New morelia enclosure

[Justdragons]

Just started to build a new enclosure for my albino darwin.. she is a good girl and really deserves something nice..

so I really like the solid timber look of the stein type enclosures so im going to build a basic enclosure in that style.. clearly it wont be as nice but we will see..

The dimensions are 2100mm tall 900mm wide and 600mm deep. Solid pine. Will be stained quite dark, maybe a walnut or something like that.
Full glass front with a draw and a laying box (for the future)

Thinking of maybe a small waterfall or something in the bottom somewhere with a drain. Only problem is I would rather do it out of fiberglass or epoxy resin but have no idea where to start. Im going to call in to adelaide molding and casting to see if they can help me out a bit.

For heat im going for a proherp panel in the middle somewhere and some downlights in the top.

Again I know this is going to be similar to a stein enclosure but im not selling them so I dont think tgere is any problem there??

So I took a quick snap or two from sunday. But for some reason my tapatalk is playin games with me. Will have to see if I can do it when I get home.

Cheers for looking. I will be updating this as I go with lots of snaps and I will be asking for some help im sure. On that note how are you at fiberglassing jax??

Cheers Toby



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[Zeusy]

ive worked with fibreglass so many times its not funny. What we used to do is build a frame that surrounds the outside of where you want to fibreglass. Then stretch some material over it and staple it in place. Mix your resin and hardener (only small amounts as it goes off rreally quickly) and soak the material with cheap paint brushes (wear gloves!!!). You can rinse brushes in acetone to reuse them but just cheap ones then throw them away. Allow that to harden. Then work from the back of that and apply resin and then some chopped mat and then resin over that. Pour any excess resin into the tight corners you can't get to. Allow to harden again. Build up a few layer till you get the strength you want. Probably only need 3-4. This way gives you a smooth exterior surface and reduces the need for sanding/cutting etc the fibreglass. You want to avoid that if you can cause the stuff itches like buggery when sanded etc. This is how we built custom subwoofer boxes in the car audio industry.

Get the chopped mat, resin, hardener etc from a boat building mob if you can find one. They're cheaper than anywhere else if you can find one who will sell you the stuff.

 

[J-A-X]

Hi JD - welcome to the DIY darkside

I've never tried fiberglassing, but its on the 'try someday' so I will be tuned into this thread to see what happens

 

[Justdragons]

Thanks so much. Thats just what I was looking for. Ill see who I can get in touch with tomorrow.. how would I get the rock looks?? Can I shape it with something while it goes off? Maybe a screeding trowel and something pointy to make some crevaces (sp).

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[Zeusy]

maybe put one layer of mat on the outside and work it with a brush to get the desired effect. even if you try to flatten it as you do it, you will get a rough finish. try playing with it asd you work the layers on the inside put you want to keep it as flat as possible and evenly spread.
i should add before you start putting the mat on, cut it into heaps of randomly sized and shaped pieces, just put a piece at a time on and just use different pieces to fill in each spot. you can overlap slightly but try and keep it even.
we used car body filler as a final coat on the outside and then smooth that out and sand it for a dead smooth surface to be painted or covered in upholstery. Not sure how it's application in this style would go as it goes off too quick and is hard to work once set but if you can get the desired shape before it goes off then just smooth the rough/sharp bits off with some sandpaper once it's cured, it may come out pretty good.

 

[ronhalling]

Sounds like you have a good plan for your enclosure in mind, just remember the golden rule that comes with putting waterfalls in snake enclosures "If they can redirect the flow they will" alot of people who have made really beautiful enclosures with a waterfall in it have come home or got out of bed and found the water that used to be in the waterfall is now on the floor of the enclosure. As far as your receptical for the water is concerned: if you don't want to mess around with fibreglass and the MESS that comes with using it you might think about getting a 1m x1m sheet of perspex and a couple of diff size rocks, using a hair dryer you can soften the perspex enough to mold it around the rocks, you don't have to use clear perspex you can use any color you can find in your area, doing it this way there is no smell or fumes and no clean up afterwards AND you can mold it to whatever shape your mind allows, then it only takes an angle grinder or jigsaw with a metal cutting blade to finish off to the size you require................Ron

 

[Justdragons]

Cheers ron ill keep that in mind for my waterfall section.

I will be using the same method for waterproofing bathrooms in the bottom then putting fake grass over it with a drain under.. im thinking this will come out very nice..

Cheers for all your help on the fibergkassing.. what brand of stuff do you recommend? ?

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[Zeusy]

I don't even know the brand of the stuff. Lol. I just rung around a few boat builders and found one who could sell some mat off the roll, a 4l bottle of resin which they filled out of their massive drum and a small (50-100ml) bottle of catalyst/hardener. It was about 50% cheaper than buying the kits of buying everything from bunnings or the automotive places like repco/autobarn etc. I also found the quality much better. The chopped mat was thicker.

I should add to be careful mixing the resin and catalyst. Too much catalyst=fire, literally. You'll notice that the appropriate mix does get warm to the touch and i've seen a guy mix up a batch (we used old ice cream containers because once the small amount left in the container, on the edges, went off, you could just squeeze the edges and it would break off and fall out so you could reuse the container) by guesstimating and after 5 mins the plastic started smouldering and smoke started to come out so just follow the correct ratios.

Also, it will be heavy. After 3-4 layers, the thing will weigh quite a bit. Also, it's not cheap so research and ring around and try and work out how much it's going to cost before you start. The pro to fibreglass is nothing will break it. I built a full boot enclosure with around 4 layers and i could stand on it at 3 layers and im 90kg.

 

[Justdragons]

Weight is the only reason I didnt wanna go for render and foam. You think the foam way will weigh less??

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[Zeusy]

Weight is the only reason I didnt wanna go for render and foam. You think the foam way will weigh less??

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I'm not too sure how much a rendered foam would weigh but fibreglass is pretty heavy. Thats why alot of people go for carbon fibre to replace fibreglass panels to reduce weight.

It would be interesting to build matching backgrounds, one out of rendered foam and one out of fibreglass and see the weight difference. I suppose a background with even 2 layers of fibreglass would be strong enough and wouldn't weigh all too much really. We used 3-5 layers and that could hold me up so really a bit overkill for a snake.

 

[Justdragons]

Ok im not sure how these photos will come out cause I really hate this phone but we will see.. I am having a big bulding day tomorrow qnd should get a fair bit done. I wanna try get some down lights in and look at getting the rock wall started.. dunno if im still going fiber glass yet. Someone told me GRC might be better? I dunno. We will see lol.

Cheers for looking.

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[andynic07]

Looks like it is coming together nicely. Please keep us posted on the light weight rock wall and what you choose to use.

 

[Rogue5861]

You could mould your rocks out of paper mache and chicken wire first and then fiberglass over the top. Fiber glassing has a very strong smell, i would suggest doing it outside so you dont stink out the shed/room it is in.

As mentioned it is best to have you ground all run off into the pond or a drain added to the substrate area.

Enclosure looks good so far, going to be a great display piece


Rick

 

[mudgudgeon]

I'd recommend render and foam over fiberglass any day. Fibreglass is horrible stuff to work with, messy, stinky etc.
It will be harder to get a pleasing shape IMO, I've used both for various projects
foam can be carved and shaped before coating, then adjust as you render it.

As for weight, I'm building a huge enclosure 2.1m High x 1.8m Wide x .9m deep.
Lots of fake rockery,so far I've used 1 1/2 bags of render, so 30kg tops plus 5kg of foam. for something that will rarely be moved, it's not that heavy really.

 

[Justdragons]

Got some more done this weekend.
Looking good I think. Cannot wait to start the rock wall.
We are using chrome downlights and ill have a heat cord on the bottom shelf.
We also got the thickest grass that bunnings had. Was pricey but my girls worth it .

Can anyone suggest the best spots for the vents at all? Back wall? Sides? Top and bottom? Just bottom? This is my first vertical gradient enclosure.

Thankyou for looking.

JD

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[Rogue5861]

I would be putting vents at front bottom and top back, need to sit it off the wall a bit though. This will aid in keeping the enclosure ventilated with fresh air at all times, heated air will exit out the back with new cool air coming in through the front (air will also be sucked through the gap in the glass).

Humidity will exit out a vivarium too quickly if your vents are too big or too high, its really a hope and see thing once it is in its final place ready to add the reptile.

Can always tape over any holes that are not needed and if vents are on the rear you will not have to see it.


Rick

 

[Justdragons]

so get a little more done. Its been wet and we have been sitting up the cutting bench outside so its a slow process.
Anyways I have a few snaps.
Few thongs I would do different next time but I think she will like it..
If anyone can point me in the right direction for glass hinges and locks id quite like that.

You can see we left a good amount of space for heat in the top cavity. Also all thermos and timers will be hidden up here.

Dowel joint doors.. this was a learning curve lol

I put a big drain in with removable grate so in breeding season I can remove the grass and put a big slide in lay tub in the bottom cabinet for her.

Its coming along now. Will stain walnut next week. Then glass.
Not sure if I'm to impatient to do a back ground yet.. lol I want to I got a good hook up for resin. Just need matting.

Any suggestions of things I may have missed welcome..

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[Justdragons]

I've also got a 7mtr heat cord for my lower shelf. im going to use slate I think. Do people find the heat transfer for slate better than a tile? Be ceramic or porcelain.

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[J-A-X]

7 meters is a fair length ! I only use 25w cords and provide basking spots rather than create ambient temps.
Both slate and porcelain will do the job, just depends what you prefer - slate has air pockets so the surface will have a 'gentler' heat than the ceramic
Dowel joints can be a headache without a jig, but it looks like you've got a handle on it

 

[andynic07]

Porcelain is a white vitrified translucent ceramic and ceramics can have different levels of thermal conductivity depending on the level of Al203 but generally speaking they have a similar thermal conductivity as natural stone.