When to hold after shedding?

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My coastal carpet python was the same, except I got him when he was about 1m 20cm so I was a bit more worried about getting bitten... Whenever you actually touched him he would get very panicked and try to strike, and he still shows this behaviour sometimes even when out of his enclosure because he feels threatened by being grabbed. The only way I was ever able to get him out was with a hook. Also, it is much easier to get him out when he is in his hide because he is already relaxed and you can just scoop him right up. If he is out of his enclosure he is usually more alert and more willing to strike. Your little guy may also not feel safe in such a big enclosure - but try the hides hopefully this all helps!
 
12 of feb ???? Have you tried feeding more offen
what was he getting feed in the pet store? I feed ever week spotted is 16 months murray darling is 3 years
might be a mix of cage defensive and hunger too
maybe that the source of aggression ?
 
Cheap hide - small carboard box with a lid. That way when hes in there he feels safe & you can take him out of the enclosure while he is in it & open it up - bingo he's aleady out & in your hand so you dont need to reach into his enclosure to grab him & freak him. Double that up with the pillow case idea & you will probably find he wont even think about striking.
Dont know if others do this but worked for me when my spotted was aggressive!
Oh & a cheap hook can be made from a coat hanger - bend to size, make sure no sharp bit on the end....
 
Where is the best place to get the scales from to measure your snakes weight and the weight of its food.
Do you need the really sensitive digital ones? or can you just go to bunnings or woolies and pick one up and it will be able to weigh pinkies and baby snakes as well as fully grown snakes

Woolies, coles or any kitchen shop. Just make sure it measures in one gram increments. I spent $10 on mine from Harris Scarfe and have measured a plastic bag that weighed 2g. All should have a tare function which makes it really to weigh your snake or rodent in a tub.
 
$20 scales frm coles/woolies I put a conatiner and pillow case on the scales and zero them then I put the snake in the pillowcase and sit it back in the container and it just gives me the weight of the snake. It has a flat glass pressure plate and a lbs/kgs/tare button. Very useful tool.

The pillow case masks your heat signal and as such is less threatening, once out you can slip the pillow cases off when the snake looks settled and handle it normally. It does also save you from more nasty tags when the snakes are bigger. Have you let her tag you? You will probably find you are more worried about it than how bad the bite actually is.
 
Whilst I tend to handle my mac less when she looks to be ready to shed,she does not appear to have any concerns with being handled at any time. (Never had any reported snappy juv behaviour from her, touchwood! shes one zen python). My Darwin, by contrast, become very reticent leading up to a shed, but the morning after seems to be the time she actually likes to venture out of her enclosure, and welcome handling. Most of the time, though, she seems to be quite hand shy, and I have found that a dark coloured gardening glove seems to worry her less, and once she's out of her enclosure she becomes quite relaxed with handling. She also becomes quite nervy when I clean her space, although she doesn't seem overly territorial. I have been using some of doc rock's ideas to remove her without stressing her, and the combo of the doc method and the dark glove seem very helpful.
 
I generally handle all of my snakes within a day of shedding, mainly so that I can inspect them for any remnants of stuck skin (especially tail tips).
I don't pretend to be an expert but from the info you have given it sounds to me that your snakes main problem may be hunger related. A yearling should be feeding every week or at the least once a fortnight, According to what you have put up it's last feed was the 12th of feb which was 5 weeks ago and if it was a velvet rat that definitely isn't going to keep it satisfied for too long. I would try all of the advice given so far except for the handling, I would add an extra hide or 2, cover the enclosure and only uncover it to change water every couple of days and feed every 5-7 days. I would do that for 4 weeks and then work on regular short handling, start off with just a minute or two per day and then slowly build up to five minutes then 10 and so on.

Hopefully you can get your snake happy and handling well so that you don't feel compelled to sell it otherwise you then have to deal with the legallities of keeping it for a minimum of 6 months amongst other things.
 
Thanks for all the feedback guys! I accidentally made a type, she was only fed 3 weeks ago. Haha, I will get her 2 velvets tonight and see how she goes with them :)

Thanks everyone!
 
Another thing to maybe think about is the size of your hide, how big is it in relation to the snake? As someone already mentioned, in the wild almost everything eats a baby snake so it is very important to make them feel secure by giving them hides they can squeeze into and really feel safe in. If the hide is big with lots of room it might be worth getting something smaller for the time being. Just a thought.
 
Well, the hide I have for her is really small, it was one of the smallest to get. She fits very well in it :)
 
Well, the hide I have for her is really small, it was one of the smallest to get. She fits very well in it :)
I would def be putting her back in a tub for a few months untill she puts some size on.....hook her out gently and always come from under her with your hand before free handling off hook....after a few times she will get used to u
Ta
Pete
 
As long as you have entry if hides an enclosure that size is fine. I've had Diamonds and Darwin's in large enclosures from when they were that size and as long as you have hides you are fine and so will the snake. You think babies in the wild stay in an area the size of a click clack?


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