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  Original Poster   #1  
Old 22-May-08, 12:55 AM
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Question Children's python not eating

Hi,
I have a young male children's python which was around a few months old when I bought it 2 months ago. It was about 50cm long at the time. His first meal was a fresh killed adult mouse in the first week which he ate quite happily. The following is his complete meal pattern:

1st week (exactly a week from buying): fresh killed adult mouse
2nd week: two defrosted fuzzies, a few days apart
3rd week: same as previous week
4th week?: I think he was eating fuzzies again this week but I'm not 100% on when I started him on defrosted adult mice
Following two weeks: defrosted adult mice a week apart. The defrosted stuff didn't seem to bother him at all. He ate them just as eagerly as the fresh killed one.

He hasn't eaten for about 2 1/2 weeks (since 5th May) and I'm a bit worried because he normally grasps the mouse as soon as I put it in the cage and starts eating straight away. He has had no problem with me taking him out of his hide to make him aware of the mice in the past, so I think I can eliminate him getting a scare from that.

The seasons here are changing so maybe it's the cooler weather that's bothering him, but he has been just as active (if not more active) around his cage as he was before the colder weather set in. He's even been actively trying to get closer to the vents/mesh where the air gets in - more so than he did with the warmer weather. Which seems strange to me because snakes are cold blooded and need heat, right? He hasn't been hanging around near his UV light as much as he used to either. Children's pythons are native to here so the weather shouldn't be a problem should it? I know wild snakes are on the move now so maybe he's feeling restless?

I tried feeding him at night time when he's roaming around the cage but he just slithers right past the mouse, sometimes sniffs it, but then leaves it to go cold. I tried two mice and a fuzzy at least a few days apart after my scheduled feeding time didn't suit him (a week and a few days since the previous defrosted adult mouse) and another adult mouse tonight but with no luck.

He had already shed his skin overnight around the 12th April (just over month ago) and he doesn't look pale or have bluish eyes. But then again, before his first shed I looked at him and didn't really think he had pale eyes and then he shed the next day.

Maybe he's just plain not hungry and I'm overreacting, because he did seem to struggle with the defrosted mice, so they were a big meal. He pooed the other day too so maybe he's still digesting? I think that 2 1/2 weeks should be enough though, and he did eat the second defrosted adult about a week after the first one. I avoided handling him at least a day before feeding, unless it was to get him out of his hide and put him near the mouse.

The other option is to take him to the vet, but as I said, he's been just as active as he always was and doesn't seem sick. Like no abnormal faeces or anything.

His cage is a 30 x 30 x 45cm exo terra glass terrarium with a fake rock and a fake plant to hide in. I only put the plant in a week or so after his last feed, so maybe he's intimidated by it? He has been crawling around in it and hiding in its shade though so it doesn't seem to scare him. I also put some newspaper in his fake rock after he stopped feeding to make him feel more snug because the rock has a lot of space.

He certainly seems snug in his new(ish) home and has been eating for a few months already, which is why I am doubting the problem lies in him feeling insecure or the climate not being right.
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Old 22-May-08, 07:35 AM
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I didn't read it all, but if he's around 50 cm's he must be aroung 14 months? Since its cooler he wont want to eat but if your keeping the temps up and if his roaming the enclosure, this could me his thinking its time to breed, they can be funny like that. My hasnt eaten for 3 weeks, and it hasnt worried me one bit. He'll be fine mate.
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Old 22-May-08, 07:51 AM
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If you are using a UV light for heat get rid of it and replace it with a proper heat globe as
you temps in a glass terrarium will fluctuate to much and may cause you health probs
with your python. A bright light left on all the time will also cause distress as well.
It is a well known fact that the anteresia family dont need UV to survive.
Your feeding probs could be caused by inadiquate heating and when you do feed only
feed once every 6 to 7days not a couple of times a week the python will do very well like that,
Not feeding for short periods isnt uncommon and wont harm your python.
Personally i dont like all glass enclosures for keeping of snakes of any kind as they are
hard to maintain a temp gradient in to maintain the health of your python
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Old 22-May-08, 09:04 AM
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I only fed him twice a week when he was on fuzzies, because I couldn't get any bigger frozen mice at the time and the breeder I bought my snake from recommended mice that were about adult size. I thought the fuzzies wouldn't be a big enough meal for him once a week.

What do you mean by heat globe? Can I just put the heat globe in the casing that currently holds my UV globe? Do you have any recommendations on brands, wattage etc? I know UV isn't absolutely necessary but he is kept indoors at least a few metres away from any windows. It does get quite hot here during the wet season so I guess that's why I didn't think of buying a heat globe. But if he's roaming around still (not confining himself to his hide-outs for any longer than he used to) and not going near his UV light doesn't that mean he's warm enough?
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Old 22-May-08, 01:48 PM
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Just because you don't see him out and warming inside doesn't mean that he doesn't.

A 50cm childrens should be on rats by now. Try converting him over, and feeding him only 7-10 days. Also, just because you have smaller meals doesn't mean that they have to be feed a couple times a week.

Not sure on the electrics, but I use a 50w Exo Terra Sun Glo. At this time it is only on for 9 hours a day- as it is getting colder. However, I also have a 2ft x 2ft x 1.5ft wooden enclosure with glass doors, so mine contains the heat so much better than a glass one would.

Also, it doesn't matter if he's kept indoors away from UV- he doesn't need UV. As stated before, the bright light is probably stressing your snake. Also, UV lights don't put out much heat. Get a heat lamp/globe or a ceramic heat emitter.

Don't fuss that he hasn't fed for a while. Don't bother him with the food, and offer one mouse (preferably rat) once a week.

~ notechistiger.
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Old 22-May-08, 03:08 PM
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I can't have a wooden enclosure because I live in the tropics and it's just not practical. It'd be a haven for bacteria and would smell and probably fall apart in the wet season due to humidity/rain.

Also, he really looked like he was struggling with the adult mice I fed him, so I don't want to try rats. The thickest part of his body is probably around 2-2.5cm thick, and I've heard you shouldn't feed rodents that are thicker than the thickest part of the snake. The mice were at least double his thickness.

I will try leaving him alone for another week and feeding him then. I will also look out for a sun glo globe.

Thanks for the reassurance/advice
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Old 23-May-08, 01:32 PM
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My snake gets one hopper rat every 7-10 days, and the rats are usually around twice the thickness as hers.

A pinkie rat is usually smaller than an adult mouse, and they've got more nutrients than mice. That's one reason why people recommend rats over mice.

How much ventilation does your current enclosure have?
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Old 23-May-08, 01:42 PM
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errrrrm beg to differ on a pinkie rat being bigger then a adult mouse either you have some sort of freak pinkie rats or you have dwarf adult mice............
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Old 23-May-08, 01:43 PM
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Newbie - I am unsure of the reason your snake may have gone off it's food, it seems likely it is husbandry related - could quite possibly be the heating/lighting regime...it may just be that he is sensing the change in season...

...however, on your feeding regime - a snake of the size you have described should comfortably be taking adult mice - and by the sounds of it, he is...if he has swallowed and digested them, they are fine...

...as to your comment that you have heard not to feed anything wider than the snake - this is incorrect - the feed should leave an obvious bulge in the snake...I think adult mice or similar sized rats will do this well...

...if you choose to feed multiple smaller items, do not give a few days break, just feed them one after the other on your scheduled feeding day/night. Once one is swallowed, offer the second...your snake should be eating roughly every 7 days, if he fails to take a feed do not offer a new one until the next scheduled feed...
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Old 23-May-08, 01:55 PM
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thats it aslan, you can over feed your snake and end up with whats called "pin head" adult mice are big enough at the moment for your C/python but as aslan said feed only 1 day a week but give multiple feeds if your snake is happy to take a few ....
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Old 23-May-08, 01:58 PM
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hi ya
well my blonde mac is 15 months old and she has not eaten since 14th march 08..she is still out and about ...she looks great has good form and she is just letting nature takes its course..it is winter and many many snakes stop eating..don't be to worried i am sure yours will eat when he/she is ready...
Jacqui..
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Old 23-May-08, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notechistiger View Post
How much ventilation does your current enclosure have?
The entire top is mesh and there is a small vent type thing below the glass doors. The UV light covers about a1/4-1/3 of the top mesh part. http://www.exo-terra.com/en/products..._terrarium.php > Mine is the PT-2602.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aslan View Post
Newbie - I am unsure of the reason your snake may have gone off it's food, it seems likely it is husbandry related - could quite possibly be the heating/lighting regime...it may just be that he is sensing the change in season...
The lighting didn't seem to bother him for the last two months, and the fact that he was/is actively getting closer to the vents (i.e. cool air) and not near his UV leads me to think the temperature/lighting is warm/bright enough, possibly too bright/warm, which is strange because the weather is getting colder so I don't know why his enclosure would be warmer or why he would want to get closer to the cool air.

Quote:
...if you choose to feed multiple smaller items, do not give a few days break, just feed them one after the other on your scheduled feeding day/night. Once one is swallowed, offer the second...your snake should be eating roughly every 7 days, if he fails to take a feed do not offer a new one until the next scheduled feed...
I wanted to feed one after the other, but he disappeared into his hide without looking twice at the second mouse.

Last edited by python_newbie; 23-May-08 at 03:33 PM.
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  Original Poster   #13  
Old 23-May-08, 03:35 PM
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Thanks for the reassurance guys. The change in season now seems like the most plausible explanation. I'll try not to worry about him
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Old 23-May-08, 03:41 PM
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Get rid of the UV light for heating and replace it with a proper heat globe as it is not good for the health of your python to have such a bright light on 24 hours a day!
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Old 23-May-08, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beeman View Post
Get rid of the UV light for heating and replace it with a proper heat globe as it is not good for the health of your python to have such a bright light on 24 hours a day!
It's not on 24 hours a day... I have it on a timer for around 10 hours a day, as long as the sun would be up normally. I will look at switching to a heat globe though.
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