THERMO installation

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kupper

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Hi Guys

i know ill get the lecture of get a trained pro to wire your enclosure but im sick of paying sparkies rediculoyus dollars for an hours work

does anyone know the true wire configuration to connect up a thermostat to an enclosure??

there is six points

points one is for positive and point 4 is for negative these are for mains power but where does the outgoing ( light bulbs heating source) cords go

points 2 ,3 5 ,6 are still vacant and i dont know which to connect them too



any help form the semi qualified elctrical follk out there would be great

Cheers guys:)

chris
 
Hi Chris,

Unfortunately, it is illegal for a non electrical person to be wiring something up for hte house.

For the sake of the few bucks it is worth the peace of mind to have someone that knows what they are doing do it properly, also the other thing, i wired up an enclosure myself a long time ago, and found that i was blowing lights every week or so. After having a mate who is a sparky come and have a go, i didnt have an issue. So though i had it hooked up right, i.e. right order etc, it still was an average job and cost me a bit in replacing globes.

Sorry couldnt be of any help

Cheers
Dustin
 
if you said which thermostat, or put a pic of the connectors, you may get a response but i doubt it.
if you cant afford the 50 for a sparky to do it, just remember to make a will before you kill yourself.
all thermos should have a schematic drawing sold with it. so maybe google it cos we will not like to see your post total stop at 20
 
any who anyone else got any ideas

Buy a different type of thermostat that is already wired like the Habistat ones from the Herp Shop.

I used the "mat stats" with heat tape in many of my enclosures and find that they actually work out cheaper once you take into account the buying fittings etc.

hs_hb_MatStat.jpg
Name Mat Thermostat Rating 100 watts Type Switching Price
$70.00 each
Instructions
  • Economic probe thermostat that switches on and off at the desired temperature.
  • Similar to the Temperature Thermostat but designed for smaller heat sources up to 100 watts.
  • Ideal for controlling the temperature in most smaller enclosures
  • NOT Suitable for use with light bulbs
 
As cos666 said, without the wiring diagram or the make and model of the thermostat it is very hard to say what goes where.
Being a sparky, I really recommend getting it done by a licensed tradesman, even connections that look fine can cause serious problems
 
Buy a different type of thermostat that is already wired like the Habistat ones from the Herp Shop.

I used the "mat stats" with heat tape in many of my enclosures and find that they actually work out cheaper once you take into account the buying fittings etc.

hs_hb_MatStat.jpg

Name Mat Thermostat Rating 100 watts Type Switching Price
$70.00 each


Instructions
  • Economic probe thermostat that switches on and off at the desired temperature.
  • Similar to the Temperature Thermostat but designed for smaller heat sources up to 100 watts.
  • Ideal for controlling the temperature in most smaller enclosures
  • NOT Suitable for use with light bulbs

I use these on my hatchie racks and small racks that don't have more then 100watts on them. Great lil stats. Work a treat.
 
As cos666 said, without the wiring diagram or the make and model of the thermostat it is very hard to say what goes where.
Being a sparky, I really recommend getting it done by a licensed tradesman, even connections that look fine can cause serious problems

Correct. You are paying for the sparkies knowledge as well as piece of mind that your house wont burn down due faulty connections/installation..

Its a licensed trade for a reason.

Im sure your reptiles cost more than the sparky bill will...;)

I`m a sparky in Melb by the way, pm me and i might be able to help you out.
cant guarantee i wont charge you a rediculous price though... just kidding..:lol:
(kidding about the price, i should be able to assist you in the wiring.)
 
Correct. You are paying for the sparkies knowledge as well as piece of mind that your house wont burn down due faulty connections/installation..

Its a licensed trade for a reason.

Im sure your reptiles cost more than the sparky bill will...;)

I`m a sparky in Melb by the way, pm me and i might be able to help you out.
cant guarantee i wont charge you a rediculous price though... just kidding..:lol:
(kidding about the price, i should be able to assist you in the wiring.)

Where are you, might have use for you in the future.
 
what kind is it. i wire everything up myself, i have had some training in electrics, but it's not rocket science. (sorry hallie) usually you can google the scematic diagram.
 
Sorry, this doesn't exactly answer your question, Kupper, but thought it was a good opportunity to mention a little bit of advice we were told at our local herp meeting.

Although I still have a couple thermostats, best piece of advice we were given at one of our Herp Meetings is learning the use of heat equipment without needing a thermostat. Thermostats are great for stopping temps getting high and there are set ups such as incubators that do need them, but what happens when the thermostat fails and the heat source is blaring at his maximum strength? Coming from a reputable person in our area, at our herp meeting he says if you need a thermostat to stop a light or heatmat or whatever getting too hot in your enclosure, your heat source is too powerful. Downsize until your light bulb or heatmat so that you don't need the thermostat. Saves a lot of hassles, money and heartbreak. You don't need a mat the size of your python. Placing a tile over a 10W heatmat spreads the heat out very efficiently. I didn't believe him and tried it with two 10W mats. But my pythons will not go near the warm end when both mats are on. Turn one off, they are happy.

I have lost two thermostats and am not replacing them. Instead, I have gone to lower wattage lights and small heat mats or cords. Only equipment I now have thermostats on is my hatchie rack and one is turned off and saving its use for my incubator.
 
Last edited:
Sorry, this doesn't exactly answer your question, Kupper, but thought it was a good opportunity to mention a little bit of advice we were told at our local herp meeting.

Although I still have a couple thermostats, best piece of advice we were given at one of our Herp Meetings is learning the use of heat equipment without needing a thermostat. Thermostats are great for stopping temps getting high and there are set ups such as incubators that do need them, but what happens when the thermostat fails and the heat source is blaring at his maximum strength? Coming from a reputable person in our area, at our herp meeting he says if you need a thermostat to stop a light or heatmat or whatever getting too hot in your enclosure, your heat source is too powerful. Downsize until your light bulb or heatmat so that you don't need the thermostat. Saves a lot of hassles, money and heartbreak. I have lost two thermostats and am not replacing them. Instead, I have gone to lower wattage lights and small heat mats or cords. Only equipment I now have thermostats on is my hatchie rack and one is turned off and saving its use for my incubator.
thats all and good if you live in a hot area but if its cold you still need one :D
 
once upon a time dad could have done it for me but the old koot went blind and cant exactly do thing things anymore ,

Brian i just ordered everything from you ya bugger !!!! probably should have read the advert on the website hey

I have always traditionally run thermos because its a lot easier when your at work and not waiting to do research on how hot it actually gets , some people have to go to work unfortunantly

Hallie sent you a pm mate your services will be much appreciated !!! and sparkies charge more then $50 these days to wire it up for you try $150 if they miraculously make time to come out to do a small job


thanks to all for the suggestions much appreciated !

Regards
chris
 
well thermos will do me fine, now i just got to wire the blighters in
 
thats all and good if you live in a hot area but if its cold you still need one :D

the below is correct, when it's cold in winter, all you need do is up the wattage, ie 2 x 25w may be right for summer and 2 x 40w may be the same temp in winter, it will save your globes as well, with not going on and off all day :D

if you need a thermostat to stop a light or heatmat or whatever getting too hot in your enclosure, your heat source is too powerful. Downsize until your light bulb or heatmat so that you don't need the thermostat. .
 
what kind is it. i wire everything up myself, i have had some training in electrics, but it's not rocket science. (sorry hallie) usually you can google the scematic diagram.

ha, ha. I could never take offence from you Rem;)

Just protececting my industry and our reps ofcourse.

And ive heard a few horror stories of people getting the wiring wrong.

He contacted me and im goin to try ro help him out...:D
 
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