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Tamer101

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I’ve had my Aussie python for about a month and I hold and must her everyday I can.But one day(on feeding day) I held her and she bit me twice.Obviously it was my mistake because she was hungry.I had to tear her off my hands so she’d let go.I use gloves now but am slowly moving into my hands.Its 3 days away from feeding day and she was about a centimeter away from biting me when I pulled off my glove.At first she wrapped around my pinkie which I thought was fine and I tried to put her back in her cage.She didn’t,she didn’t move a muscle,no tongue flicking or anything.I started shaking because I knew she was going to bite my pinkie she eventually went right up to my pinkie and tried biting it which I pulled away and put her back in her cage.Im still shaking because it’s my first snake.I get elevated hiding spots and she doesn’t use it.I try to get her everything she needs but she never uses them.Im going to try a different elevate hide and hopefully that works.For now,I’m leaving her alone for about a week.I don’t know what to do to make her happy.Sorry if this was too long!


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what are you feeding her at the moment? what type of python? what temperatures are you getting on both cool and hot end? pictures???
Well,she keeps trying to bite me.Is that a sign of happiness?


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Some snakes dont want to be held and are just like that...
 
I am not 100% sure what you are asking, but answering those questions above will help.

Are you asking how to stop the snake from biting? It sounds like you are describing a food/hunger response so letting us know details about food size relative to the snake will help a little bit. Chances are that increasing the meal will solve it.
Still, I wouldn't be handling the snake every day - That's a bit much. If you are getting defensive bites (quickly strikes and releases, lots of 'S' posing) then let the thing settle in and calm down.

I hold and must her everyday

What does this sentence mean? Are you misting her?
 
Is it a hatching?
If its eating then things are good. I have a yearling that is still very defensive, bites my wife every time she gets him out , has only tagged me twice. He is still in a tub set up that is not ideal but his custom made enclosure is almost finished and will pick it up in a week or so. He hisses alot now rather than striking .
I have a Super zebra. What do you have?
 
Well,she keeps trying to bite me.Is that a sign of happiness?


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It's not an indication of unhappiness. Sounds like it's a good time to learn a bit about snakes. With most species of pythons (you haven't told us what species or what age she is) most of them will bite you as hatchlings. That doesn't mean all of them come into the world unhappy. Pick up a wild python of any age and handle it carelessly and it will probably bite you. That doesn't mean they are all unhappy. Walk into a room full of happy pythons and throw a rat in their cage and they'll all ferociously bite the rats. I bet you wouldn't walk up to a Death Adder, Tiger Snake or Taipan and pick it up, right? And that's not because you fear it is unhappy. I could tell you an Eastern Brown is perfectly content and even if you 100% believe me I'm sure you wouldn't go and pick it up, and with your level of experience and skill neither should you.

Snakes are not social animals and they are not domesticated. Dogs will instinctively seek out human contact and be affectionate towards humans and other animals, snakes won't. Handling a snake is more like handling a fish than playing with a dog. Dogs need socialisation and love it to come from humans, snakes don't even benefit from it.

To determine if your snake is happy can be difficult for a beginner. The first and easiest sign to look for is that it feeds enthusiastically. Enthusiastic feeding is a good indication the snake us either happy or starving; when there is a problem snakes usually won't eat, but sometimes if they are extremely hungry they'll eat anyway. The next is a health check. A behavioural check for happiness requires a fair bit of experience because a happy, healthy snake will often just sit coiled up under a rock or in a burrow or in a hide box almost all the time (species differ so it's impossible to comment on yours), and an unhappy snake will often do much the same. Other species have all sorts of variations on behaviour which mostly don't relate to how well things are going, so it's difficult to describe in a short message. There are obvious examples like a snake constantly trying to get away from the heat and not eating (this snake would be heat stressed), but generally it's not so obvious.

Picking up a snake with poor handling skills and shaking hands will get plenty of very happy snakes to bite you, including quite a few snakes which usually handle well and don't bite.

First priority is to make sure your snake is happy (it probably already is, and you can give us relevant information to ascertain that if you like). Once we know she's happy you can start handling if you wish. It seems like handling your snake is important to you which is fine, and you have a fear of snakes and limited understanding of how to handle a snake which is a bad combination with a desire to do it. An important thing for you to learn is that if a snake bites you, never tear it off your body. This will hurt you more, hurt the snake more, and in some cases cause serious injury to you and/or the snake.

The good news is that if the snake bit you and tried to hold on it was probably a feeding bite, and a snake will generally only give a human a feeding bite if it feels safe and strong and content (happy). When they give a fear bite they will generally not hang on, they will just give a quick snap, let go and either attempt to flee or sit in a threatening pose ready to bite again, hoping that you will want to flee.

Almost all snake keepers I know have been bitten, including most of the ones who work with deadly snakes and including the most skilled handlers I know. Getting bitten once in a while is almost a guarantee with snakes and if you want to enjoy freehandling snakes it's something you need to accept as a reality and lose your fear of, which will mean less bites. Snakes can't literally smell fear, but there is some truth to the story that they can detect it. A trembling hand indicates fear. Fear is an indication that you anticipate some sort of negative interaction is likely. If you fear a snake and are approaching it, the snake will be likely to fear you. Being calm and confident is important for both of you.

If you want to give more relevant information and ask specific questions we may be able to help.
 
what are you feeding her at the moment? what type of python? what temperatures are you getting on both cool and hot end? pictures???


Some snakes dont want to be held and are just like that...

Got it.Shes a Australian Jungle python,otherwise known as a Carpet Python.I feed her pinkies once a week.I do have a basking temp in the middle of the enclosure and the cool side would be in the bottom of the cage.I would give you pics but I’m not at my moms house.Shes about a year old I think.Theres not a lot of info on this type of snake but I managed to get a care sheet for it.I may need a new bulb but I’ll get back on the accurate temps on both sides of the cage.


I am not 100% sure what you are asking, but answering those questions above will help.

Are you asking how to stop the snake from biting? It sounds like you are describing a food/hunger response so letting us know details about food size relative to the snake will help a little bit. Chances are that increasing the meal will solve it.
Still, I wouldn't be handling the snake every day - That's a bit much. If you are getting defensive bites (quickly strikes and releases, lots of 'S' posing) then let the thing settle in and calm down.



What does this sentence mean? Are you misting her?

Yes misting her,sorry.The guy my mom bought her from said he never mentioned humidity!!!Then my mom told me to hold it every day.The guy she bought it from may be a little stupid if he doesn’t know about humidity.Ill put some research in on the feeding thing.But for now it’s pinkies once a week.I won’t handle it everyday.Im not even at my moms everyday.Ill handle her 2-3 times a week from now on.


Is it a hatching?
If its eating then things are good. I have a yearling that is still very defensive, bites my wife every time she gets him out , has only tagged me twice. He is still in a tub set up that is not ideal but his custom made enclosure is almost finished and will pick it up in a week or so. He hisses alot now rather than striking .
I have a Super zebra. What do you have?

I’m still kinda new to this app so I thought an Aussie python was an Australian jungle python lol.Its about a year old I think.


It's not an indication of unhappiness. Sounds like it's a good time to learn a bit about snakes. With most species of pythons (you haven't told us what species or what age she is) most of them will bite you as hatchlings. That doesn't mean all of them come into the world unhappy. Pick up a wild python of any age and handle it carelessly and it will probably bite you. That doesn't mean they are all unhappy. Walk into a room full of happy pythons and throw a rat in their cage and they'll all ferociously bite the rats. I bet you wouldn't walk up to a Death Adder, Tiger Snake or Taipan and pick it up, right? And that's not because you fear it is unhappy. I could tell you an Eastern Brown is perfectly content and even if you 100% believe me I'm sure you wouldn't go and pick it up, and with your level of experience and skill neither should you.

Snakes are not social animals and they are not domesticated. Dogs will instinctively seek out human contact and be affectionate towards humans and other animals, snakes won't. Handling a snake is more like handling a fish than playing with a dog. Dogs need socialisation and love it to come from humans, snakes don't even benefit from it.

To determine if your snake is happy can be difficult for a beginner. The first and easiest sign to look for is that it feeds enthusiastically. Enthusiastic feeding is a good indication the snake us either happy or starving; when there is a problem snakes usually won't eat, but sometimes if they are extremely hungry they'll eat anyway. The next is a health check. A behavioural check for happiness requires a fair bit of experience because a happy, healthy snake will often just sit coiled up under a rock or in a burrow or in a hide box almost all the time (species differ so it's impossible to comment on yours), and an unhappy snake will often do much the same. Other species have all sorts of variations on behaviour which mostly don't relate to how well things are going, so it's difficult to describe in a short message. There are obvious examples like a snake constantly trying to get away from the heat and not eating (this snake would be heat stressed), but generally it's not so obvious.

Picking up a snake with poor handling skills and shaking hands will get plenty of very happy snakes to bite you, including quite a few snakes which usually handle well and don't bite.

First priority is to make sure your snake is happy (it probably already is, and you can give us relevant information to ascertain that if you like). Once we know she's happy you can start handling if you wish. It seems like handling your snake is important to you which is fine, and you have a fear of snakes and limited understanding of how to handle a snake which is a bad combination with a desire to do it. An important thing for you to learn is that if a snake bites you, never tear it off your body. This will hurt you more, hurt the snake more, and in some cases cause serious injury to you and/or the snake.

The good news is that if the snake bit you and tried to hold on it was probably a feeding bite, and a snake will generally only give a human a feeding bite if it feels safe and strong and content (happy). When they give a fear bite they will generally not hang on, they will just give a quick snap, let go and either attempt to flee or sit in a threatening pose ready to bite again, hoping that you will want to flee.

Almost all snake keepers I know have been bitten, including most of the ones who work with deadly snakes and including the most skilled handlers I know. Getting bitten once in a while is almost a guarantee with snakes and if you want to enjoy freehandling snakes it's something you need to accept as a reality and lose your fear of, which will mean less bites. Snakes can't literally smell fear, but there is some truth to the story that they can detect it. A trembling hand indicates fear. Fear is an indication that you anticipate some sort of negative interaction is likely. If you fear a snake and are approaching it, the snake will be likely to fear you. Being calm and confident is important for both of you.

If you want to give more relevant information and ask specific questions we may be able to help.

Thank you so much!!Im still kinda new to the snake community and this app.So,I though an Aussie Python was an Australian Jingle Python(which is what the snake is).Thats my mistake.Shes about 1 year old.Since the type of species she is,she likes lo climb and stay elevated at all cost which is very hard to have a cool spot and hot spot in an elevated area.Next time I wont try to rip it off my body.But when it went for my pinkie I don’t think it knew how long it was and would try to digest it before realizing it can’t.I’ll try to loose my phobia for snakes.Its not strong,I just don’t like when they bite(like any human being).I also have another question.Everytime I mist her,she does this sort of upside down thing I can’t really explain.Ill get a picture ASAP when I can.Before I actually got the snake I’ve looked up tons of vids of people setting up there cages,handling,and feeding for specifically ball pythons.My mom got me a Australian Jungle python which has barely any videos on.But I do try to do what I learn from vids.Ive also heard that they are more aggressive when they are shedding.But that can’t be the case because she shed less than a month ago.Thanks a lot for you’re help and I really appreciate it!


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This to me sounds more like a inexperience issue as well as all previous mentioned concerns. Perhaps talk to and go see a fellow keeper and get them to help guide you with handling? There are plenty of YouTube videos on this topic new england reptiles videos are quite informative in keeping and handling skills.

On a side note it could be just your snake, I have a male bhp who for the life of me constantly wants to bite me. My partner who was petrified of snakes prior to living with a house full of them can pick him up and hold him with ease and he quite enjoys it. Where in contrast I have a female woma who no one can handle feed touch etc. Where as to me she is a puppy, I let her out on the ground near my feet when doing general cleaning etc and she's follows me. They're reptiles and they're weird snakes are snakes and could just be a bity fella you got
 
This to me sounds more like a inexperience issue as well as all previous mentioned concerns. Perhaps talk to and go see a fellow keeper and get them to help guide you with handling? There are plenty of YouTube videos on this topic new england reptiles videos are quite informative in keeping and handling skills.

On a side note it could be just your snake, I have a male bhp who for the life of me constantly wants to bite me. My partner who was petrified of snakes prior to living with a house full of them can pick him up and hold him with ease and he quite enjoys it. Where in contrast I have a female woma who no one can handle feed touch etc. Where as to me she is a puppy, I let her out on the ground near my feet when doing general cleaning etc and she's follows me. They're reptiles and they're weird snakes are snakes and could just be a bity fella you got

I try my best to look up videos on Australian Jungle pythons,so I don’t really know what to do with mine.Its relatively young and about 1 year old.If I can’t find vids on that specific snake then I look at the first one that pops up which is for a ball python.I get most of my info from those videos.


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YouTube will be hard to find that sort for particular species. Alot of snake husbandry and practices are fairly broad. In regards to hygiene cold and hot temps. Hides humidity. Alot of practices can be used among many species. Importantly learn some quarantine practices it's so uncommon for reptile keepers to have it and it can and will eventually save you many heart aches. Post questions on husbandry here if need be. You might get some trolls but most are genuine and want to help other and share knowledge
 
YouTube will be hard to find that sort for particular species. Alot of snake husbandry and practices are fairly broad. In regards to hygiene cold and hot temps. Hides humidity. Alot of practices can be used among many species. Importantly learn some quarantine practices it's so uncommon for reptile keepers to have it and it can and will eventually save you many heart aches. Post questions on husbandry here if need be. You might get some trolls but most are genuine and want to help other and share knowledge

Sounds good!I also try to use Safari a lot and is where of found my care sheet for it.But since it’s going the feeding may be off.Thanks for the help!


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If your highly new to snakes my best bit of advice is don't freak if it doesn't eat. Some times they won't eat. Even when healthy, my bhp male gets extra food going into winter cause he won't eat over winter. Don't think it's the end of the world if they haven't eaten in two weeks and then sell it off. Sounds weird but that's how I got my woma cheap. But like I've said. Research and if you can't find anything specific ask on this forum. Good luck with it all
 
If it's a year old and only being fed pinkies it's biting because it's hungry. A 12 month old Carpet should fed a minimum of 2 adult mice or a weaner rat regularly every 10 - 14 days. If the enclosure is set up correctly (and from the limited info you've provided it doesn't sound like it is. I may be wrong but only pics of the enclosure will prove that either way) you shouldn't need to mist the critter at all.

Forget about Youtube vids. Here's a couple of links to basic care sheets and there's plenty of other online care advice...just Google Carpet Python Care Sheet.

https://www.vhs.com.au/keeping-reptiles/carpet-pythons/

http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Carpet-Python-Care-Sheet/
 
If your highly new to snakes my best bit of advice is don't freak if it doesn't eat. Some times they won't eat. Even when healthy, my bhp male gets extra food going into winter cause he won't eat over winter. Don't think it's the end of the world if they haven't eaten in two weeks and then sell it off. Sounds weird but that's how I got my woma cheap. But like I've said. Research and if you can't find anything specific ask on this forum. Good luck with it all

Sounds good!But how does your snake know if it’s winter.I have a 75 watt 24H bulb.Which I might replace with a 100watt 24H bulb.Or should I just get a day and night cycle bulbs?


If it's a year old and only being fed pinkies it's biting because it's hungry. A 12 month old Carpet should fed a minimum of 2 adult mice or a weaner rat regularly every 10 - 14 days. If the enclosure is set up correctly (and from the limited info you've provided it doesn't sound like it is. I may be wrong but only pics of the enclosure will prove that either way) you shouldn't need to mist the critter at all.

Forget about Youtube vids. Here's a couple of links to basic care sheets and there's plenty of other online care advice...just Google Carpet Python Care Sheet.

https://www.vhs.com.au/keeping-reptiles/carpet-pythons/

http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Carpet-Python-Care-Sheet/

These links will help me lots!Ill make sure to look over them carefully to make sure I get everything it needs to be.


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I personally use heat cords on all my enclosures aside from my bhp which has a ceramic heat bulb. 60w all are on controllers. Some people will run during day etc I just let the controller do it's thing and it keeps temp perfect. Wise investment most will have them.

Snakes will know. I defrost my rats in a shopping container about 150m from the house they know it's happening and all ready when I come back. They're clever creatures.
 
Sounds good!But how does your snake know if it’s winter.I have a 75 watt 24H bulb.Which I might replace with a 100watt 24H bulb.Or should I just get a day and night cycle bulbs?


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During summer you should be providing heat for about 14hrs during the day (say 6am-8pm) and then you can lower this amount during winter to say 8-4

Definitely up the feed size, at 1 year old I was giving my Darwin 50g rats

A good way to know appropriate food size is to weigh the snake (easiest to weigh a pillow case then put snake in pillow case and weigh again, do some quick subtractions) and get 20% of that number and then find a food size = to that 20% weight

Here’s a pretty standard (a little cheaper than most) weight guide/ price guide from breeders

9EDFB067-68C5-4F33-BE1C-C27B9EE33CFE.jpeg
 
Both my snakes are jungles and im getting a third very soon. If i can help you i will. You certain its 12 months old? Hpw long is it?
My yearling is on weaner rats every 2 weeks or so.
Can you post a picture?
 
I add to the thread not as an experienced reptile owner but as a part time friend of an in and out again wild bluetongue that visits when it wants too

assorted wildlife comes to my home, hand feeding is common place

id have to admit from a future ownership perspective, something with legs wins out over any manner of snake

your experience sounds honestly unnerving at best

I took the time to visit a professional reptile store on the weekend, brought some mealworms for my wild feathered and scale covered friends (they look tasty tbh)

in comparison to snakes, the bearded dragons and bluetongues present in this store had a beautiful calmness, friendlyness about them. something that the snakes just didnt have

I havent read all the replies forgive me if im re-hashing something already said

perhaps you can return the snake and stick to reptiles with legs? in nsw atleast the law says any unwanted reptile can be returned for rehoming, its part of the reptile sellers legal requirements

i admit its not the nicest solution but maybe a logical one with a happy ending
 
Both my snakes are jungles and im getting a third very soon. If i can help you i will. You certain its 12 months old? Hpw long is it?
My yearling is on weaner rats every 2 weeks or so.
Can you post a picture?

I’ll have to get back to you on the questions you asked.But,I do have some questions myself.How do you get an elevated hide?Should I have dense amount of branches?How do I get a cool and hot side?What do you use to mist?Everytime I mist mine it does a weird upside down thing and kinda does this thing I can’t explain.I can get a picture when I can.My mom also said they need sunlight,I personally don’t think that’s true.Should I have an elevated water bowl?Should I have a lot of leaves and branches?Sorry if this was too many questions.Thanks for the help!


During summer you should be providing heat for about 14hrs during the day (say 6am-8pm) and then you can lower this amount during winter to say 8-4

Definitely up the feed size, at 1 year old I was giving my Darwin 50g rats

A good way to know appropriate food size is to weigh the snake (easiest to weigh a pillow case then put snake in pillow case and weigh again, do some quick subtractions) and get 20% of that number and then find a food size = to that 20% weight

Here’s a pretty standard (a little cheaper than most) weight guide/ price guide from breeders

View attachment 328377

I’ll make sure to weigh her when I can!Thanks for the help,Ill make sure to use what you said/posted.


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