cooling stoped

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I think there is one thing for everyone to remember and that is that your animals are yours and no one elses, You do what you with your animals so long as they are healthy then it doesn't matter. You don't have to do what others do. Me myself?? Well at the moment I am cooling four of mine and the rest are at a more stable and higher temp. Those that I am cooling I still feed albeit at a smaller amount then I would normally if I wasn't cooling them. I have those that are cooling set between 22 - 25 degrees. Some will say make it cooler and some will say make it warmer and to them I say "WHATEVER" I have always done it my way and have had pretty good results. Anyway all this babble translates into "Do what makes you happy"
 
craig said:
i keep diamonds in an avairy in sydney temps and they are still active at 15 degrees!!! the coldest it has been this year is 8!!!
i went outside this morning when it was 10 degrees and they were all still in the braches and not in their hide boxes.

This is the first year I have kept my diamonds outside in an avairy and have been seeing more of them during the day now than in summer. During summer they stayed in their hide boxes during the day and would move around the cage at night. At the moment theyre on the branches by about 10:30am and basking until about 3pm then in their boxes after that.

cheers

Jonny
 
My understanding is that cooling is required to "synchronise the breeding effort" and cooling to improve sperm production etc. etc. has never been demonstated to be fact.

For some of the northern Australian pythons the winter overnight lows rarely drop below the mid 20's. A breeder friend of mine in NT says that for Olives, Black Headed's etc. that what triggers them into breeding mode is a cold snap when the temperature at night drops from 30C odd to 25C and they are straight at it ... no prolonged cooling required.

For Diamonds, Vic's and other "cooler climate" pythons I would imagine that similar principles apply. When the temperature is too low for they stop feeding but this is because they cannot digest their meal not because they are preparing for procreation.
 
The snakes shouldn't really be loosing wieght while in brumation.I would get a fecal exam done.
 
Brumation is as Nome says the cooling. As you have seen snakes do not completey hibernate like a Bear does. They do still remain active albeit they are not very active,they are none the less active and that is why it is Brumation, not Hibernation. To answer the original Question, if you started cooling him or her early March, then he may have had enough cooling by now, I started cooling my Diamonds on the 10th of March and reintroduced them the other day and they started breeding the next day, so now to wait and see if they done any good. Get the snake of to the vet for a fecal exam and just start feeding and warming him up. Better to have a really fit, healthy snake for next years breeding program.
 
he's been to the vet i was told to warm him up ,feed and worm him so thats what im doing ,how long should i wait to feed him started warming yesterday.
 
Try feeding him now. If he doesn't eat try again tomorrow. That is if you aren't chucking away defrosted foods all the time. I would try him every day untill he eats. If he is wasting away fast, I would get him some flagyl from the vet and dose him for flagulettes. Snakes REALLY shouldn't loose to much wieght while in brumation, if he is then there is a reason for it, and it is really heartbreaking to find out the hard way,(which is the snake dying).
 
i dont intend on letting him die ,i did try him tonight but no go so ill have to go get some fresh food tomorrow as im now out
 
I agree with adam that snake should not loose weight if is cooling and is not active.
One of my snake is with out food 6 months a year and always in good condition after cooling.
Mabe there is some different problem Adam.
 
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