what i do wrong?

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johneven

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G'day folks
i have a problem,why my beardie would not eat by itself in the last pass 90 days ihave hand feed him , well i use infered heat lam at 32c hot end and use uvb light 10.0. please help what i do wrong?
 
you might want to google brumation it will explane alot :)
 
how old is he/she ? basking temps are not hot enough basking site around 40 degree warm end 32ish and colder end must have a few degree graduate,

next questions with your uvb light how is it away from the dragon those lights are usless if its past 12 inch they havent got the penetration needs to be with in 2-6 inch i run mine not to close other wise will cause photokeratoconjunctivitis but much past they are useless also the have a life of 6months, then throw away just because they light does not mean its producing UV,

what size food are feeding? the gap between the eyes are the rule of measurement,

whats the ambient temp of the room, does the enclosure hold the heat well, whats the humdity like


start with the basic of basic things to isolate any problems then go from there most times its usualy temps/ stress that causes feeding problems


if its really underweight start assist feeding pinkies as there high in protein and fat to get some condition into your dragon
but i would seriously consider going to a vet 90days is to long for a dragon especially without brumation

there is a few things to consider not saying your not doing it right, but 90 days is a concern with only just coming into winter IMO
 
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Heat creatrs appetite. Get the temp up, this will help.
Also is he getting a balanced diet with calcium?
What live food and greens do you give him?

Good luck.
 
I have a male and female in seperate containers 1.5 years old. they are inactive, barely eat, hot spot at 34 deg, UV as it should be, little or no excretment . ( ITS CALLED BRUMATION !!!!) Its not unusual they would have entered brumation when you say. You will notice they will loose some condition and the indent of their spine will be noticeable around the base of their tail. The first year I owned these beardies they showed very little sign of entering a brumation period. in the second year ( i.e. now ) their behaviour is markedly different.Do what "IgotFrogs" said !!!!
 
to got into brumation 3 months ago???? highly unlikely, it would only be happeing over the past month to now, obvsiousily pending how cold the night time temps where getting to which we dont know so cant assume brumation automaticaly especially when it started 3 months ago, sounds more then that but given not much information provided makes it hard to diagnose,

has the dragon lost a noticeable amount of weight?? ive kept dozens of dragons and mate had large amount too none of ours or the years we have bein around dragons have they gone into brumation end of march start or april?

Bearded Dragon . org here is a good site for dragons good place to be

my question is why wait now??? 3 months after he will not eat ??? why not at a vet instead of a snake forum??
 
I agree with Stimmie that it would be VERY odd to have seen signs of brumation three months ago.

I my opinion it is quite simply your heating. Your hottest spot should be sitting around the 45* mark, without sufficient heat your Beardie will not feed well.
 
45* at the hot spot.....yeah right ....anyone got any SPF 1000 for this poor lizard ??
 
I agree 45 is a good temp provided there is a cool spot to escape too. what good is the SPF1000 we are not talking about UV radiation
 
I agree 45 is a good temp provided there is a cool spot to escape too. what good is the SPF1000 we are not talking about UV radiation
yup i agree as long as there is a " cool area " then 45c in the basking spot is fine , as for collywollys remark- go and have a look at his past posts ;) .
 
aside from the temps being to low, beardies do alot better in a brightly lit environment, change the red globe to a reflector globe from bunnings, that will also stop so much UVB light entering the retina and doing possible damage. (in regards to the photokeraconjunctivitis that Stimmie mentioned)
 
45* at the hottest spot.....yeah right break out the SPF 1000 !!!

The key point is 'SPOT' you, if your ambient was 45* that may be an issue - a hot 'SPOT' of 45* is exactly what a Beardie thrives in. This Beardies is being kept like a python, hence feeding problems.

Colly - Try providing some constructive advice before merely making a fool of yourself.
 
I think you all may of miss-read it.
He didnt say it wasnt eating, he said he was having to hand feed it.

As posted many times above it could be a huge range of things.

Check your temps and increase if needed.
Your UV light, is it a tube or bulb?
Brand?
If its bulb, get rid of it and get a tube, but not a repti-glo - can cause eye damage.

Eating greens?
What you feeding him?
Dusted with calcium/vitamins?

These were all asked above sorry was just ranting.

Could come down to your beardie being lazy? Lol
my guy, ive hand fed for 6 months, he jst dsnt seem to be interested chasing his roaches unless he only needs to move about a foot or so.. Lol
 
If its bulb, get rid of it and get a tube, but not a repti-glo - can cause eye damage.



Reptiglo tubes are fine, its the compacts that apparently cause eye damage.
 
ALL ultra violet sources can cause photokeratoconjucntivitis if close enough, reason why the coill has a worse name as most coils are on the lead with a ES type which you can alter the height, where the most tube types are fixed on a lid or ontop of the enclosure 9 out of 10 times far to far away from the reptile to even remotelly benefit any of the UV output, the coil type lights are fine there is nothing wrong with them keeping in mind 99% of UV lights are useless and do not provide any UV past 12inches, keep your reptile within 3-6 inches of the bulb they will get excellent exposure from it nearly decade of experience never once had a problem if you want a mean UV setup atm im playing around with hydro lights to see what i can get to produce same amount of UVA/B with NO UVC coming up with some good results but the next problem is its 600wat bulb lmfao that would make it an oven just gotta find one that has low wattage but same properties megaray wicked light setup i wouldnt use the SB lights on there EB, but there demand is extremely high and is too slow

once again if your so concerned why on snake forum not a lizard forum and why have you not replied to the people thats taken there valuable time and experience to help you
 
once again if your so concerned why on snake forum not a lizard forum and why have you not replied to the people thats taken there valuable time and experience to help you
regardless of the name APS is a forum for all reptiles and anything related so he has come to the right place if he knows how to sift through mindless dribble
 
i definatly agree with most of the others.they require a hot "hotspot" of around 45 degrees .just put a high wattage spotlight in one corner of the tank and make sure it is well ventilated . they are daytime,high exposure to the sun lizards,not nocturnal carpet pythons.no heat needed at night though.
cheers
simon
 
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