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I believe there would be a difference between, feeding them as much as possible with normal photo-periods to feeding with 24/7 heat and no down time.
There's no healthy way getting an animal to breed at a rate of double to triple clutch 2-3 times a year, which is what I'm referring too.
 
I believe there would be a difference between, feeding them as much as possible with normal photo-periods to feeding with 24/7 heat and no down time.
There's no healthy way getting an animal to breed at a rate of double to triple clutch 2-3 times a year, which is what I'm referring too.
i agree with your first point as i dont even think monitors should receive heat 24/7 unless it gets cold enough to require ambient heating as to not kill the animal.
however i think many species would be able to produce two or three clutches without any detrimental effects. especially the smaller animals
 
The method is to use 24/7 light and heat constantly. Ideally with deep substrate and cover (a retes stack) the monitor can go underground and escape the light,and find a suitable microclimate and sleep / eat / thermoregulate when it wants. Maybe this method lets monitors reach their full potential.

Underground and lacies though??? Nice lacie IV.
 
Sinners121

Yes 2-3 clutches easily yes, but every year? Sometimes more than once a year?
i dont think they should be producing more than 3 clutches a year or at least 3 a breeding season. on the every year i do not know. i would love to see some stats and averages of wild caught monitors producing clutches, amounts and times ect
 
My sleeping beauty:). This is the first season she's chosen to brumate out in the open?!

Apologies for the pic quality, I didn't want to disturb her by sliding the glass back.
 

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There's no healthy way getting an animal to breed at a rate of double to triple clutch 2-3 times a year, which is what I'm referring too.
Is this speaking from experience?

edit: I just re-read your post. Do you mean double clutch 3 times a year (ie six clutches) or simply double or triple clutch (2-3 clutches per year)?
 
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How long can a healthy monitor go without food and water while brumating?
 
How long can a healthy monitor go without food and water while brumating?

I usually stop feeding in early May and commence again in early September. This is her in early September last year after approx 120 days brumation. From my experience they loose little condition. I do occasionally turn the lights on briefly to allow them access to drinking water. Some will take the opportunity, while others wont.
 

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I usually stop feeding in early May and commence again in early September. This is her in early September last year after approx 120 days brumation. From my experience they loose little condition. I do occasionally turn the lights on briefly to allow them access to drinking water. Some will take the opportunity, while others wont.

So do you mean you don't even give them a basking spot most of the time? I have left my timer going exactly the same for my ackies in case they want to bask but they haven't used it for ages. I didn't realise you could/should cut it down. I wish you'd been there when I made a thread about this IV. I got quite vague answers and have been worrying about them all winter.
My ackies haven't eaten for about two months and I would guess they won't for a couple more. They seem to go closer to what I would call hibernation rather than brumation from my tiny amount of experience
 
Thanks IV. my mertens been in his tunnel for a month now, i was starting to worry abit.
 
So do you mean you don't even give them a basking spot most of the time?

I turn the basking lights on once, very occasionally twice, per week for a few hours and my ambient room temps hover around 10c overnight, 15c during the day. I am planning to move all my lacies outside permanently soon, so it will be interesting to see how much time they spend basking over the cooler months. When I lived in Western Victoria ( northern grampians) I was never able to find wild Lacies out and about over Winter, though they were very commonly encountered during Spring/Summer.
If I were keeping tropical species, however, I too would be supplying a permanent warm basking spot option.
 
I usually stop feeding in early May and commence again in early September. This is her in early September last year after approx 120 days brumation. From my experience they loose little condition. I do occasionally turn the lights on briefly to allow them access to drinking water. Some will take the opportunity, while others wont.
so cute :) i love these lil guys

unfortunetly my camera got stolen so i dont have any pics but i have a breeding pair of black headed monitors -a bright male with spots and a stripped female and i am curently builing a new enclosure for them but in the future i plan to build them on of these :)PaceSnakeBurm750.jpgTropicalpooltable600.jpg
 
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I was wondering exactly the same thing - my sandies have really slowed down; they haven't been actively basking for about 7 weeks and haven't been interested in food.
 
I was wondering exactly the same thing - my sandies have really slowed down; they haven't been actively basking for about 7 weeks and haven't been interested in food.

I think as long as they have good condition before entering brumation they cope well. Having said that, I do recall a post from crocdoc of a Lacie that looked terribly emaciated (the "lookout" goanna) and yet appeared fine the following season.
 
I stop feeding my lacies in late April/early May, and start them feeding again usually in late October, when the weather can be trusted to be warm enough for digestion. They never lose any noticeable weight.

Some winters I will never see them emerge. Other winters they will come out and bask at every opportunity.
 
people never believe me when i tell them my first reptile ever was my lace monitor
a risky call yes, but i learned the do's and dont's quickly and she is healthy and fighting like big goanna's should be
how are everyones laceys doing ?
 

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