Recent Herp Discussion | | | | | | | Online Users: 141 | | 97 members and 44 guests | | $N@K3$, 1234webb, 8438478395783468, ad, akira, alteara, Aussie Python Lover, Australis, beanboy, beardy_boy_6, biggie, bkn351, BlindSnake, CarbonUnit, caustichumor, centralian11, cobrajet, cuddlykylie, DarkSpartan, Dave94, DevilH8, DrNick, Eylandt, falconboy, footsoulja, funcouple, GARTHNFAY, Gavin, gelusmuse, Glidergirl, hobbo, hodges, hozy6, inj88u, jimtaylor, Jungletrans, Jungle_Freak, kab_65, Katherine, krusty, Kurto, lez1971, lovey, Luke1, luke60, Luke_G, LullabyLizard, maccabros, Magpie, malika, manchild, Marto167, mckellar007, mcmuffin125, miley_take, Minke, Mooseman, Mrs I, MzSel, Nagraj, nervous, nigmax, Nikki_Elmo, nook171, notechistiger, nuthn2do, pete12, peterbuilt, pomzx, rash, Raven, Renagade, Repz, Robbo, Rocket, rosequoll, shooshoo, SilviaS, solar 17, stripe, Sturdy, Tolly, TURBO8, vadnappa, W.T.BUY, w3ap0n, xxsatanica, zobo | |  | 
29-Apr-06, 04:12 PM
|  | Regular Member | Join Date: Mar-06 Location: Knox Vic | | |
Hi, yes you can all have a good laugh at pic (I did), but you get the idea. This will be the first enclosure we have built, and it will be housing our hatchie diamonds when they get a bit bigger, and possibly a hatchie bredl in the other side.
Each enclosure will be 73cm high 41cm wide and 59cm deep.
This is only our rough plan, we are looking for advice on the type of globes to use, placement of the thermostats, vents etc.
We are going to run the fluro on a timer, and have a non light emitting globes. Should we run the heat globe on a timer as well?
Also, i have a probe thermostat, but thinking about getting 2 wall thermostats for these enclosures but would like to use a dimmer. The dimmers i have seen look like they can only be used with prewired probes. Does anyone know much about this?
So many more questions but i cant think of them right now.
Any advice or opinions please.
Thanks
__________________
Logic is an afterthought
| 
29-Apr-06, 04:12 PM
|  | Regular Member | Join Date: Mar-06 Location: Knox Vic | | |
sorry didn't mean to post the pic twice
__________________
Logic is an afterthought
| 
29-Apr-06, 04:28 PM
|  | Retired Snake Subscriber | Join Date: Aug-05 Location: Western Sydney Age/Gender: 25  | | |
Looks good, only i'd have vents at the top also to allow for air flow. As the hot air rises, it will exit through the top vents and fresh air will be drawn in from the bottom vents. I'll leave the questions for someone else to answer, i can't focus on the words atm.. i'm blind
__________________
Rekognize: All comments are made with tongue in cheek.
In case of suspension, catch me at m_bredli@hotmail.com | 
29-Apr-06, 04:31 PM
|  | Regular Member | | | | |
looks good hope ya have fun making it.
__________________
Go hard or go home
| 
29-Apr-06, 04:59 PM
|  | Regular Member | Join Date: Apr-06 Location: Gosford Central Coast NSW | | | |
I like it.
Hope it works out for you
__________________
Master Of The Double Nunchaku Technique...... I Have The Reflexes Of A Cat!
| 
29-Apr-06, 07:22 PM
|  | Has Happy Herps.... Regular Member | Join Date: Aug-03 Location: SYDNEY | | | |
Unless you are getting 18" fluoros, they will not fit front to back as you have indicated, you will have to run them on a diaganol. Run them on a timer but you will have to monitor temps in summer, depending on your locale, as they can overheat a small enclosure.
If you are going to use ceramic heat emitters in the enclsoures than you could get away with using something as simple as a microclimate ministat 100, one for each side. You could use a ministat 300 if you were going to mimick temps in both sides and only have the thermostat in one side. If you want to control night time drops as well, then you can go for a B1ME or a DL1ME. You can also use these thermostats with light globes as well as ceramincs, they would be my personal choice, great thermostats, for those that use them....LOL. Don't run your thermstats on a timer unless you want to cool for breeding in winter.
Move both your heat sources to the centre, that way the cooler outside temps can get to the side of the enclosure and help keep a gradient.
Place vents at the top as previously mentioned.
Thermostats like IMITs are good, but need a qualified electrician to wire them up and once in they are not really able to moved around as you wish like you can with a probe stat.
Hope that helps a bit.
| 
29-Apr-06, 07:51 PM
|  | Regular Member | Join Date: Mar-06 Location: Knox Vic | | |
Thanks, will definatly put vents up the top and move the heat globes to the center.
Everything i can find online about the ministat 100 says it can only be used for heat mats. ?
I am looking into some other thermostats now.
Keep the advice coming!
Thanks again
__________________
Logic is an afterthought
| 
29-Apr-06, 07:54 PM
|  | Has Happy Herps.... Regular Member | Join Date: Aug-03 Location: SYDNEY | | | |
Ok, didn;t know that. I can't see why they couldn't be used with ceramic though, there abvioulsy reasons for it.
__________________ www.STRICTLYREPTILES.com.au | 
30-Apr-06, 03:12 PM
|  | Regular Member | Join Date: Mar-06 Location: Knox Vic | | | |
Because the cabinet is timber, I was thinking I'll need to seal the bottom of it somehow. What do other people use? I wanna keep the woodgrain look up the sides, Can I get a clear waterproof paint or something?
So long as I let it air for a good week or so it should be ok, yeah?
__________________
Logic is an afterthought
| 
30-Apr-06, 03:21 PM
|  | Regular Member | Join Date: Aug-05 Location: Rugsville..... Gender:  | | | |
i like the way you did that well done, looks good to.
__________________
BIGGER THE PYTHON THE BETTER........
| 
30-Apr-06, 03:24 PM
|  | Retired Snake Subscriber | Join Date: Aug-05 Location: Western Sydney Age/Gender: 25  | | | |
Microclimate Ministat 300
ON/OFF thermostat for controlling up to 300 watts of any heat source. Size : 75 * 52 * 27 mm (excluding cables)
$100.00 (including 10 % tax)
__________________
Rekognize: All comments are made with tongue in cheek.
In case of suspension, catch me at m_bredli@hotmail.com | 
30-Apr-06, 05:46 PM
|  | Has Happy Herps.... Regular Member | Join Date: Aug-03 Location: SYDNEY | | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by I.Like.Stuff Because the cabinet is timber, I was thinking I'll need to seal the bottom of it somehow. What do other people use? I wanna keep the woodgrain look up the sides, Can I get a clear waterproof paint or something?
So long as I let it air for a good week or so it should be ok, yeah? | I use Sikaflex to seal the joints.
You can get sikaflex, which is what I prefer, in a range of colours, so you should be able to find a colour to suit your cabinet.
|  |
Similar Threads | | Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post | | My Plans | Reptile_Boy | General Herps | 16 | 26-Nov-07 07:37 PM | | Enclosure plans | peter22 | Wanted to Buy | 2 | 03-Sep-07 02:30 PM | | Enclosure Plans | sam | General Herps | 1 | 25-May-06 07:05 PM | |