Woodies

N. cinerea or more commonly known as the Woodie are an easy way to keep your insectivores herps happy.
I myself breed these for my frogs and monitors. There are a few reasons I breed Woodies and not crickets.

Easy to keep and breed.
Live for up to a year.
Equally as acceptable to reptiles & amphibians as other foods.
Perfect for Dragons, Geckos, Skinks, Monitors and frogs.
Unlike crickets, they almost ‘thrive on neglect’.

N. cinerea are false ovoviviparous, in which the the oothecae (a cellular egg case) contain 26 – 40 eggs, these hatch into nymphs as the female extrudes the ootheca from the brood sac; they shed their embryonic membrane as they hatch and eat both it and the ootheca.

Biology of Nauphoeta cinerea based on Laboratory Data (Averages) at 30° C:

Minimum period between molt to adult copulation - 6 days in both sexes

Interval between molt to adult and production of first ootheca - 13 days

Interval between moult to adult and hatch of first brood - 44 days

Interval between hatch of successive broods - 1st – 2nd, 40 days
- 7th – 8th, 99 days

Average broods per female - 6

Incubation period in brood sac- 36 days

Eggs per ootheca- 33

Hatched eggs per ootheca - 31

Percentage of hatched insects that matured - 99%

Number of moults - 7 – 8


Adult Life Span:
Males - 365 days
Females - 344 days



As said before Woodies will thrive on neglect if they very basic husbandry parameters are met. These include proper holding containers, temperature, hygiene and food.

The only disadvantage with Woodies, is there ability to climb most materials such as glass, wood and plastic. This problem can easily be solved with a teflon based paint known as Fluon AD1. Vaseline can also be used although this can be a little messy.

N. cinerea can be kept in large storage tubs from Bunnings or Crazy Clark type stores with a fitted lid. The dimensions of my Woodie colony is 40cm by 50 cm by 15cm. These tubs should have ample ventilation, this can be achieved by cutting out the middle of a lid and replacing it with flyscreen. Use a hot soldering iron to melt the fly screen into place.




Provide the insects with hiding spots by utilizing cardboard egg-crates and rolls. To increase the surface area of the colony ensure that your cardboard is stacked neatly.

Heating should not be needed untill winter. I use a simple heat mat to keep them at a stable 30 degrees Celsius during the colder months.

Food can supplied in the form of dry cat/dog biscuits or rat pellets. Vegetables such as carrots are a great source of food and moisture. I supply no water at all, other than the few mist of water every few days when I go to check on my other animals.

References
http://www.herpshop.com.au/index.html