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Lockie_1

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Very nice, but even in a temporary setup, I wouldn't be using pebbles as substrate. They need something that holds moisture and they can dig in.

- - - Updated - - -

Another thing, the heat light needs to be some sort of down light (it looks like your just using a coloured party light) and needs to creat a basking temp of 50c+.
 
Temporary set up

Can you please show us the rest of the enclosure?

From my view, it looks like a cheap melamine enclosure with no hides, a cheap thermostat, with party globes as heating and a dinner plate.

But I'm sure it's just a dodgy photo.
 
Can you please show us the rest of the enclosure?

From my view, it looks like a cheap melamine enclosure with no hides, a cheap thermostat, with party globes as heating and a dinner plate.

But I'm sure it's just a dodgy photo.

That was the first photo I took I put him in the around 9pm so I kinda couldn't go and have eveything perfect. I know about the substrate however this setup shouldn't be any longer than a couple weeks I've got digital thermostats that control lighting, day and night temperature all in the one. The size of the new enclosure is a lot larger I'm in the middle of constructing a display cabinet for all of my animals in the one unit they'll all have the same set ups. I'm not a millionaire and Rome wasn't built in a day I'm trying to get it all done as fast as I can without taking any shortcuts. I appreciate your concern

Cheers
 
And as for the bowl I'd rather have that in there for 24 hours than for it not to have water at all. It was replaced earlier today :)
 
For future reference, I'd recommend doing a heap of research first & having the enclosure set up correctly BEFORE bringing the animal home. This will avoid potential issues & future questions like "help, my animal isn't eating" etc. Nice monitor too :)
 
Down light from bunnings - around $5

A expandable block of coco-peat from bunnings - around $2

You don't have to be a millionaire to supply the basics. I would highly recomend changing the pebbles to coco-peat or something along thoughs lines.
A lot can go wrong in a couple of weeks, stress would be the main problem in a setup like that.

Hides, hot basking spot (not air temp) and a moisture holding substrate for digging are "must haves" in a lacies setup, even just a temporary one. They stress very easy and can be very unforgiving.
 
Down light from bunnings - around $5

A expandable block of coco-peat from bunnings - around $2

You don't have to be a millionaire to supply the basics. I would highly recomend changing the pebbles to coco-peat or something along thoughs lines.
A lot can go wrong in a couple of weeks, stress would be the main problem in a setup like that.

Hides, hot basking spot (not air temp) and a moisture holding substrate for digging are "must haves" in a lacies setup, even just a temporary one. They stress very easy and can be very unforgiving.

Thanks mate the advice will be taken on board I'll do it after work tomorrow :) what is coco peat? I was planning on using ceramic heat emitters for the heat source 3x100watt in one end but they will be controlled via the thermostat. So I was thinking should I have a fourth one that is controlled on the same circuit as the uv light so as there is always a constant hot spot during the day?
 
3x100 watt heat light............... Thats 300 watts of heat's im not sure tho but thats a lot of heat i think you only need 1 that has a barking spot of 40+
 
3x100 watt heat light............... Thats 300 watts of heat's im not sure tho but thats a lot of heat i think you only need 1 that has a barking spot of 40+
While youre trying to help, just be careful before giving advice, they need a 50+ basking spot not 40

- ybn
 
everyone is stressing out just a little bit, were from melbourne and know a few people who keep there lacies outdoors with only a hot box? there healthy and have been out doors for about 5 years now.
 
I wouldnt worry about heat emitters and thermostats if i was you. I use flood lights from bunnings and get yourself a non contact temp thermometer ( dick smith $50 ) .
You need to provide a temperature gradient by creating a hot spot at one end of the enclosure and bear in mind the hotspot needs be big enough to cover the goanna from nose to the base of its tail , like RSP crazy said , 50 deg +.
Your goanna is going to want to hide. If you dont have hollow logs you can place in contrasting areas of your enclosure use retes stacks, maybe one each end to provide choices for your goanna. Sand substrate with euc. mulch on top as deep as you can and feed the bugger whole prey as often as you can. Enjoy your goanna, hope this helps. Check out the search function especially crocdoc, imported varanus and rsp crazys posts for some great info
 
Thanks mate the advice will be taken on board I'll do it after work tomorrow :) what is coco peat? I was planning on using ceramic heat emitters for the heat source 3x100watt in one end but they will be controlled via the thermostat. So I was thinking should I have a fourth one that is controlled on the same circuit as the uv light so as there is always a constant hot spot during the day?

Coco-peat is coconut fiber and peat most mixed together and compacted into a brick sized block, put it in a 7L+ tub (because it expanse to 7L) and add hot water, once it expanse, let it cool and add it to the enclosure.

Halogen or flood lights are a better choice for lacies, heat emitters put off a much softer heat then glass bulbs, plus lacies tend to see the light and move to it.

3x100W is too much. Keeping in mind you want the basking spot to cover the size of the monitors body (not including the tail). You will either need one big 100-150 watt light, or 2-3 smaller 50-80 watt lights close together in a row. The wattage will depend on the type of light, how close they are to each other and the distance from the floor. Wire them all together into one thermostat (making sure not to overload the thermostat). As said, you want the basking spot to be 50c+

Night heat is not very important, if you did want night heat, a ceramic heat emitter is a good for that, but it's not necessary unless where you live gets freezing.
 
Nice looking Bells but use bark or clean leaf clippings they love to hide and keeps them a little warmer
 
Coco-peat is coconut fiber and peat most mixed together and compacted into a brick sized block, put it in a 7L+ tub (because it expanse to 7L) and add hot water, once it expanse, let it cool and add it to the enclosure.

Halogen or flood lights are a better choice for lacies, heat emitters put off a much softer heat then glass bulbs, plus lacies tend to see the light and move to it.

3x100W is too much. Keeping in mind you want the basking spot to cover the size of the monitors body (not including the tail). You will either need one big 100-150 watt light, or 2-3 smaller 50-80 watt lights close together in a row. The wattage will depend on the type of light, how close they are to each other and the distance from the floor. Wire them all together into one thermostat (making sure not to overload the thermostat). As said, you want the basking spot to be 50c+

Night heat is not very important, if you did want night heat, a ceramic heat emitter is a good for that, but it's not necessary unless where you live gets freezing.

Coco peat, I think I actually bought some for my slaty grey but I bought it as critter crumble? It says that it's coconut husk lol. Yeah I'll work the set up out everyone may think that 300watts is a bit however im from Ballarat in Victoria it's got a good reputation for being nice and cold.
 
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