Outrageous bulb prices

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The only "safe" way I could think of was using an angle grinder to grind the edge of the glass attached to the reflector...but alas, no grinder.
 
I tried this once. "Tried" being the word.
How do the hell do you remove the glass lens?
Gently???
I honestly tried a hammer & nail to shatter the lens...even a screwdriver to chisel a wedge...no luck at all without risking damaging the entire bulb.

Small grinder type device like a dremel?
 
Correct my naiveness but I always thought two different light spectrums would clash & possibly alter the uv qualities...?

Sorry I'm a lil confused about the point your making here? Lizards require UVA & UVB... UVA is provided through basking lamps which also produce heat.. UVB is provided through compact globes or fluros... Or you can use MVB's which provide UVA, UVB & Heat all from one source...
 
No,I'm sorry if I've caused the confusion. You mentioned using a 100 watt spotlight from Bunnings which is a light that just happens to give off heat due to its intensity.
I was just simply wondering if its spectrum would clash/alter any other light source?
Would the B alter or disfuse the A?

I think I might juz be confusing myself...
 
No,I'm sorry if I've caused the confusion. You mentioned using a 100 watt spotlight from Bunnings which is a light that just happens to give off heat due to its intensity.
I was just simply wondering if its spectrum would clash/alter any other light source?
Would the B alter or disfuse the A?

I think I might juz be confusing myself...

Ahhhh I see... All good mate... Yeah I have a 100 & 120 watt spotlight that gives off some decent temps :)
 
No,I'm sorry if I've caused the confusion. You mentioned using a 100 watt spotlight from Bunnings which is a light that just happens to give off heat due to its intensity.
I was just simply wondering if its spectrum would clash/alter any other light source?
Would the B alter or disfuse the A?

I think I might juz be confusing myself...

Nope. The sun seems to manage outputting light, heat, UVA, UVB, etc without any problems :) all they are are different frequencies/wavelengths of light, but they are not that dissimilar in phase or length that they would cause disruption.


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I think you're thinking of sound. Light doesn't really interfere with light. Two oncoming cars headlights don't cancel out and leave us in darkness.

Without going into the physics of it, think of light as a particle. Sound is a wave that can cancel each other out.

(I know some physics people will chime in here, so yes, light is a wave and a particle but it doesn't act like a wave in this sense)
 
I have also tried and failed to remove the len without breaking the reflector. There is a reptile branded diochronic bulb sold in pet shops without the lens but you pay more for them.

Sorry guys i should have explained how i did it,: i have a butane gas soldering iron that also works as a mini butane burner if the tip is screwed off, i used that and a disposable scalpel (available at most chemist shops or from a friendly herp vet) first i heated the area where the silastic type material holds the lens in place and then using a combination of the heat and scalpel i gently prized the lens off, it might be best noted that the lens wants to go back into it's original position when you first start out so get a few tooth pics and slip them between the lens and reflector (being carefull not to push tooth pics too far and possably damaging the filament) just take it slow and easy using the same patience you use with a juvinile snake and you will not crack the reflector, if a clumsy old man like me with fingers like fijian banana's can do it i am sure you all can do it as well, slow and steady breaks the seal, oh and please use protective gloves and eye protection :) .......................................Ron
 
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Cheers Stevo & Silverbeast for understanding my confusion & then explaining the reasons why...

I was looking at the spectrum as colours. One source may be giving off red, the other blue, but once they intersected with each other you'd no longer see the true individual colours.
 
Sorry guys i should have explained how i did it,: i have a butane gas soldering iron that also works as a mini butane burner if the tip is screwed off, i used that and a disposable scalpel (available at most chemist shops or from a friendly herp vet) first i heated the area where the silastic type material holds the lens in place and then using a combination of the heat and scalpel i gently prized the lens off, it might be best noted that the lens wants to go back into it's original position when you first start out so get a few tooth pics and slip them between the lens and reflector (being carefull not to push tooth pics too far and possably damaging the filament) just take it slow and easy using the same patience you use with a juvinile snake and you will not crack the reflector, if a clumsy old man like me with fingers like fijian banana's can do it i am sure you all can do it as well, slow and steady breaks the seal, oh and please use protective gloves and eye protection :) .......................................Ron

Chemists in NSW no longer sell scalpels or even suture blades due to new laws brought in because of idiots using them as weapons. The only place you can legally buy them from a shop front now is a hobby shop.
 
Hi all
To those wondering how to get the glass off the dichroic lights, you can simply get one of those glass scoring blades (they are a small cutting wheel on the end of a pen shaped device) most hardware shops sell them. Once you have that just run it firmly but not too crazy across the front of the lens in a wheel spoke type pattern (like cutting a pizza) eventually the glass will collapse and you can just pull it away. Have done it many times only takes a minute or two
 
Cheers Stevo & Silverbeast for understanding my confusion & then explaining the reasons why...

I was looking at the spectrum as colours. One source may be giving off red, the other blue, but once they intersected with each other you'd no longer see the true individual colours.

You don't perceive the individual colours, in your example, but they're still there (take away one and you'll still see the other).

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i get mine off abay a lot cheaper than pet shops. i usually pay $15-20 for a ceramic and free delivery and 5-12 for a bulb and deliver is a couple of dollars.
 
I liked the part about bulbs exploding....especially AFTER my attempt trying to remove the lens with a hammer & nail. :shock:
 
Interesting read on Dichroic Halogen Lamps... Good or bad? I'll let you decide... Check it out...

http://www.reptileuvinfo.com/docs/dichroic-halogen-report.pdf
Interesting. I have wondered about the amount of UVB and the possability of dangerous UVC but never about bulbs exploding. These lamps sold for many years without the glass cover and never heard of big risks of exploding lamps. I have only seen them in the past few years all advertising the covers as UV blockers.

While I hadn't found away to easily remove the glass and not knowing if it was even worth the effort I have not used them for UV. They still make great heat lamps for some small enclosures but you do need to have a heat guard over them. I also supply reptile UVA/B compacts for these set ups.

The article is also interesting about the mercury vapour lamps not specifically for reptiles with ordinary glass fronts blocking the UV. I have used alternative mercuray vapour bulbs sold cheaper than reptile branded ones. I have not seen any problems develop from these but I also use calcium with vitamin D suppliments.

The UV meter I have is a broad spectrum combined UVA and UVB and found its use limited in indicating a bulb is due to be replaced. Looks like the model they decribe in the article is the only one out there that can tell us the real UVB level.
 
Interesting. I have wondered about the amount of UVB and the possability of dangerous UVC but never about bulbs exploding. These lamps sold for many years without the glass cover and never heard of big risks of exploding lamps. I have only seen them in the past few years all advertising the covers as UV blockers.

While I hadn't found away to easily remove the glass and not knowing if it was even worth the effort I have not used them for UV. They still make great heat lamps for some small enclosures but you do need to have a heat guard over them. I also supply reptile UVA/B compacts for these set ups.

The article is also interesting about the mercury vapour lamps not specifically for reptiles with ordinary glass fronts blocking the UV. I have used alternative mercuray vapour bulbs sold cheaper than reptile branded ones. I have not seen any problems develop from these but I also use calcium with vitamin D suppliments.

The UV meter I have is a broad spectrum combined UVA and UVB and found its use limited in indicating a bulb is due to be replaced. Looks like the model they decribe in the article is the only one out there that can tell us the real UVB level.

You can get UVA passband and UVB passband optical filters only really cheaply, so there is no reason why a UV meter that measures both UVA and UVB can't be easily modified to give UVA and UVB outputs in particular.
 
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