Ultimate question: Noobs and snakes. From bites to cudles. (Seniors please tell all)

[Tit4n]

Hello guys and girls,

I thought with the recent questions doing the circles around the forums it was time to put it down to one thread which would tell it like it is and stop any further mystery.

If the seniors of the snake world could please shine some light upon the following questions it would be greatly appreciated.

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1) What is a great beginner snake? Something that is slow, smallest in size for ease of keeping, and is known to be the least jumpy compared to the rest?

2) Are all snakes unpredictable when it comes to bites? Can a snake which never bit anyone in 3 years one day without getting scared or spooked by anyone suddenly strike and bite?

3) Do all species of snakes (Non venomous) bite the same? (Latch on or just a strike jab) (Which is less painfull)

4) How does one overcome the natural human instinct to jump when getting bitten to avoid causing any harm to the snake via natural reflex?
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I think this covers it all pretty well ? Anyone else with similar question feel free to post in this thread for pros to answer.

Thanks in advance

ANyone?

 

[saximus]

I was waiting for the pros to comment but since nobody has I'll give my opinion.
1. Just about any Antaresia. They don't grow too big and they are generally fairly placid. For something a little bigger, a Woma. Once again, generally pretty placid and also have a fair bit of personality and "cuteness". Also Womas are great feeders which definitely removes a stress that noobs don't need.
2. You can only trust a basically wild animal so far. There are plenty of stories of people saying the line "this snake has never bitten me in its life" right before they get tagged. I prefer to just say respect them all and don't do things like hold them up to your face etc.
3. Some snakes (seemingly especially Aspidites) seem to prefer the slow grab and hold on method while others just strike and pull straight back. A strike is more of a shock but I would think holding on would be more painful just because you've got something trying to eat you and some can hold on for a long time. Then of course there's the best of both worlds - the feed bite. A big strike then holding on and constricting.
4. The only people I've seen who don't jump are breeders who get tagged by hatchies all the time. So other than just copping a bunch of bites I don't think there is any easy way to stop yourself jumping.

Hopefully that is the sort of reply you expected.

 

[rvcasa]

Defo a Woma !!
(but watch out, don't step on her tail !

READ:
– "The Champagne of Snakes", by Doc Roc, Southern Reptiles

 

[Pauls_Pythons]

IMO..............
1. Woma. Antaresia, Stimmies or Spotties would be on my no no list due to the escape risk that newbies are not normally prepared for, easy to lose a tiny snake. Womas are good eaters, easy to handle, calm and generally easy to care for.

2. Absolutely. Had it happen myself only recently with my 4 year old Diamond. Never bit or even struck but one evening while Im watching the tv he decided there was something he didn't like be it a smell or a movement and he had a little nibble on my hand.

3. Agree fully with saximus above but will add that the bigger the snake the worse the bite for obvious reasons. Bigger teeth, more power, more intent. My big burm never bit but I was always wary knowing the damage she could do.

4. Being confident that you are doing the right things. If I have an animal that strikes or bites it is normally when you first try to get them out of their enclosure. With these I always go with an open hand, palm to the snake and it might strike but unless its a big animal they can't get any purchase on your hand. I dont often jump unless its an animal I simply dont expect to see that behavior from.

 

[Python-Lover4lyf]

1. Centralian carpet python (bredli). Smaller snakes are easier to lose as mentioned above and are generally more bitey due to their size. They are simply intimidated. Bredlis are a medium sized snake that if you get small and raise with a lot of handling will be an absolute gem when older (and larger) and they have a great feeding response which takes stress of noobs. They are also known for being one of the most placid snakes.

2. Snakes generally only bite due to a jerky movement, sensing someone's fear or them feeling uneasy, a certain smell or the technique you use to hold them. So easiest way to avoid a bite is to stay calm and confident, use wave like movements when handling and wash your hands before handling with a mild smelling soap/sanitiser. In no way will this guarantee you to never be bitten however it massively reduces the chance and reasons for a snake biting.

3. Depending on their mood i guess lol

4. Confidence and experience oh and a slow reaction

I am by no means an expert in fact i'm probably still in the beginner catagory and this is just my oppinion on the questions above.

 

[Snake-Supplies]

taipan

 

[Icarus]

this thread deserves a sticky!

 

[Bluetongue1]

In response to Qs 1, my opinion is a yearling that is a proven good feeder and demonstrably docile when being removed from its enclosure. Other than excluding those species than require a fair level of experience to successfully keep, like GTPs, the species should be that which the purchaser really likes, not something they feel they have been told they should get. Size does not really matter so long as you can afford any required changes in housing.

I would, however, like to make the following points because far too many of those new to the hobby think it is all about the snake. It’s NOT! That is but one part of the equation for success as a keeper.

It is about spending the extra dollars and buying from a reputable breeder. You will actually get what you pay for and be given the support you need.

It is about accessing good information on ALL aspects of keeping, from housing to heating to handling, BEFORE you decide to buy. It is critical to know what the needs of your snake are so you can meet them.

It is about putting into place the information gained so all is in readiness when you make your purchase. Temporary housing is a recipe for disaster. Heating needs to be run for a few days under normal conditions to make the required adjustments and get the temps right.

It is about having realistic expectations of what you can and what you should not do with your snake. It is not a toy to be played with only when you get the urge or a trophy to be dragged out and shown off every time someone new drops by. The snake’s needs should come first.

It is about having the right attitude towards being responsible for a living thing. It deserves clean digs and fresh water and regular feeding etc. You take on the responsibility to provide all those on an on-going basis when you take on a living pet. It is entirely dependent upon you and you have to be prepared to accept that responsibility willingly and not slack off at any stage.

Blue

 

[mysnakesau]

1) What is a great beginner snake? Something that is slow, smallest in size for ease of keeping, and is known to be the least jumpy compared to the rest? - IMO, the best beginner snake is the one that you want. Everyone has their own opinion of which type is best but don't be talked out of the one you really want just because the next person says they are no good. But when looking for your first snake be sure you talk to a reputable breeder, and even purchase from a reputable breeder. Good breeders won't sell snakes that aren't eating well, or thriving. Good breeders don't beat around the bush to tell you want you need or don't need. So make sure you pick a snake that eats well, sheds well and showing nothing but good health.

2) Are all snakes unpredictable when it comes to bites? Can a snake which never bit anyone in 3 years one day without getting scared or spooked by anyone suddenly strike and bite?
YES & YES. You will learn to know your snake but there are always going to be times he may bite. Snakes bite for two reasons - FEED BITE: When they are hungry they may latch onto you and not let go. If you have handled rodents just prior to visiting your snake, he may smell it and suddenly strike and hang on. They do let go, sometimes on their own, or with some persuasion - hold them under cold water, vinegar on their mouth but always handle with care when your snake is in Feed Response. Then you have a DEFENCE BITE where they will strike at let go straight away. Startling them, suddenly touching them unawares, moving around them too fast, wriggling your fingers in front of them are just some things that can provoke a defensive bite. Move slow, make sure he knows you are there before you reach in to grab him, and don't hold them - by this I mean gripping them. Snakes prefer to sit in your hands and be allowed to move freely rather than being held with force to prevent them going anywhere.

3) Do all species of snakes (Non venomous) bite the same? (Latch on or just a strike jab) (Which is less painfull)
Generally speaking yes. Some individuals are more "loopy" than others but they either strike and release, or they will hold on. "Loopy" doesn't mean all snakes of his type are going to be the same. I have two jungles for example - one I can handle reasonably well and not get bitten but the other? Not a chance. She sees you blink and she strikes. But this is not enough for me to categorise jungles as no good just because she bites more than any of my others.

4) How does one overcome the natural human instinct to jump when getting bitten to avoid causing any harm to the snake via natural reflex?
You'll get use to it. You will always jump but unless you have really bad reflexes, throwing the snake isn't something I've heard of anyone doing just because it struck at them. Rats yeah, I have flung a few of them across the room but never my snakes. Watch your snake's movement and you will learn to tell whether he is defensive, startled or relaxed. If he is jumpy when you touch him, tenses his neck back into an 'S' shape, there's a good chance he will strike. But if he is just cruising, exploring, neck stretched out as he reaches for a higher point, chances are he is pretty relaxed.

Cold snakes are less active than warm ones. So that might make a difference to how they react, too.

Bluetongue does a good job with his replies. I didn't read all his before I started mine so if I have repeated what he said, consider it as backing up his thoughts.

 

[Ricochet]

Mysnakesau and BT1 - spot on to the questions asked.

How about newbies read the threads that are already stickies - such as "tips for newbies". There are many other factors / questions than are covered by these questions. Then they can digest this info and ask a specific question that they need clarification on.

 

[MR_IAN_DAVO]

Have you people looked in the wiki section on this forum?
If there is info you wish to add, it can be done easily there.
I wonder how many people look at it & piont newbies to that section, or is it a waste of space.

Cheers
Ian

 

[Crystal..Discus]

Part of owning a snake is that you will get bitten. You can find a breeder or a seller that has the snake that you want, that has "never bitten," but chances are one day they'll be grumpy and you'll touch them in the wrong place or move too quickly. It is what it is, and when you learn to accept it, you learn to love that about them.

 

[Goth-Girl]

In response to Qs 1, my opinion is a yearling that is a proven good feeder and demonstrably docile when being removed from its enclosure. Other than excluding those species than require a fair level of experience to successfully keep, like GTPs, the species should be that which the purchaser really likes, not something they feel they have been told they should get. Size does not really matter so long as you can afford any required changes in housing.

I would, however, like to make the following points because far too many of those new to the hobby think it is all about the snake. It’s NOT! That is but one part of the equation for success as a keeper.

It is about spending the extra dollars and buying from a reputable breeder. You will actually get what you pay for and be given the support you need.

It is about accessing good information on ALL aspects of keeping, from housing to heating to handling, BEFORE you decide to buy. It is critical to know what the needs of your snake are so you can meet them.

It is about putting into place the information gained so all is in readiness when you make your purchase. Temporary housing is a recipe for disaster. Heating needs to be run for a few days under normal conditions to make the required adjustments and get the temps right.

It is about having realistic expectations of what you can and what you should not do with your snake. It is not a toy to be played with only when you get the urge or a trophy to be dragged out and shown off every time someone new drops by. The snake’s needs should come first.

It is about having the right attitude towards being responsible for a living thing. It deserves clean digs and fresh water and regular feeding etc. You take on the responsibility to provide all those on an on-going basis when you take on a living pet. It is entirely dependent upon you and you have to be prepared to accept that responsibility willingly and not slack off at any stage.

Blue

You are right on the money Blue..My thought to a "T"..Couldn't have said it any better..
..Cheers Cloe..

 

[Bluetongue1]

Thanks Cloe. It is something I strongly believe in. If you don't do you homework first than you are going to have problems and pity help the poor reptile. The perfect reptile is the one you want and know how to look after and do it. It really is as simple as that.

And if you have a thing about being bitten, then just make sure you buy a demonstrably placid animal when removing it from its enclosure. Otherwise just use a cloth or a hook when removing it.

Blue

 

[Skeptic]

My big coastal bit me twice on each hand for the first time in 7 years about a month ago. Didn't see that one coming I think my wife had been talking to her

 

[Red-Ink]

typos ans spelling

Q1. No such thing as a "beginer" snake regardless of size... keepers knowledge is what makes the difference. From A. perthensis to M. kinghorni.... You're armed with the correct knowledge to keep them then you can begin with them.

Q2. YES

Q3. YES... the reason behind the bite is the difference in it's effect.

Q4. You don't... if your "jumpy" then your "jumpy". Expect to get bitten each time you handle then maybe you'd "jump" less or at least handle them with more care. Don't handle a hungry snake... Don't handle a snake when you smell like their prey items... Learn to read your own snakes behaviours and don't "push" the issue... Stay away from the pointy end.

 

[Bluetongue1]

Must agree whole heartedly with Red-Ink, especially point 4. There are some very definite DOs and DON'Ts when it comes to handling snakes in order to minimise the likelihood of being bitten. If any part of you has the smell of prey on it then don't be surprised if you cop a bite there. That includes petting the family dog or having the cat rub up against you or the weero perched on your fingers and you don't wash your hands etc.

You don't get your snake out when it is coiled and ready to strike at anything, if its normal behaviour is lazily looped over a branch. There are also certain times it should be left alone as well - once the eyes goes cloudy coming up to a shed, for a couple of days after it has eaten and for a week or so while it is settling into new accomodation. Ignore these and don't be surprised if you get bitten.

With respect to unexplained unexpected bites, you need to bear in mind that the combination of airborne scents detected by the tongue (and Jacobsen's organ) and heat detected by labial pits are how pythons detect their prey. So if the wind happen to be carrying a desireable scent over your warm hand, the snake makes the obvious assumption and is likely to have a go at this potential prey. If it turns out to be not so edible it will quikly let go and withdraw.

Blue