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Under weight Stimson
We have two adult Stimson ( about 6+7 yrs old) They have bread once before this about 4 years ago and none of the eggs hatched. They have bread again and had 13 babies, 2 didn't mature out of eggs and 1 not long after that.)
Story so far:
We have 5 month old baby Stimson. They won't eat by them selves and are force fed, I use the end of a small spoon and have used a lot of different meats.I try to go no bigger than their widest part. They look at pinkies but won't eat. We have recently seen other 5 month old snakes which drew my attention to just how under sized ours are.The one we saw matches most Internet pics of standard, not sure of length but round like a Artline 700. Ours are about 36 cm long and round like a HB pencil,7g. They have hot and cold and H20. Some shed well and fast, one has been unable to finish shedding for more than a week.( this one is not happy)it has moist towel daily and a rock to wrap around. They are small but apart from the one trying to shed all look good but small.Tried washing food, rubbing mice brains on food, feeding every week, putting food in daily for a week to see if they eat them selves...
My Question is:
What is the likely outcome, can I continue on this path until they pick up. I can not sell until they are self maintained. What can I try to better their survival chances.
What type of bread? wholegrain or white?
I would suggest you have some seroius husbandry problems that need addressing.
You will need to tell us how hot the hot end is for the hatchies for a start, what are they housed in
how were you offering the pink mice and the temp of the food etc etc
Single snake clip plastic container 12*5*17cm, water bowel,double layer hand towel they can hide under.Food item warmed to touch in bowel in water. "Habistat" Vivarium heat mat 150mm*250mm( they each get side- half on, half off) not sure of exact temp but deff* warm/cool area. Don't have gauge but will get one.
You will need to get an accurate reading on the heat, It need to be 33-34dg on the hot end consistantly.
Antaresia are real sensitive to low temp fluctuations and will not eat at all unless kept consistant.
Thanks, I'm on it. Will know for sure tomorrow.
Many people find Antaresia hard to get started eating. When you say you have tried many different types of 'meats' - what exactly do you mean by this? Some breeders I know start their Ants on gecko tails (or use gecko tails to scent with at least if they don't have access to many). Not a problem up this way as AHG's are everywhere so they can be caught and induced into dropping their tail.
I'v tried Pinkies, defrosted and fresh dead( no live available ATM), Crickets, Kangaroo, Beef, Chicken. I've tried all mentioned with mice blood/brains on. I was told not to try gecko..but I will do,)
- 11-Jul-12, 12:05 AM #9
People sometimes discourage the use of geckos (asian house gecko AHG) as wild caught animals can carry parasites that can be passed on to your animals. I would suggest to try scenting the pinkies with the gecko tail first, and then, if that doesn't work, feed the gecko tail to the snakes. also that way you may only have to try and catch one gecko.
As long as a snake is alert/healthy/not showing ribs being small should not be an issue. Snakes don't have to be a certain size/weight as a given age, they are not like people or other mammals. Snakes grow when they eat which means they can have sudden growth spurts when food is good or stay the same size for ages if food is scarce. As long as your snakes are not decreasing in weight they are not in immediate danger of starvation. Having said that, of cause you want to try and get them feeding regularly and without force feeding.
I would start by making sure all the husbandry things are adequate, temperature being the main thing. But also is the paper towel enough of a hide? I have heard toilet rolls can make good cheap hides for small snakes, particularly if you staple one end together (haven't actually tried it but it was suggested on APS by someone else).
I know it wouldn't account for their reluctance in feeding at the beginning, but could it be that they are not feeding well now because it is winter and they can tell even though they are not being cooled, i have heard stimson's do that sometimesbredli carpet python, woma python
wishlist: rough scaled python, geckos, etc... Truthfully, I want just about everything...
Thanks, apart from the one who's having a real hard time shedding they do not appear in any distress at all, socializing, moving etc well. They have not lost weight. I will get better hides tomorrow. Thanks. I have heard about the winter/not eating thing and at first it didn't bother me...and then i saw big buddah baby!
I've added better hides. Two babies went into theirs and stayed, the rest are playing with theirs. They play together a fair bit,since there all the same size, I can put them into a little bigger home so they can all stay together sometimes, right?
Last edited by KKerry; 11-Jul-12 at 01:23 AM.
If they're not feeding, you should not keep them together. They don't need company and the stress of being around other snakes can be contributing to their lack of appetite. You should also be keeping handling to an absolute bare minimum for the same reason (ie minimising stress)
Gone back to basic's. I've fed weaner legs, this went well(will use mice product only). I've darkened the environment and am not touching them. Temp gauge's are not accurate enough so I've ordered thermostat's for their heat mats( but temp in acceptable levels 30-33*). The few changes must be helping as some are already starting to eat independently(not whole pinkie but deff* a good start). Soaked non-shedder O/N in H2O and looking good. Cheers.
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