Woma Care Sheet Needed Please

[Umbral]

Thanks , which type is afforable but good quailty ??( thermostat) and i have a flurosecent light and an red heating globe socket, all i need i think is thermostat, thermoter, red globe heat mat, water bowl substratee and yeah i think thats it. Is that correct ??

Thanks

This might sound basic but it's worth mentioning. Make sure your lights have cages around them to stop your snakes coming in contact with the globe.

While womas arnt the worlds best climbers they do still do it and without cages lights are a hazard.

[thomasssss]

This might sound basic but it's worth mentioning. Make sure your lights have cages around them to stop your snakes coming in contact with the globe.

While womas arnt the worlds best climbers they do still do it and without cages lights are a hazard.

thats one i forgot , yes cages around any globes even ones that are just for viewing and don't produce heat , if they coil around it they could break the globe

[rvcasa]

it said page not found sorry

There's an 'F' missing at end of that link...
It should end in PDF.

I'm now using a brand new thermostat I got on ebay for $12 (incl. delivery) and it does the same job as my old $45 one!

The same for infrared bulbs initially I paid $30 and now Reptile One are 8 bucks for a 75W.
A ceramic batten holder is $10 if you shop around.

I use red desert sand as substrate.
(Bunnings has river sand for around $
Once dried, the desert sand becomes quite compact, easier to clean as its not loose sand and so it doesnt go everywhere.

My Woma likes to rub its mouth/chin against it after a meal.
It's really cool watching it 'crane digging' with its head.

As I handle it often, so it never defecates inside.

I personally think it looks apart!
(as I also have mini Spinifex grass, red rock and a hollow log)


P.S. I got rid off my ceramic heat emitters - I hate them!

They get extremely hot, they're way overpriced and dry up the air inside enclosure.
Unlike IR bulbs, they don't seem to throw heat as far down the floor of enclosure, so the top of enclosure is all bent/bow from excessive heat and floor not so hot...

My personal experience and therefore preference, btw.

Good luck.


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Are wall thermostats good ??

They're dying out...

Best is a dimming thermostat!


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[Bigchewy]

Type in aspidites ramsayi on google and u see PDF that's tells whole thing a lot better then others

[WomaBoy]

thanks! do i need a heaat mat or will the red light be good enoughh ??

[rvcasa]

thanks! do i need a heaat mat or will the red light be good enoughh ??

Initially, when I first got my Woma, 2 breeders told me they should have heat all year round when they're young...

That means heat mat and infrareds (or similar) and therefore keep feeding through winter as well (proving temps are hight) for the first 2 years, although some snakes may refuse food in winter earlier, when they're 1 or so, which is not a worry.

When they're older and not so shy, you may only need an IR as they'll come out of their hide more often to bask under the IR!

From my research, up in QLD, where winter is warmer, (adult) Womas are kept at higher temps, than SA.

SXR's enclosure drawing on care sheet is not 100% correct for Womas... He used a drawing for his other adult snakes that need higher humidity - that's why the water bowl is on the hot side, but should be placed on the cool side instead (unless necessary during shed)

Here's another graphic from Pythons1:


As you can see on this example, it has 2 hides, more suitable for young and shy snakes.

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[Bigchewy]

I have woma I use 35watt downlight hoalgen 12v light or u can use 240v 35watts hoalgen downlight for basking at day and 35 watt heat mat for floor heating under tile controlled by thermostat works well but everybody setup is different depend how long u want them to last I leave heat mat on all the time

[WomaBoy]

Initially, when I first got my Woma, 2 breeders told me they should have heat all year round when they're young...

That means heat mat and infrareds (or similar) and therefore keep feeding through winter as well (proving temps are hight) for the first 2 years, although some snakes may refuse food in winter earlier, when they're 1 or so, which is not a worry.

When they're older and not so shy, you may only need an IR as they'll come out of their hide more often to bask under the IR!

From my research, up in QLD, where winter is warmer, (adult) Womas are kept at higher temps, than SA.

SXR's enclosure drawing on care sheet is not 100% correct for Womas... He used a drawing for his other adult snakes that need higher humidity - that's why the water bowl is on the hot side, but should be placed on the cool side instead (unless necessary during shed)

Here's another graphic from Pythons1:


As you can see on this example, it has 2 hides, more suitable for young and shy snakes.

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Thaanks

I have woma I use 35watt downlight hoalgen 12v light or u can use 240v 35watts hoalgen downlight for basking at day and 35 watt heat mat for floor heating under tile controlled by thermostat works well but everybody setup is different depend how long u want them to last I leave heat mat on all the time

Hoalgen ???

[Rob72]

You are aware that woma's are known to have a propensity to just "latch on and have a munch" while being handled ? Given your concern about being bitten by a hatchie Childreni, this is probably something you should know.

[rvcasa]

I have woma I use 35watt downlight hoalgen 12v light or u can use 240v 35watts hoalgen downlight for basking at day and 35 watt heat mat for floor heating under tile controlled by thermostat works well but everybody setup is different depend how long u want them to last I leave heat mat on all the time

Do you mean halogen?

I never used them with any of my pets or even at home... (only scuba diving and that was many years ago) I don' think they produce enough heat for a reptile enclosure and they're way too bright!

What do you use at night time?

[Ramsayi]

Do you mean halogen?

I never used them with any of my pets or even at home... (only scuba diving and that was many years ago) I don' think they produce enough heat for a reptile enclosure and they're way too bright!

What do you use at night time?

Halogens work great.I have been using 50W halogens for years and they throw a heap of heat easily giving a 35c basking spot at a distance of 600mm.Snakes don't seem to mind them either,albinos included.

[Bigchewy]

U can spray the lights with engine heat spray blue red or black I haven't tried that yet I wonder if someone already done it

[Rob72]

U can spray the lights with engine heat spray blue red or black I haven't tried that yet I wonder if someone already done it

I was doing this around 10 years ago to save money on buying the IR globes. It worked OK, although they didn't tend to last any longer than the IR globes, just much cheaper. There was no light at all though - the paint is so thick no light gets through - just heats up. Red, Blue, Black makes no difference - It didn't change the colour of the light emitted (just blocked it out), and I can't imagine the paints of today would be any different.

I wouldn't do it again, as I prefer to be able to see the light - it's a quick indicator of a blown bulb for a start, but I guess it is an option if someone wants to do it on the cheap.

I would let the paint dry, then run the globes outside for an hour or so to eliminate the fumes.

[Bigchewy]

I saw one at bunnings they have red light but it got aluminum coating back of the halogen I thought it might give focus heat on one spot instead of fanning out worried might burn on one spot of the snake skin .wonder if u guys have experience about aluminum coating halogen downlights?

[rvcasa]

... I guess it is an option if someone wants to do it on the cheap...

An infrared from Reprile One costs 8 bucks, how much cheaper is the paint?


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