Enclosure designers / makers

[Waterrat]

Next season, I would like to keep some neonates in natural surroundings, so they are exposed to UV from day one.
I have been toying with the design - a bank of compartments that would accommodate one snake in each section. My biggest dilemma is how to make the opining to each enclosure (section) without going into some extremely elaborate design. It's essential to have at least the top and bottom (preferably the back side as well) covered with mesh. The frame could be make of of aluminium Q-block and the partitions out of perspex or some other waterproof material - the dividers don't have to be transparent. The number of compartments is arbitrary, depending on weight and easy handling (will need more than one piece). The enclosure will be set well of the ground, maybe even hoisted into the canopy.
Any help with design / manufacture will be most appreciated.

This is my (limited) idea that gives some idea of the dimensions:

 

[Renenet]

I thought for a few moments that you could modify cheap cat flaps to serve as a door, but I don't know if there's any such thing as a cheap cat flap.

 

[saximus]

If the back panels are solid could you just put them on hinges so the whole back wall opens like a door?

 

[Waterrat]

It's a thought - thanks. They're not cheap cat flaps but I got the feeling no matter what I use and how I use it, it won't be cheap.
So good to hear from someone.

 

[Erebos]

Michael have you seen the screen mesh outdoor terrariums made by exo terra maybe you could hang up a few of them instead of going to a major effort of building something.


Cheers Brenton

 

[-Katana-]

What I've got pictured in my head from your design isn't too far removed from the perspex enclosures that I've seen breeders display their hatchie stock at various expos.

Adding the Q-block would help with rigidity and stop the perspex from warping and and termi-mesh pop riveted on the top and bottom would help with air flow and cleaning.
Partitions could drop down from the top through slots and notch into a groove at the bottom that would allow for a high degree of flexibility in the event that you wanted to turn it into a bigger enclosure.
Aluminium hinges and fittings to stop the inevitable corrosion.

Umm...that's what I came up with in a few minutes but I'll give it a bit more thought.

 

[Red-Ink]

Possibly individual roof/front mesh sections on hinges or banks of the front/roof. That way you get the all mesh ecnlosure your after.

 

[graffix]

Vertical sliding doors.

C-channel in either side of each cube, maybe one on the bottom. This way you could use thin channel for perspex doors or aluminium screens. The fly screen frame stuff is available in lengths. If each door slide upwards to open it would save a lot of cutting and engineering doors to open adjacently.

 

[Waterrat]

Thanks guys, now I am getting few ideas. Degree in engineering would help though. LOL

 

[Mr.James]

Michael, you could always use flute for your partions. Its light weight, easy to cut, comes in various colours and a reasonably priced.

 

[nico77]

If you make the frame from cube lock make a frame to fit inside the front frame , Cover the door with Perspex or wrap mesh around the front of the door frame to the side and cover the front and side with 25x25mm angle to cover the sharp edges of the mesh , then hinge it to the main frame and add a sliding barrel bolt to lock it up.
I would stay away from core flute as it has a fairly short life if it's exposed to the sun . There is a product called alukabond/diabond it is a 3mm thick sheet of PE (plastic) that is covered on both sides with .5-1mm of aluminum lining it is cheaper than Perspex and comes in lots of colors and is also a lot lighter than Perspex . You could get it from a sign shop .
Cheers Nico

I just noticed the size of the boxes , with the smaller size it might be easyer to fit a piece of angle down both sides and the bottom of each cube so you can slide Perspex or what ever sheet you use down into the angle if that makes sense .

 

[Waterrat]

I agree with nico, core flute wouldn't last long in our environment. diabond is coated on both sides but the cuts I would have make would soak up water. I am now thinking about getting the partitions cut from 3mm polyurethane or perspex and also the entire front panel in one piece with "windows" cut out for each section and hinged back into position .... not sure if it makes sense. Then screw or pop-rivet the front onto the front of the main Q-block frame.
Thanks for the ideas.

 

[BJC-787]

if you make the front or back panel solid you could use a hole saw to cut a hole for each section and then hinge that piece on to be the door.

 

[Waterrat]

if you make the front or back panel solid you could use a hole saw to cut a hole for each section and then hinge that piece on to be the door.

That's exactly what I had in mind, except I would prefer the doors square and larger. If all the dividers are going to be solid (have to be) and firmly fixed to the Q-block frame, then the back, top and bottom can be mesh.

I like your drawings.

 

[browny]

probably more weight than your wanting per unit as it can be heavy but the thicker perspex sheets can be drilled and tapped meaning each section can simply be screwed into place holding it all together and would be fairly rigid if you had the bottom, dividers, back all screwed together as one......just cut a 'window' in the back of each compartment then just add your tops and doors


my two cents so far, love messing with ideas outside the box so hopefully have more food for thought soon

 

[mungus]

i would have a vertical sliding perspex door at the front Michael - Like a croc trap.
just pop rivet / weld some channel to the front of the frame for the perspex to slid up and down in.
That way you would have easy access to the little buggers.
I would have perspex as a solid panel between each harchie as well.
you will find this set-up would work best.
Engineering Done at mate rates:lol:

 

[Waterrat]

Thanks mangus, good idea. I have 7 months to work on it, so it should be perfect when finished.

 

[Treg92]

just reading through, not sure if i am 100% sure of what you want to do, but here are some pictures of some rat cages i built (5 adjacent to each other). a similar concept i feel, made out of 25mm aluminium tube and aviary mesh. i used the "knuckle system to connect it all together. i just made a slightly smaller frame to fit int the door way and put it on hinges. it is simple to build, all aluminium frame and rivets, with galv mesh. very lightweight and weather proof. if you built your thing out of something similar you could lift it yourself no problems. that way it is all open, no need for perspex just use a smaller gauge wire.

 

[Waterrat]

That's pretty close to what I am looking for but I can see a lot of work in cutting all the bits for the doors. In my case, the dividers may have to be made from something solid because the wire mesh will have to be covered with fly screen mesh on both sides. GTP neonates are tiny and would get through or stuck in the wire mesh. The concept is great. Thanks

 

[Treg92]

That's pretty close to what I am looking for but I can see a lot of work in cutting all the bits for the doors. In my case, the dividers may have to be made from something solid because the wire mesh will have to be covered with fly screen mesh on both sides. GTP neonates are tiny and would get through or stuck in the wire mesh. The concept is great. Thanks
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if you own a tape measure, circular saw (yes a circular saw cuts aluminium) and a set square, it isn't too hard, probably took me better part of an hour to cut up 35 meters of this stuff, and anyway, just replace the side panels with perspex (pre drill perspex and use a 20 mm roofing screws to hold it in place, you can cut it yourself with a saw). also if you used a large headed screw you could replace all the mesh with steel fly wire.

if you don't have ANY practical skills, then probably dont do it. or, you could give me a gtp and ill build it