 Recent Herp Discussion | | | | | | | | Online Users: 163 | | 113 members and 50 guests | | ad, albinosunlimited, amazonian, ambah, Anto11, aussieblack, Australis, baxtor, BenReyn, bfg23, Blackdog, blading, boconnor, booboo_moomoo, bowdnboy, buttss66, CandiceJ, ClareB, cooper123, cris, Danger_Mouse, Daniel_Penrith, dansocks, DanTheMan, Dave78, Dave94, Didgeman, disasterpiece7.0, doctor_love, dogger_009, doods189, dragon170, Dreaddie, drifty, Dusty62, ecosnake, edgewing, Emzie, falconboy, first_time_owner, funcouple, gavan, GAZ-ROBOT, geckodan, GreenDiamond, harmac, Hawk, horsenz, horsesrule, idontlikeurmango, ilovejordan, imalizard, inthegrass, Ishah, itbites, James_Scott, Joseph, juliedamian, Justdriftnby, koubee, Lesa, Lewy, Luke1, Lukey_Boy, m.punja, Mangles, Mavrick, mazzaandbrad, mblissett, michelleryan, miley_take, missjohno86, moloch05, monis, mrillusion, mungus, murry, nonamesleft, OdessaStud, ogg666, olive, rainbow__serpent, rash, ravan, rebeccalg, reptile_mad, Rocket, scottyz23, serpenttongue, siami, Smellie, snakelvr, Stewydead, SyKeD, tooninoz, trader, Trouble, Vapor Snake, Veredus, VinceFASSW, viridis, VixenBabe, vs380kw, waruikazi, whatsup | |  | | 
09-Feb-06, 08:53 PM
|  | Subscriber | Join Date: Nov-05 Location: melbourne | | | |
sounds good then, so ill start cooling them late may and hopefully will get good results, how long do you leave your males in with your females for?
sorry for all the questions but i just want to get it right
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09-Feb-06, 11:15 PM
|  | Subscriber | Join Date: Jan-05 Location: North Queensland | | | |
Pretty much what Trueblue said....
Get your animals well conditioned prior to breeding season,
not fat; but a good size to weight ratio....Hot days and cool nights.
I normally trial mate my animals, starting anywhere from mid may june....
eg male in with the females for a few days; then when he shows no interest,
out for a few days......then try again....i continue to do so, until i know the girls gravid.
good luck :wink:
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Australia, Say NO!!!! to HYBRIDS ....and the CLOWNS!!!! that breed them  |
10-Feb-06, 09:08 AM
|  | Subscriber | Join Date: Nov-05 Location: Gracemere, Qld Gender:  | | |
Now back to TrueBlue and he 'cool end of the tank'??? If you can helkp me too...
I'm in Central Qld, so I get even hotter days than Nth Qld at the moment..... How do you offer a cool end of the tank when the actual temp is around 39'C (our expected top today)???
I've thought about using an exhaust fan (maybe like a comp cooler) but then thought about the use of them for cooling? It would create an air flow, but cool???
I've also heard/read somewhere about draping a damp towel over part of the tank/enclosure?? Thoughts??  Any one with these massive high temp is welcome and invited to share please!
Bec
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10-Feb-06, 09:10 AM
| | Subscriber | Join Date: Nov-05 Location: Gracemere, Qld Gender: | | |
Now back to TrueBlue and he 'cool end of the tank'??? If you can helkp me too...
I'm in Central Qld, so I get even hotter days than Nth Qld at the moment..... How do you offer a cool end of the tank when the actual temp is around 39'C (our expected top today)???
I've thought about using an exhaust fan (maybe like a comp cooler) but then thought about the use of them for cooling? It would create an air flow, but cool???
I've also heard/read somewhere about draping a damp towel over part of the tank/enclosure?? Thoughts?? Any one with these massive high temp is welcome and invited to share please!
Bec
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10-Feb-06, 09:37 AM
|  | Subscriber | Join Date: Nov-05 Location: QLD | | | |
scot/bec,-If the temps get to hot, wrap a ice pack in a pollow case, tea-towel or something simular and put in cold side.
You should ALWAYS keep your herps in the coolest room in the house.
Snakeitup,- its better if you turn them off completely at night.
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10-Feb-06, 09:47 AM
| | Subscriber | Join Date: Nov-05 Location: melbourne | | | |
thanks trueblue and indicus, you blokes have been a great help
cheers james
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17-May-06, 10:10 AM
|  | Regular Member | Join Date: Mar-06 Location: Sydney, NSW | | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by indicus Pretty much what Trueblue said....
Get your animals well conditioned prior to breeding season,
not fat; but a good size to weight ratio....Hot days and cool nights.
I normally trial mate my animals, starting anywhere from mid may june....
eg male in with the females for a few days; then when he shows no interest,
out for a few days......then try again....i continue to do so, until i know the girls gravid.
good luck :wink: | In terms of size to weight ratio, can someone elaborate?
I'm guessing they should be around the 5 foot mark minimum to start breeding (correct me if I'm wrong). For example;
Male:
5 foot - weight?
6 foot - weight?
7 foot - weight?
Female:
5 foot - weight?
6 foot - weight?
7 foot - weight?
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17-May-06, 10:22 AM
|  | Regular Member | Join Date: Mar-06 Location: Darwin NT Age/Gender: 23  | | | |
Bigger than 5 foot IMO. Male doesn't matter at all infact should eb quite lean. Should be a minimum of 4.5kg at four years old, so that would make the animal about six foot, prolly more.
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Gordo
Damn it man, I cannot make bricks without clay!
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17-May-06, 10:26 AM
| | Regular Member | Join Date: Mar-06 Location: Sydney, NSW | | | |
One of my males is a 3yo and about 4.5-5 foot and he's only 1.2kg... Wouldn't a 4kg 5 footer be a bit of a heffer?
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17-May-06, 10:28 AM
| | Regular Member | Join Date: Mar-06 Location: Darwin NT Age/Gender: 23 | | | |
Yes it would be, that's why you would want the animal to be around 6 foot and a bit older.
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Gordo
Damn it man, I cannot make bricks without clay!
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17-May-06, 11:20 AM
|  | Regular Member | Join Date: May-05 Location: Eltham, Victoria | | | Quote: |
Most thermostat controled enclosures dont give the animals any where near the temp gradient that this method does, and for most speices the larger the temp gradient the better.
| agreed. i see to many threads saying the temp gradients like 3-5'c. my bredli has about a 10'C difference depending on the ambient air temp and unless hes got food in his belly hes in the cool end around 18-21'C. his warm spot is about 30ish. the enclosures rob uses are also freakishly easy to build, i have a 4ftish enclosure in which i am using robs method. divided in teh middle with a hole at the back lower corner for the snake to go through and a 40watt red bulb on the warm end.
andrew
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17-May-06, 12:09 PM
| | Regular Member | Join Date: Mar-06 Location: Darwin NT Age/Gender: 23 | | | |
Slackra are you saying that the snakes temperatures at the hottest part of the day should be around 30 degrees and coldest around 10 or so lower or that one end should be constantly 30 and one constantly 20 or so?
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Gordo
Damn it man, I cannot make bricks without clay!
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17-May-06, 12:29 PM
| | Subscriber | Join Date: Nov-05 Location: QLD | | | |
waruikazi, depends on time of year, but the larger the temp gradiant the better and you will be amazed at how much time they spend on the cool side as long as they also have a warm side when needed.
Slackra, yes very simple to set up arnt they, but very effective.
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17-May-06, 12:38 PM
| | Regular Member | Join Date: Mar-06 Location: Sydney, NSW | | | |
If you use UTH's wouldn't that allow for a larger temp gradient than an ambient heater? I can see what your doing with the divider to be a great idea, just wondering if it can be replicated without the need for enclosure modification. UTH's under one side of the enclosure only would bump up the surface temp on that side, and the ambient temp slightly... the unheated side would most likely be room temp then.. isn't room temp good enough?
Also, being in Sydney, my room temp is reaching a night time low of 19deg C. Should I move the enclosures out to the garage floor to get a 10-15 night time low?
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17-May-06, 12:53 PM
| | Subscriber | Join Date: Nov-05 Location: QLD | | | |
UTH?, do you mean a heat mat under one end of tank. if so yes this does much the same thing and i have a few enclosures set up that way, but i DONOT use a thermostat to run it, rather a light dimmer instead so that it is adjusted to create a constant warm,(not hot), spot for the snake to lie on when needed. In a 4 foot tank i would only have the mat under 1/4 of it at the very most. the rest of the tank is subject to day/night and seasonal temp fluctuations but the warm spot is always there when needed, except of course when snake room is 30 degrees or more or you are cooling for breeding,(on during day off at night). Even done this way thou a division will still give a larger temp graident as it trps the heat on one side so the other is totally uneffected.
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