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WomaBoy

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hey all, i went to pick up my childrens python that is around 7 months old after feeding him because i feed him in a separate container and he struck at me and gave me a little nip, i pulled my hand away quickly so he didn't grab hold of me. then he striked at the container again. he has never show any signs of aggression before. i really worried that he will keep biting me! will he ?????

thanks sam :(
 
Just keep handling him mate his prob just grumpy unless somethink has changed eg. Temps smells so on
 
So some snakes will get into what they call "feeding mode" where they will lash out thinking they are still strivking at food. I have two snakes who are like that. I just get a spray bottle with some water in it and give them a quick spray on their head... It just give them a 'snap out of it' spray. This generally help with the snappyness straight after feeding.... Give this a go and see if it makes a change...
 
I dont understand why people feed in a seperate container to the enclosure they keep the animal in. Can someone please enlighten me??
Surely having to move these animals back to their enclosure with a full belly is a recipe for disaster. Maybe because I started out with big pythons I miss the point but if anyone here has seen an animal regurgitate its food it really isn't too pleasent.
 
I dont understand why people feed in a seperate container to the enclosure they keep the animal in. Can someone please enlighten me??
Surely having to move these animals back to their enclosure with a full belly is a recipe for disaster. Maybe because I started out with big pythons I miss the point but if anyone here has seen an animal regurgitate its food it really isn't too pleasent.

Because the poor misled fools think it will prevent their snakes biteing them!
 
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Just keep handling him mate his prob just grumpy unless somethink has changed eg. Temps smells so on

After the animal has just eaten, your advice is to keep handling him, seriously ?
 
Striking after a feed, particularly when still in it's feeding tub is not aggressive behaviour. I used to tub feed thinking it would minimise the treat of coping a tag but it actually makes it worse IMO.
 
You need to keep handling your CHILDRENS python but only under strict guidelines. Firstly, never handle your CHILDRENS python alone. Make sure you always have a qualified first aid officer ready who has access to a phone. If your CHILDRENS python does bite you, apply pressure to the wound and call for immediate assistance. Keep the wound elevated and above all, try to remain conscious.
 
Just keep handling him mate his prob just grumpy unless somethink has changed eg. Temps smells so on

Stupid advice , it's just eaten and you tell him to keep handling ???


BenjiBoy ,
It has bitten you because you are mucking around with a feeding cage and moving it when its feeding , take the feeding cage and toss it in the bin and feed the snake in its cage ...
 
Stupid advice , it's just eaten and you tell him to keep handling ???


BenjiBoy ,
It has bitten you because you are mucking around with a feeding cage and moving it when its feeding , take the feeding cage and toss it in the bin and feed the snake in its cage ...

But what about the training regime Dicky...? :)! The next obvious step is LAWN POO TRAINING, then imitating the fabled HOOP SNAKE, getting it to grab its tail in its mouth, form ahoop and roll around the back lawn... after pooing of course... :)

Jamie

J
 
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Doesn't matter whether you feed in a separate tub or or not you are still going to cop a bite if you aren't paying attention .Benjiboy your snuggle stick is going to always have days where it will have a bad hair day and want to bite you .It will settle down back to normal so don't worry .Did you wash your hands to get rid of the scent of its food before trying to handle it again .
 
I dont understand why people feed in a seperate container to the enclosure they keep the animal in. Can someone please enlighten me??
.
i do it because i keep my womas on a loose sub straight and i want to avoid compaction best i can , both my snakes that i do this with are fine being moved after a feed , i just make sure that i have given them plenty of time to get it down before i shift them and make sure its a swift but gentle move as i don't want to muck around to much

so no where not all misguided fools like stimigex suggests
 
You need to keep handling your CHILDRENS python but only under strict guidelines. Firstly, never handle your CHILDRENS python alone. Make sure you always have a qualified first aid officer ready who has access to a phone. If your CHILDRENS python does bite you, apply pressure to the wound and call for immediate assistance. Keep the wound elevated and above all, try to remain conscious.
also try to grow a pair
 
Um...you had just fed him....he probably just thought you were giving him a 2nd course!!

Next time pick him back up out of his feeding container with a hook and you should be fine ;)
 
But what about the training regime Dicky...? :)! The next obvious step is LAWN POO TRAINING, then imitating the fabled HOOP SNAKE, getting it to grab its tail in its mouth, form ahoop and roll around the back lawn... after pooing of course... :)

Jamie

J

Hah Jamie you're just jealous cause my BHP's are lawn poop trained... lmao...
 
i do it because i keep my womas on a loose sub straight and i want to avoid compaction best i can , both my snakes that i do this with are fine being moved after a feed , i just make sure that i have given them plenty of time to get it down before i shift them and make sure its a swift but gentle move as i don't want to muck around to much

so no where not all misguided fools like stimigex suggests

So the substrate is the problem. Maybe an area in the enclosure where you have a different substrate that can not be swallowed would be suitable?
Im not trying to be an @rse, but I have kept some pretty big snakes and can't imagine how or why I would want to feed them in a different place. In my honest opinion all this does is create you more potential problems in the long run.
 
only "substrate" i use for my snakes are newspapers for the adults/semi adults and toilet paper for hatchlings, it doesnt look good but its cheap and easy to clean, being bitten is something everyone who keeps snakes is going to experience, its just a matter of when it will happend, snakes can be just as different as we are, some has good and bad days and others has permanent bad days, best thing is to keep in mind they have teeth, respect them and learn to read them, of my current collection its only my male woma that im 100% sure that he will bite, not because he has a bad day but simply because he sees anything as a potential meal until he has tasted it, the rest i can take out without any problems, but they will still eat given the chance ;)
 
So the substrate is the problem. Maybe an area in the enclosure where you have a different substrate that can not be swallowed would be suitable?
Im not trying to be an @rse, but I have kept some pretty big snakes and can't imagine how or why I would want to feed them in a different place. In my honest opinion all this does is create you more potential problems in the long run.
dont worry mate , i dont think your trying to be an @rse at all :), i will probably make an area in the new tanks out of tiles for feeding + i can use them as a basking area but until then ill use tubs

like i said both these snakes are fine being moved after a feed and have never really showed any signs of stress since ive had them , they haven't tryed to strike at me and they barely flinch (sometimes just lay chilled out) when i pick them up from their hides

i wouldnt do it with a snake that was obviously timid because there would be a much higher risk of regurge , which is why i feed my coastal in his enclosure , also because he feeds from one of his perches , nowhere near the ground
 
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