Pharskies builds

[pharskie]

Ok so I decided to make a thread with all my past, current and future DIY projects so hopefully some of my acquired knowledge can be of some use to others looking to construct rather than buy enclosures and other reptile related stuff.

this is one I may of may or may not have posted before. It's for my juvie coastal girl. 1200x450x450. In built heat panel using heat cord wound back and forward using brass hooks and tile over the top.finnished by staining, sealing and putting in the glass sliding doors.

this is a corner cabinet that I picked up for 100 bucks as apose to paying double that in raw materials.

this is after day one. Removed lower shelf and used it as a box section for the roof. Cut out holes and added 70mm 10watt led down light also mounted the thermostat and timer display in the middle of the box sectioned roof. I plan to fit out the top as a smaller enclosure eventually. I will update as the long weekend goes on and so too does my progress

 

[shabbyy]

Good job! They look very nice, keep us updated with your work!

 

[pharskie]

after a sanding down and a coat of stain.

this is the heat panel I will be running. All excess heat from the panel will be pumped back into ambient temp heating

heat mat and branch mounted. Found that branch out at the local dog park pushed up into the long grass.

 

[pharskie]

I am going to cut a hole into the floor so I can use the sliding draw underneath the main enclosure as a hide box, just need to get some 30mm timber so I can make the roof of the draw flush with the box I'm going to put in the draw. Any ideas as to how I can latch it?

 

[pharskie]

got the hide all installed and pondtite is drying, put a hidden latch under the draw in the cupboard bellow that works well, might put a second latch in just to be safe. Even though I can't see any way she could break the current latch I want to be certain. Just a thought, if I put another heat cord panel in the other side of the draw with the cord getting tighter toward the far side so as to provide maximum heat gradient via the floor would this be a good option for allowing her to naturally incubate a clutch of eggs? Just an idea, please don't grill me about the pros and cons of natural incubation in comparison to artifical incubation.

the end product, just got to screw and liquid nails in the tracks and install glass for some simulated test runs.

 

[shabbyy]

Man, does it look good...So jelly

 

[disintegratus]

Wow, very nice!
Would you be able to do a "dummy's guide" or something similar for that heat panel? I'm using those slate click together tiles and I just don't like the way they look, but that heat mat/shelf thingy you've rigged up looks fantastic!

 

[pharskie]

Sure thing mate, I have to make another heat panel tomorrow night so I will do a step by step instructional. I am so keen to start the top section but the missus is feeling a bit neglected after locking myself in the snake room all weekend like a mad scientist to work on the enclosure so far.

 

[disintegratus]

Invite her in to help, that should fix it And thank you, I look forward to it.

 

[WaspGirl]

Love your heat panel...well done. going to make one of these on my next enclosure protect. great pics and info

 

[boxhead1990]

i tryed one upside down and didnt get the results i was hoping for you should give it a go and see how you go with a top mounted pannel

 

[pharskie]

Ok so I kinda built the panel and forgot to take pics so I will explain it in detail. You need a piece of solid(not thumb or finger joint timber) that is 18mm. The smallest I could find was 300mm wide x 600mm long. Also, a 1000mm long length of 18mm x 18mm square timber for the edges,(I only edge out 3 sides as one is side is fitted to the back wall of the enclosure). 2 packs of small brass hooks, pva glue, pondtite and stainer. Cut out a piece that is 300mmx300mm from your big bit of timber,This is your base. Now you need two lengths from the square edging to be 300mm long and one at 264mm. This will give you the edges. Now you need to pre drill these edges in two spots toward the ends so as not to split the wood when screwing together. Now, on the base you need to mark out where the edges will sit so take a pencil and mark the outline of the edges by sitting them on there. Draw a line from one corner to the other to form a diagonal x on the top. Measure and mark every 20mm starting from the edge marking. You should only need 16 hooks per line making a total of 32 hooks needed. Now pre drill these marks so you can screw in the hooks later. Now everything is drilled and ready, glue and screw the edges down to the base. Now after the glue is dry you can stain, dry, seal, dry and finally seal again for good measure. After its dried for a couple days to get rid of all smells you can screw in the hooks again, now for the ventilation of excess heat, put a screw in to each corner of the edging on the face that the tile will sit on and leave it about 4mm to 5mm from being flush in the wood. This will give a nice gap between the tile and the panel body for ventilation. If you plan on fixing the panel as a shelf you can drill holes ever 20mm plus a couple extra like in my photo to vent the excess heat directly under the panel. This seems to work quite well in taller enclosures. I think I have explained it pretty clear but if anyone needs and more help just let me know and I can take pics of the ones I am running now as I have both self mounted ones and ones on the ground level both in operation and both working perfectly

 

[saximus]

Awesome thread mate thanks very much. Just hoping you could clarify a couple of things on the heat panel. What size heat cord does that design allow for and how do you fix the tile to the top of it? Also what sort of temps can it get to without a thermo?

 

[pharskie]

The heat cord I use is a 25 watt that will keep 40 to 43 without a thermostat. I found the shelf style works great a you can add more under side ventilation to reduce stable temps to 34 to 35. If its getting too hot add a couple more 4mm holes till you get a good temp. I found that 4x 4mm holes under the panel takes the temp down half to one degree lower. You can always space the hooks to 27mm apart and use a 15 watt cord to get a nice stable 32 degrees but I prefer to get more heat vented by using a 25 watt cord to help with ambient temp assistance. The tile sits pretty firm with the screws by itself so have not had to fix the tile down but if you do use the shelf style mount and don't need an air gap due to the ventilation on the under side you can use 10mm double sided tape to form an air tight seal.
Honestly mate I use the digital display dual purpose timer/thermostats and the work so well I'm actually thinking about changing out my microclimate b1me to one of these awesome inventions.

 

[Troyster]

How did you manage to remove the shelf in the main area?

 

[damian83]

unreal mate good effort,love when you can recycle to make something nice...... wanna build me one?

- - - Updated - - -

and if you know a bloke in demolition, that destroy houses and stuff they often get to keep the things inside, ask someone like that for some cheap cabinets.....
my brother in laws father in law is an abspestos / demo bloke has bout a dozen under his house..... if anyone nearby wants one let me know

 

[pharskie]

Troyster. That was a pain to remove ey, just had to go around the edges with a chisel to break the glue then just used a rubber mallet to persuade it out.

 

[pharskie]

If people want me to make one for you I will try put a post in the for sale section so it's all above board for the forum.

 

[Troyster]

Yeah that's what I thought thanks mate

 

[Skitzmixer]

Honestly mate I use the digital display dual purpose timer/thermostats and the work so well I'm actually thinking about changing out my microclimate b1me to one of these awesome inventions.

Dont suppose you could PM me the link to the digital display dual purpose timer/thermostats that you use
Looking forward to making my own enclosure etc using these tips Like your work.