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  #1  
Old 31-Aug-06, 10:32 AM
Kiwicam's Avatar
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Enc Heat & Light Setup

Ok - I would like to ask for some educated opinions relating to setting up some heat and light for a single snake. I am trying to get a 2ft sq by 4ft high enclosure for a Jungle.
Here is a setup I was considering - opinions/advice welcomed...

Winter
24hr - Ceramic Heat 250w - Thermostat
Day - OZ Bright UV Heat and light 100w
Night - OZ Moon Nocturnal heat and light 100w

Summer
24hr - Ceramic Heat 100w - Thermostat
Day - OZ Bright UV Heat and light 100w
Night - OZ Moon Nocturnal heat and light 40w

Heatmat if required.

I wanted to keep it as natural as possible in so far as the UV sun lights, have read that Jungles don't need UV but hey it is there in nature so I am sure it will be fine. Also with the moon lights at night.

The brands are not impportant at this stage, just the type. Also if i may add it seems VERY difficult to locate a tall enclosure - wat do ppl do for arboreal snakes here?

Thanks.
 
  #2  
Old 01-Sep-06, 08:13 AM
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Nevermind - Will just search the forum for similar setups, and just trial and error before the snake goes in.

Moderators pse delete this post, cheers.
 
  #3  
Old 01-Sep-06, 08:29 AM
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I have a Jungle who is happy enough in my enclosure that only has one 150watt infrared heat globe controlled by a thermostat mine is 4 foot high and wide and 2 foot deep and i get a steady 31-32 degree 24/7 he just move's into his cool hide if he want's to cool down or into the hot hide when he is to cold and when he want's to be in the middle he sits on his branch half way up the enclosure
i dont bother with night time globe's and all that jazz
 
  #4  
Old 01-Sep-06, 08:40 AM
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I think the wattage your considering is far too high!!

Jungles or Carpets in general really dont need that much heat, plus i dont think you can control the "Oz Bright" globes with a stat.

I not sure of your location, but for my Carpets i use from 25w to 60w. just one heat source either a ceramic or party light.


Matt
 
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  #5  
Old 01-Sep-06, 08:43 AM
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Building an enclosure is always a good way to get what you want.
 
  #6  
Old 01-Sep-06, 08:54 AM
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matqld83 your right mate the night globe's blow after one night of being on a thermostat been there done that and they suck
 
  #7  
Old 01-Sep-06, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scotchbo
matqld83 your right mate the night globe's blow after one night of being on a thermostat been there done that and they suck
Im talking about the MV bulbs.
 
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  #8  
Old 01-Sep-06, 09:45 AM
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Thanks for the input ppl. I agree with wattage too high, that's why i asked tyo get your guys advice.
I have made some changes to the setup I might go with somewhat. Lowered the wattage of the ceramic, removed the Oz bright and will prob just have a Sun Glo for some lighting.
Had some high wattage as am in Sydney and it gets pretty cold in my place here at night in winter, but plenty warm in summer. Also want a 4ft high enclosure and figured would need a bit to keep the lower end reasonable warm.

Wasn't going to have the bulb on a stat - just the Ceramic, on a DL2ME, just researching if I need the temp drop at night from the 'ME' bit, or just constant temp 24hr - would like to have a heat cycle based on day/night, only a small drop but keep it natural.

Was only going to have the night light on a timer for a few hours after killing the main light so can see some night activity, say timed to go off around midnight or so.
With the main light on a timer for 12-14 hours a day.

But like I said i guess it would be best to just see what wattage I need to heat the specific enclosure I end up with, but thanks anyway ppl.
 
  #9  
Old 01-Sep-06, 09:53 AM
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Sounds like your putting considerable amount of thought into it, When i was living in near Sydney, i had a taller enclosure around 5ft x 2ft, i used two 40 w globes one at the top of the enlclosure and another mid way mounted under a shelf, this worked fine. I used a very low wattage heat matt at the floor of the enclosure just for the coldest times of winter.

HTH
Matt
 
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  #10  
Old 01-Sep-06, 10:00 AM
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Ok thanks, it sounds like you really don't need to much wattage to get the right temps, guess it depends on enc material as well.
I guess just the 1 med wattage ceramic will do the trick, so it stays on for reasonable lengths of time.

Yea I do apologise as I am a super noob with snakes , and I have been using the search function.
But I do like to put a good amount of research and planning into things I do, as I don't like to do anything half-***.
 
  #11  
Old 01-Sep-06, 10:21 AM
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When you make your enclosure, just put in 3 or 4 ceramic light fittings.

That way if you find you need more heat, you can simply just screw in another light bulb, as the socket is already there. That was my main mistake, and then had to add more sockets each time I found I wasn't getting enough heat.

I would get a Microclimate b1ME, I know they are expensive $168 but then you will get day and night temps automatically, and your heat sources will dim, not turn on and off all the time, thus increasing globe life and interfering less with your snake. Better to get it all set up right from the start, than 1 year later wish you had it as you are sick of or forget to lower the night temps manually.

I would only put heat sources in on the roof, as if you put them on the side, your snake may decide to sleep on top of the light cage. These light cages can get pretty hot and may burn your snake before it realises its too hot and moves away.

Also the thermostat you mentioned is a "pulse" thermostat, they cant be used with lights. They are for heat mats and things like that. So the b1Me would be better.

I will hopefully post some pics of mine on the weekend.
 
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  #12  
Old 01-Sep-06, 10:55 AM
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Thanks Miffy,

Yep understand the DL2ME is for heat sources only (downloaded all the manuals off the microclimate site to compare - going with microcomp pulse one :wink: ), as I intended to have only the ceramic heater on a thermostat for heat, and now just the cheaper Sun Glo on during daytime for light.

So you would recommend no ceramic, just a heat lamp on a DL1ME dimmer stat for heat & light combined?

Good idea with the fittings, will have an extra - just in case.
 
  #13  
Old 01-Sep-06, 11:02 AM
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Well the advantage of having lights is that your snake will be most active at night time, and if you have no light source, you wont be able to see it.

Thats why a night light (purple or red) is a good idea.

Your choice but I wouldn't get a pulse thermostat.
 
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  #14  
Old 01-Sep-06, 11:12 AM
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Yep, roger that.
I had intended to have the ceramic on 24 hr on the stat for heat.
Sun glo on 12 hr timer for daylght,
and low watt Oz moon on at night on timer for a few hours after day turns off to see some night activity.
 
  #15  
Old 01-Sep-06, 03:59 PM
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Why dont you just run the night glow and the ceramic off the one thermostat?

Then you don't need any timers, it doesnt matter if the night glow comes on during the day, its just a purple light which the snake can't detect.

Your snake can bask under the ceramic or the night glow which ever it prefers.

Just have the UV fluro on a timer.
 
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