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15-Nov-07, 09:57 PM
|  | - Subscriber | Join Date: Jun-07 Location: hornsby area, sydney Age/Gender: 13  | | |
ok, it says in a Bearded Dragon book that you shold not handle your bearded dragons until about 8 wks old (or something like that). - but what about feeding them? or bathing them? you'll have to take them out into a seperate dish for bathing. How do i do this? Also, is there anything else that i should know about hatchies that is really important?
any advice would be really good 
thanks in advance! |
16-Nov-07, 11:11 AM
|  | Regular Member | Join Date: May-06 Location: Hornsby Age/Gender: 34  | | | |
must knows are not to keep them on sand or any injestible substrate, feeder insects should fit within the space between the beardies eyes, heat should be 38-42C in the basking area with a cool end thats room temp.
calcium should be given daily, dust 1 insect meal a day, i also leave a little pile of calcium on their basking rock and they lick it up.
they need a good UVB light they can get within the recommended distance of (6-8 inches fro tubes)
and sunlight is also recommended,...u can get mesh outdoor cages so they can be safe in the sun.
try to handle it as little as possible fro the first week or 2, just so u dont stress it too much, but still take it out fro feeding,..its so much easier to use a feeding tub, i mist my babies over the kitchen sink for 5 mins twice a day (damp tanks arent good) and they have a bath each morning which theyre pooping in religiously already.
that amount of handling hasnt affected them badly in any way and i started doing that as soon as i got them when they were about 3 weeks old.
feed them insects morning and night and leave a salad fro them throughout the day, mine are eating all of their salad already.
make sure they have a couple of hours or heat before lights our to digest their evening meal,...if its getting too late i heat up a sock filled with rice in teh microwave and put them to sleep on that covered with a facewasher. (warm not burny hot)
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Some people are like slinkys, not really good fro anything, but still bring a smile to ur face when u push them down a flight of stairs,....
CC
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16-Nov-07, 11:12 AM
| | Regular Member | Join Date: May-06 Location: Hornsby Age/Gender: 34 | | | |
oh, and hatchys are incredible quick, dont let him out of ur sight when hes not in teh tank!!
__________________
Some people are like slinkys, not really good fro anything, but still bring a smile to ur face when u push them down a flight of stairs,....
CC
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16-Nov-07, 01:14 PM
| | - Subscriber | Join Date: Jun-07 Location: hornsby area, sydney Age/Gender: 13 | | | |
thanks Chris!!!
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16-Nov-07, 04:10 PM
| | - Subscriber | Join Date: Jun-07 Location: hornsby area, sydney Age/Gender: 13 | | | |
with the calcium, can you get it in powder?
is tiles a good substrate? (with rocks too)
thanks again Chris.
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18-Nov-07, 02:33 PM
|  | 100% Het for AWESOME Subscriber | Join Date: Apr-07 Location: Sutherland Shire, NSW Age/Gender: 21 | | |
Calcium supplement comes in powder form.
Most use ReptiCal. I'm pretty sure Herp Shop sell it.
Also get ReptiVite for other vitamin supplements.
*EDIT*
Here: http://www.herpshop.com.au/Medicine.html
Tiles are great if you can get them fitted nicely.
Here's FalconBoy's setup in a four foot tank: http://www.aussiepythons.com/forum/a...3&d=1191825756
He's used tile grout to fix the tiles in place. Then you only need a damp sponge to clean off any poop.
Others just use newspaper (including myself). It's free (pretty much) and you can fold it to fit any tank size.
Here's my setup: Beardie Pics Here with thanks
I have one single roof tile for the basking spot, and I've since rotated the drift wood so they can climb higher to the UV. They LOVE climbing, and prefer to sleep up in the branches.
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Need to study....
Currently doing my Honours project in Nanotechnology  |
18-Nov-07, 02:43 PM
| | - Subscriber | Join Date: Jun-07 Location: hornsby area, sydney Age/Gender: 13 | | | |
great thanks Duke!!!!
yeah we have heaps of tiles spare at home. Ill probably have about 4 -6 with cylican inbetween.
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18-Nov-07, 02:48 PM
| | 100% Het for AWESOME Subscriber | Join Date: Apr-07 Location: Sutherland Shire, NSW Age/Gender: 21 | | | |
Yeah silicon will work great.
Just be warned that it's quite fumey.
Do it well in advance of getting inhabitants. I've nearly been knocked out when I accidentally copped a nose full of silicon fumes.
I rate the fumes up there with pure ammonia for throwing you back lol.
__________________
Need to study....
Currently doing my Honours project in Nanotechnology |
19-Nov-07, 02:28 PM
|  | Regular Member | Join Date: Aug-07 Location: SouthAustralia Gender: | | | |
Substrate is a personal choice.......ive always used sand...& ive had no probs
If you have a glass tank you have no need to worry about misting problems........
& with hatchies till their 8wks you mist them & use a dropper bottle(dropping water on their nose) to ensure hydration as they often forget to drink
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21-Nov-07, 12:39 PM
| | Regular Member | Join Date: Aug-07 Location: SouthAustralia Gender: | | | |
Sorry,you asked aout handling....... wouldnt over do it...but as a hatchie you will have up to 4 feeding atempts in a feed tub if not 5...so you will handle b/d 4/5times per day as it is ,gives you enough time to check him out & hatchie will get used to handling...steady hands & hold the tail firmly(but not too firm between thumb & index finger as he sits on palm of your hand,as they are lightening fast.
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22-Nov-07, 02:16 AM
| | Regular Member | Join Date: Jan-07 Location: Florida Gender: | | | | Hello
Hello,
If you do choose to use sand, please don't use the reptisand or the calcisand, they cause impactions. Choose the washed & sifted playsand, it does not clump up & harden like the calcisand does.
The UVB lights, I recommend the reptisun 10, or the reptiglo 8. They are flourescent tube bulbs, & should be roughly 8 inches away, used in conjunction with a bright white basking bulb, & need to be changed every 5 or so months for optimal UVB output.
Tracie
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