Forums Rules Register
Go Back   Aussie Pythons and Snakes > The Zoo > Herp Help
     
Notices

Recent Herp Discussion
Hypomelanistic Boa...
Last post by boa
Today 06:26 AM
burning wire
by Frank
Last post by Frank
Today 06:21 AM
Harold Cogger Book
Last post by JasonL
Today 06:21 AM
Closed Thread
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1  
Old 21-Dec-05, 10:13 PM
stencorp69's Avatar
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr-05
Location: Perth WA
Posts: 566
Sick Stimson

While I was away on holidays (4 weeks) one of my male Stimsons became ill and I'm after some comments on my setup to see where I need to make changes to try to prevent it happening again. The condition appears to be a respiratory infection and scale rot - Vet will confirm this tomorrow - which from the books I've read indicate excessive cold or humidity and poor sanitory conditions. I've included as much detail about the setup as I can and anything that I think is relavant.

Setup

5 stimsons (2m 3F) housed in the same cage together

Cage size 1200W X 1000H X 500D, on wheels, front glass doors, sides made of MDF, 2 X 100 vents half way up cage back. Cage located inside, in a carpeted room by a window.

Dual Fluro lighting

Heat is supplied by an incadesance red reflector light from the cage roof and connected to a thermostat located in between the two vents in the middle of the cage back panel. The thermostat was set to 29C and is timed for 12hours 6AM-6PM a day all year. The temperature gradient was 25C to 29C.

I since increased the temperature to 31C and added a heat rock which is on permanently.

Up until a month ago (just prior to going on holidays) I used crushed walnut shells as a substrate but after some advice regarding its potential to cause illness if injested I changed to breeders choice. During the change over I completely disinfected the cage and all bowls and hides. I regularly (fortnightly) disinfect the water bowls and hides and weekly changed the water. I daily or at the most every second day remove the defecation.

The water bowl is not excessive 300MM X 150MM and there are plenty of hides.

Observations

The male in questions has not eaten since puchased at the end of August and appears to be about to shed (milky eyes)

One of the females purchased at the same time and housed in the same enclosure has not eaten either but has no signs of scale rot or breathing difficulties - she is a young python and has just shed her skin.

The other three Stimson are feeding really well and eating well and putting on weight and show no signs of illness.

Any advice would be appreciated

Sten
  #2  
Old 21-Dec-05, 10:23 PM
MrBredli's Avatar
Retired Snake
Subscriber
Join Date: Aug-05
Location: Western Sydney
Age/Gender: 25 Male
Posts: 7,377
I think the obvious/first recommendation is to isolate any sick snakes immediately to prevent anything being passed on.

I think where you may have gone wrong originally is having the heat off at night, perhaps the temps were dropping too low?
__________________
Rekognize: All comments are made with tongue in cheek.

In case of suspension, catch me at m_bredli@hotmail.com
  Original Poster   #3  
Old 21-Dec-05, 10:38 PM
stencorp69's Avatar
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr-05
Location: Perth WA
Posts: 566
Quote:
I think the obvious/first recommendation is to isolate any sick snakes immediately to prevent anything being passed on.
Thanks MrBredli - yes I've done this.

As for the night time temps you may be correct as we have had a very cool start to summer in the west. I have added the heat rock to address this if is is an issue.
  #4  
Old 21-Dec-05, 10:47 PM
africancichlidau's Avatar
Regular Member
Join Date: Jan-03
Location: Melbourne O>I>G>L Souly!
Posts: 9,443
Is it only the heat rock which is on permanently? What wattage is the globe? I take it the globe is on the roof of the enclosure and that there is only one?
Sounds to me like there is a definate lack of heat around the enclosure if the above is the case. With 5, you did say 5?, snakes in the one enclosure the more submissive ones are going to be permanently stressed and constantly prone to disease because of it.
  Original Poster   #5  
Old 21-Dec-05, 11:15 PM
stencorp69's Avatar
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr-05
Location: Perth WA
Posts: 566
Quote:
Is it only the heat rock which is on permanently?
Yes - I've only just added it.

Quote:
What wattage is the globe?
The globe is 250W

Quote:
I take it the globe is on the roof of the enclosure and that there is only one?
Yes at one end

Quote:
With 5, you did say 5?,
Yes - the snake with the illness (now seperated) is the largest of the group - but I had observed that he was quite restless. I didn't think that 5 was excessive given that the cage size is sufficient and many books suggest that this is OK for Stimsons. I take it this isn't common then?
  #6  
Old 21-Dec-05, 11:17 PM
Regular Member
Join Date: Mar-04
Location: Perth WA
Posts: 213
Heat sound like an issue, as to does housing 5 together. That sounds like a really unhealthy and stressful situation for the animals.
  Original Poster   #7  
Old 21-Dec-05, 11:26 PM
stencorp69's Avatar
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr-05
Location: Perth WA
Posts: 566
Quote:
Heat sound like an issue,
What temperature should I keep them at? What would be a better temperature gradient?
  #8  
Old 21-Dec-05, 11:27 PM
africancichlidau's Avatar
Regular Member
Join Date: Jan-03
Location: Melbourne O>I>G>L Souly!
Posts: 9,443
Mate, the enclosure could take 5 stimmies no problem, but, the problem comes from it being un-natural for 5 snakes to exist in such close proximity. A lot of people may disagree with me and in the end it is up to you to make your own decision but to my way of thinking the enclosure is way overpopulated. I'm not saying that this is the definate, or only, cause of your current problem but I really do believe it to be a contributory factor.
  #9  
Old 21-Dec-05, 11:32 PM
africancichlidau's Avatar
Regular Member
Join Date: Jan-03
Location: Melbourne O>I>G>L Souly!
Posts: 9,443
My Stimmies, (T.C.), are kept individually apart from breeding attempts, at 31 degrees hot end. Cool ends range from 24 to 26 degrees C.
  Original Poster   #10  
Old 21-Dec-05, 11:32 PM
stencorp69's Avatar
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr-05
Location: Perth WA
Posts: 566
Quote:
Mate, the enclosure could take 5 stimmies no problem, but, the problem comes from it being un-natural for 5 snakes to exist in such close proximity
What do you think would be acceptable and in what ratio - ie male to female
  #11  
Old 21-Dec-05, 11:34 PM
africancichlidau's Avatar
Regular Member
Join Date: Jan-03
Location: Melbourne O>I>G>L Souly!
Posts: 9,443
Oops, think I answered this before you asked it Lol
  Original Poster   #12  
Old 21-Dec-05, 11:34 PM
stencorp69's Avatar
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr-05
Location: Perth WA
Posts: 566
Quote:
My Stimmies, (T.C.), are kept individually apart from breeding attempts, at 31 degrees hot end. Cool ends range from 24 to 26 degrees C.
Sorry posting lag
  #13  
Old 21-Dec-05, 11:35 PM
africancichlidau's Avatar
Regular Member
Join Date: Jan-03
Location: Melbourne O>I>G>L Souly!
Posts: 9,443
Roflmao Gotta love "the net"
  #14  
Old 21-Dec-05, 11:36 PM
africancichlidau's Avatar
Regular Member
Join Date: Jan-03
Location: Melbourne O>I>G>L Souly!
Posts: 9,443
Just out of interest, what locality are your Stimmies?
  Original Poster   #15  
Old 21-Dec-05, 11:37 PM
stencorp69's Avatar
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr-05
Location: Perth WA
Posts: 566
WA Wheat Belt
Closed Thread

Bookmarks

Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sw Qld Stimson viridis For Sale (Snakes) 8 14-Oct-07 06:22 PM
my new stimson MAVTOR General Herps 5 26-Jun-07 08:10 AM
stimson Amon Australian Snakes 6 31-May-07 12:30 AM
new stimson newtosnakes Australian Snakes 15 26-Oct-05 08:55 PM
Stimson ate!!!! Australian Snakes 5 12-Jun-03 09:13 PM


All times are GMT +10. The time now is 06:27 AM.