I have a 2 location thermometer from the herp shop and drilled holes in each end to put the sensors through on one clickclack.

At the cool end i just sit it on the top of the substrate, about 1cm thick.
At the hot end i have put a bit of foam around the sensor and it is buried in the substrate.

Hot end runs 27-30 night, to 32-33 day.
Cool end 15-20 night, 20-25 day.

I use a B1ME with the sensor wrapped in some paper towel and sitting on the Heat pad between the two clickclacks.

Don't forget to monitor humidty as well, if your putting in heat the air can dry out, I keep mine at about 60-75% - a water bowl close to the warm end helps.

I have noticed that to get 32 on the surface of the substrate I need about 34-35 from the heat mat.

I figure that pythons lay on the substrate, so that temp is more important than the air temp.

To get air temp up to 32-33, you would need much hotter floor temps.

You may already have a non contact thermo - but if ya don't Dick Smith has some basic ones for $39 - bargain 6-1 spot ratio and +/- 2%.

In the summer the temps in my enclosures were 35-37 and they didn't seem to suffer.

Basically it I have read if you go 20-25 cool end and 30-34 hot end they will work it out.

Geez I've been ravin on!

[PhilK]

I wouldn't think that substrate temps are all that important? I've never heard of people measuring them.

[cracksinthepitch]

Awesome response Cray, thats what i was looking for . for a ground dwelling python i assume air temp is useless if the substrate temp is incorrect. if the sub is too cold and as heat rises from your globes the snake may be too cold. Im using 2x digitemps(refrigeration stats) a bulb t stat and the a slow herp thermocouple. My air temp gets to 33.c in middle of enclosure and 28.c at cool end. Sub temp is at 29.c at hot end and 26.c at cool end . Water bowl(150x100) 1cm deep filled is on half way mark. She is pretty active at night and im hoping i have this set up correct!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[herpsrule]

at the moment i dont have a thermometer, or a thermostat for my click clack. its on 2 lines of 15watt heat cord at its hot end just under its hide box, and the other end is its water bowl. do you think i should move its water bowl closer to the hot end to move up the humidity level? ive had the snake since wednesday and apart from being abit edgy when i change the water bowl or go near the lid, george seems to be settling in well, and the box setup seems fine at the moment. sorry to hijack the thread, but i found it pointless to create another thread on basically the same thing. thanks regards,

Nat

[cracksinthepitch]

Maybe you need to buy a thermo-hygro meter from dick smiths or the like. I assume that having a water bowl in the enclosure(with water in it) ensures that the humidity will be over 50% as the water will evaporate due to the heat, but by evaporating it will increase the humidity. if it is moved to the warmer end it will evaporate faster and should increase the humidity levels. To what amount it changes could be a good experiment. Keep an eye on the water level and make sure it doesnt get too hot as they like to cool of in the water. I havent measured the humidity yet but i will now.

[herpsrule]

yer the no thermostat/thermometer thing is only temporary for now till i get my large enclosure. that would be a great experiment, i'll play around with it to see what happens. cool thanks for your response

[cray]

cracksinthepitch, sounds like ya got it covered, just check the temp at the hotest place in the enclosure that they can get to - on the floor/substrate at the hot end (if ya got a heat mat) or on the highest branch nearest the globe if running heat lights. That should be no hotter than about mid 30's.

All reptiles do absorb heat from above as well, so you may find that the snakes temp is above the substrate temp in your case - using lights. I have measure mine and with an air temp of 25, they will have a surface temp of 28.

I forgot to mention I am using a heat mat, no lights.
I am using an Exo Terra Desert Medium but its wound back to about 1/2 by the thermostat.
My air temp sits at about mid 20's and my two are still eating regular and growing quick - have a hide at each end so thay they can rest in the cool or the heat.

If ya get real obsessive get a non contact thermo and check the python when they are resting, you can take a direct measurement of the animal, or move your thermometer sensor into the hide where they rest.


herpsrule, I'm a long way from an expert yet, but if you have the water at the cool end it can still dry out a bit, the best way is to get some sort of humidity monitor in there.


If they can live under a log in the winter (<10 deg) and cruse around on hot roads & rocks in the summer at night (mid 30's at 9pm) they must be tougher than us.