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  Original Poster   #16  
Old 08-Aug-04, 07:06 PM
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Crikey!~ i dont know Alan, thats what I was thinking alright, cant work out why it should be a bad assumption though! Its a mystery why 100 watts less should work better thats for sure.
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  #17  
Old 08-Aug-04, 07:26 PM
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i think putting just a small amout of time (and electricity) into such a big power house makes it too hot for that short time making the temp vary a fair bit.

Just my observations and opinion.

Cheers, Alan.

P.s, i have the 250w here as a spare, if you find that you can get it to sit at a good temp then you can have this one.
  Original Poster   #18  
Old 08-Aug-04, 07:35 PM
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Thanks for the offer Al, ill keep it in mind, meanwhile ill see how it goes ....relativly steady so far! the humidity is more a problem for some reason, at the moment, its at 46% with the water directly under the ceramic, it should be higher, 50-55% dont know why its not?????
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  #19  
Old 08-Aug-04, 08:14 PM
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You can never rely overly much on the markings on a thermostat. At best they will respond accurately to the temperature and the location of the probe. A thermometer, placed where you want to know the temperature is the only way to go. Better still, use a min/max thermeter and measure the range at the hot spot and cool end.

A thermeter gun is a really good way to check this out and they are a lot more affordable these days.

I don't think a little bit of temperature fluctuation is necessarily a bad thing as long as there is a good temperature gradient.

If you are trying to achive a stable temperature you may wish to consider using a dimmer, in addition to a thermostat, on your heat source (in this case a ceramic) and set the dimmer so it is on most of the time to achieve the desire temperature.
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  Original Poster   #20  
Old 09-Aug-04, 09:26 AM
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Thanks Herptrader, Its had a stable gradient 32 hot end~ 24 cool end overnight, Seems to be ok with steady humidity now of 49c ~53% :wink:
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