Green tree python enclosure setup help!!

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jennistephen

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Can someone please help me.

Im getting a green tree python this Friday and I don't know what or how to do up an enclosure for him/her I know everything that needs to be in it. If anyone can post a photo of there enclosure to give me an idea it would be really nice I want to make it look nice and to make it feel like home thanks guys :)
 
If I can ask....have u kept snakes before and are u aware of the husbandry requirements for keeping GTP's? What size enclosure is it???

Reason I ask is because this is one python species I would thoroughly research due to their keeping requirements.
 
Er, if you're not fully primed with your enclosure up and running at optimum temperature and humidity, you might want to delay collecting your new pet a bit. I don't think I can post links here, so google Michael Cermak's website The Green Effect and click on "tips". There's all sorts of goodness there. And if you don't already have it, get Greg Maxwell's book The More Complete Chondro immediately.
 
If you just mean decorations, do whatever you want. If you don't know how the entire tank should be set up (heating, ventilation ect) you shouldn't be getting a chondro yet.
 
All up I've had 17 pythons
2 olives, 2 het albino darwins, 2 coastal, 1 jag sibling, 1 diamond, 1 bhp, 4 bredli, 1 jungle, 3 albino Darwin
and yes I am aware of what they need and all the requirements and it's a 4x2x2 enclosure I'm just unshore of how I want to make it look it's all in working order.
 
For starters, you'll need a tall enclosure rather than the standard 4x2x2 box; GTPs are truly arboreal. How old/big is the snake?
 
For starters, you'll need a tall enclosure rather than the standard 4x2x2 box; GTPs are truly arboreal. How old/big is the snake?

An enclosure the size of 4z2x2 feet is more then enough room for a breeding pair. Two feet is enough height. Many people house GTP's in 2ft square cages. Like others have stated it would be a good idea to do a little research before hand. I spent years researching them before I bought one.

Edit:
it also depends on what size the green tree python is. For hatchlings to yearlings I use the sterlite plastic shoe boxes. Make sure it has enough cover. Some of mine don't and do just fine. Others don't fare so well.

heres a quick pic of one of mine. It's as simple yet affective as it gets. I'm useing a RHP, thermostat, two perches, a water dish, and paper towel for substrate.

 
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The breeder / current owner should be able to give you some pointers but basically you'll want a selection of perches (different heights and thicknesses), overhead heating (as they are arboreal) and make sure that whatever is going into the cage / the cage itself isn't prone to mould as they like it humid.
 
We have researched about them for a long time. We were simply asking if we could change things up like having soil in the bottom of the enclosure instead of synthetic grass or paper towel etc. and which is easier manually spraying the tank or a automatic mister and which heat lights are better. We are just trying to find out what people prefer
 
I've done both automatic sprayers and manual - I personally prefer manual because it can't break (sometimes if the automatic sprayer malfunctions you may not notice this).

At the moment I am also in the process of transitioning my animals in to planted enclosures; live plants, soil, a false bottom (for drainage) and insects to keep everything ticking over. I am setting these up for a few weeks (between 4 - 6) prior to introducing any snakes just to make sure that everything is growing as it should. I like the look of them but they are harder than plain tanks. It's just up to the individual :)
 
I don't keep GTP's but I'm interested in what you are doing Falvi, would you mind posting a pic or if you have posted them before putting a link up?
 
You've definitely put the cart before the horse with this one. You should have your enclosure up & running at least a week before you get the animal.

If the snake is a hatchie, or from last year's breeding, a 4x2x2 will kill it. You need to keep it in a tub for at least 12 months or until it is around 60cm before it goes into a larger enclosure.

Heat source should not be from lights, as you will need heat 24/7 most of the time. A heat panel makes more sense when the snake is ready to go into a large enclosure.

60cm height is ample for an adult GTP, despite what has been said here by another member, more if you like, but it then becomes more difficult to heat the lower part of the enclosure.

I think your "research" has been fairly limited.

Jamie
 
Heat source should not be from lights, as you will need heat 24/7 most of the time. A heat panel makes more sense when the snake is ready to go into a large enclosure.

This is great advice, I use a ceramic heat emitter for my larger enclosure which is also functional.
 
You've definitely put the cart before the horse with this one. You should have your enclosure up & running at least a week before you get the animal.

If the snake is a hatchie, or from last year's breeding, a 4x2x2 will kill it. You need to keep it in a tub for at least 12 months or until it is around 60cm before it goes into a larger enclosure.

Heat source should not be from lights, as you will need heat 24/7 most of the time. A heat panel makes more sense when the snake is ready to go into a large enclosure.

60cm height is ample for an adult GTP, despite what has been said here by another member, more if you like, but it then becomes more difficult to heat the lower part of the enclosure.

I think your "research" has been fairly limited.

Jamie
l think to say a 4x2x2 "will kill" last years hatchies is not true/rubbish as mine (holdbacks) are already in 4'high x 2.1/2' square enclosures and they are powering provided they have a suitable hot/warm spot, plus what happens in the wild ? all of my holdbacks just go walk about each night as they have several branches of varying sizes to navigate on, around and over and by early morning they are back on their fav. spot/perch solar 17 mcsym
 
It's not rubbish. I don't talk rubbish Baden. The likelihood that a hatchie will "thrive" in a 4x2x2 is not great. The reasons they need close management when tiny are manyfold - hatchies need high humidity to shed properly on many occasions, and a poor shed on a tiny GTP is much more problematic than on tougher species., a tiny hatchie may get so distant from its heat source in a very large enclosure that it lacks the thermal mass to return to an appropriate site, to name just two.

The reasons GTPs are bred successfully in such numbers now is because the successful management of hatchlings in captivity has become fairly formulaic. There are exceptions, like there is with anything, but largely the code for successful GTP hatchling husbandry, especially for newcomers to the species, has been laid out very clearly by the likes of Greg Maxwell and the wonderful Rico Walder, who may just know a bit more about these things than you do. You speak of holdbacks - what age are these holdbacks? If they are 12 months +, go for it, but hatchlings from the past season... nah, it's very big risk.

It's been said, correctly, on many occasions that keepers cannot equate what happens in the "the wild" (where niche chioces are endless) with what happens in a artificial space we force our animals to live in. The best we can do is average out what we think is the best for the animals in our care.

Jamie
 
It's not rubbish. I don't talk rubbish Baden. The likelihood that a hatchie will "thrive" in a 4x2x2 is not great. The reasons they need close management when tiny are manyfold - hatchies need high humidity to shed properly on many occasions, and a poor shed on a tiny GTP is much more problematic than on tougher species., a tiny hatchie may get so distant from its heat source in a very large enclosure that it lacks the thermal mass to return to an appropriate site, to name just two.

The reasons GTPs are bred successfully in such numbers now is because the successful management of hatchlings in captivity has become fairly formulaic. There are exceptions, like there is with anything, but largely the code for successful GTP hatchling husbandry, especially for newcomers to the species, has been laid out very clearly by the likes of Greg Maxwell and the wonderful Rico Walder, who may just know a bit more about these things than you do. You speak of holdbacks - what age are these holdbacks? If they are 12 months +, go for it, but hatchlings from the past season... nah, it's very big risk.

It's been said, correctly, on many occasions that keepers cannot equate what happens in the "the wild" (where niche chioces are endless) with what happens in a artificial space we force our animals to live in. The best we can do is average out what we think is the best for the animals in our care.

Jamie
You said in a previous post "that will kill it" well that's RUBBISH there are many exceptions mine and several friends THRIVE in bigger enclosures infact power along and thats just plain how it is heat panel some humidty ......solar 17 (Baden)
 
What happens in the wild ,well the way i look on it melboune is not the iron range or new guinea in respect to climatic conditions.
In cold and temperate climates small tubs heat up quicker and they go into larger sizes as they grow out of necessity.
 
It's not rubbish Baden. Haven't you got some emergency prolapses to fix up there mate? Seems they're in plague proportions in Queensland atm :)!

And I'm glad your friends are thriving in bigger enclosures :)!

J
 
Hi Jenni,

Here is a pic of one of our enclosures if it helps - I removed a couple of the fake ferns from the front so you could see in behind but basic recommendations would be:

NWybxcp.jpg


Water bowl mounted on the side of the enclosure (stops them defecating in their water and gives them more ground space when they wander).

A large tub of damp Sphagnum moss kept underneath the heat source will help with humidity in the enclosure (you can see its normally hidden behind the plants.

Plenty of various sized branches in the enclosure roughly as thick as the GTP is.

Fake plants - bugs and ants etc can cause problems for your babies.

We have successfully used Repti-bark and Aspen in the bottom of our enclosures, I have also tried critter crumble but find it seems to dry the enclosure out more affecting the humidity.

Invest in a $10-15 plant sprayer from bunnings. I spray our enclosures down with warm water when humidity falls under 60-70%. With enough sphagnum moss in there I find I only really have to give them a good spray down once a week. An adult GTP does not need to be kept in 100% humidity, in fact that can be detrimental to them. Keeping our humidity around that as recommended by some of the top breeders our guys have never had a problem shedding, feeding, breeding etc.

We have some of our enclosures set up with heat emmiters and some with heat panels. Personally I prefer the panels but to be honest the snakes don't seem to care either way ;)

Oh - and the holes in the side at the top for good ventilation. That also helps stabilise the humidity etc

Miss Prettys enclosure.jpg
 
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Umbral - this photo is from a little while ago (before perches were added) - there has been a bit of tweaking since then :) The hessian at the back is to facilitate plant growth so that eventually it is completely grown over. The dendroboard forums have some great live tanks.


9WgG2BP.jpg



http://i.imgur.com/YTZgJVR.jpg
 
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