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  #31  
Old 27-Mar-08, 08:38 PM
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I'd continue heating him as normal (as long as you can ensure the temps won't get too high again). But in saying that i wouldn't go against David Vella's word, so i'm not too sure. Did he say why you should switch his heat off?
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  #32  
Old 27-Mar-08, 08:38 PM
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thats microclimate for you. there crap my b1 stoped working after 2 months. Dixel digial bar fridge thermostats work very well(3 years Ive had one for and is still going), its got temp alarms and you can adjust it to 0.1 of a degree, bought it through a mate for $40 best one ive invested in and its extremely accurate, and extremely better than a $140 microclimate peice of junk that will probably blow within 6 months.
  Original Poster   #33  
Old 27-Mar-08, 08:40 PM
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i czant get a reliable temperature going atm anyway
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  #34  
Old 28-Mar-08, 07:42 PM
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Is there a way that you can configure a setup to use a pulse or dimming as your main thermostat with a secondary on/off style thermostat as a backup incase the main fails? My theory is to use the pulse or dimming with probe in the centre to control a gradient and use an on/off thermostat in the cool end set to say 30 degrees. If the cool end reaches more than 30 degrees the whole system will turn off. Any thoughts?
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  Original Poster   #35  
Old 28-Mar-08, 08:32 PM
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i only have heat matt on about 1/4 of the enclousure purely for that reason ewan
your idea is a good one though, i just bought a habistat thermostat and it works like a charm.... set it to 30 degrees and it has been sitting at 30-32 degrees (been a bit paranoid checking ever 10 mins!)

Snakes doing great ill give him a couple of days then take him to David to see if theres anything internal
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  #36  
Old 28-Mar-08, 08:53 PM
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Glad your snakey is doing well! I have 6 B1's none of mine have missed a beat and even in a click clack I can maintain a 32-28 degrees gradient. However, I have heard, after buying my B1s, that if the unit fails it will still supply power to the device and allow the temperatures to rise and rise. If this is the case it is completely unsatisfactory and I will never buy another microclimate for this reason.
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  Original Poster   #37  
Old 28-Mar-08, 09:08 PM
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yep thats what mine did , got home and it was at 47 degrees not as if its an old thermostat... got it 2 weeks ago....
pretty sure the habistat turns off if it fails
n
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  #38  
Old 28-Mar-08, 09:39 PM
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Lets hope so! What kind of response did you get you took the faulty item back for a refund?
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  Original Poster   #39  
Old 28-Mar-08, 11:12 PM
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i order stuff through my mums shop so i called urs wholesale they said Hello so and so speaking from urs i said hey my thermostat like failed and they asked bout set up etc i said it was all set up correctly (it was trust me lol) and they pretty much said send it to us if its broken we will send u a new one... i dont really want a new one as i dont trust microclimate anymore so im hoping they will just give me my money back...
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  #40  
Old 28-Mar-08, 11:16 PM
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i am yet to experience a prob with microclimate. i currently have 6 b1's running and not had a drama at all. i have no doubt there are faulty ones out there, but i wouldn't rule them out just yet, get your replacement one and see if your happy with a working unit.

If you are planning to go to habistat, and i have heard they are great, just rememver a dimming habistat needs min 40W load. what size heat mat are you using?
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Old 28-Mar-08, 11:20 PM
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got a habistat today got the on/off one for that reason, i still have 2 other micro climates running in other enclousures but i still think the habistat runs alot better, im going to sell my 2 micro climates and replace with habistats
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  #42  
Old 29-Mar-08, 07:53 AM
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I only use Habistat or Microclimate and the only problem I have ever had was when I used light bulbs with a Mat Stat so was my fault. They are extremely reliable and used in their millions all around the world but like anything they are foolproof. The trick is to use a heat source that isn't too powerful.
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  #43  
Old 29-Mar-08, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boa View Post
The trick is to use a heat source that isn't too powerful.
Sure they all have a load rating. I think from my memory B1's are 600 watt max load. I myself, as have others, have used a B1 to power multiple identical enclosures with out a problem. I highly doubt that using a 10 or 20 watt heat matt will cause fault to a B1 microclimate. I came across another similar thread here on APS quite a while ago where a member had a few B1's fail. From my memory he was using quite a few (100?) units and had 2 fail. If only a small number of units are faulty I doubt they would bother fixing the problem. It would be less costly for them to exchange a few units everynow and then rather than investigate the problem further. That's business!
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Last edited by Ewan; 29-Mar-08 at 08:21 AM.
  #44  
Old 29-Mar-08, 08:26 AM
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SO after all that is your snake ok thats the main concern did u take it to a vet ? RBB
  #45  
Old 29-Mar-08, 09:10 AM
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I meant using a heat source too poweful to overheat the cage/animal not the thermostat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ewan View Post
Sure they all have a load rating. I think from my memory B1's are 600 watt max load. I myself, as have others, have used a B1 to power multiple identical enclosures with out a problem. I highly doubt that using a 10 or 20 watt heat matt will cause fault to a B1 microclimate. I came across another similar thread here on APS quite a while ago where a member had a few B1's fail. From my memory he was using quite a few (100?) units and had 2 fail. If only a small number of units are faulty I doubt they would bother fixing the problem. It would be less costly for them to exchange a few units everynow and then rather than investigate the problem further. That's business!
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