Heating questions

[user 38619]

Hello together,

I purchased our spotted python 3 weeks ago and Kellyvill Pets and also bought a hatchling enclosure and heat map from them.

Is it ok that the temperature f
fluctuates between 27-34c ?

Quite surprised that there is so much changes as I would have thought heat map with combined thermometer would keep it steady?

Thanks

Steve

 

[Snowman]

Probably okay. Don't get thermometer and thermostat confused.

 

[Pythoninfinite]

That's "heat mat" I presume? And do you mean thermostat or thermometer?

Jamie

 

[user 38619]

Sorry typing on phone, yes heat mat including attached thermostats which I put on top of heat mat and is supposed to keep temperature at same level

 

[Snowman]

Sounds like a cheap on off thermostat that is over and under shooting.

 

[Pauls_Pythons]

Try moving the thermostat probe somewhere else in the enclosure not so close to the heat source

 

[Grogshla]

I would suggest a pulse style thermostat. Also try and get a seperate thermometer just so you can double check the temp. In most of my setups I have the thermostat probe and the thermometer probe together in the same place so I can double check that everything is in order.

 

[Striker]

Probe placement makes a massive difference. Bit of trial and error involved while still monitoring temps at various spots within the enclosure.

I also try (and others may have other better ideas) to use a heat source where a switching thermostat barely does anything and is there more as a safety precaution rather than temp controller (this is different if you're using pulse or dimming thermostat). For example I have worked out a slate heat tile with 15w heat cord that struggles to reach 40 degrees. Then set the thermostat at the appropriate temp. This gives 2 features. It takes longer to heat up meaning the thermostat isn't turning off and on every 2 minutes (as would occur if it was heating quickly). Secondly I know that if for some reason the thermostat fails, nothing major is going to happen because it just can't get too hot.

 

[Snowman]

Has anyone EVER had a thermostat fail that resulted in it staying on? Just curious as most are designer to fail safe off.
Of bigger concern is when heating banks of enclosures with one thermostat. In that situation you definitely don't want a heat source that has the potential to cool animals. If the heat where the probe is fails the other vivs will go flat out.

 

[andynic07]

Has anyone EVER had a thermostat fail that resulted in it staying on? Just curious as most are designer to fail safe off.
Of bigger concern is when heating banks of enclosures with one thermostat. In that situation you definitely don't want a heat source that has the potential to cool animals. If the heat where the probe is fails the other vivs will go flat out.

I bought two secondhand microclimate b1 thermostats from a member on here and when they arrived they both both did not work resulting in the heat staying on. The light would go off when it would reach temperature but the headlight would not dim. I have also had a fish tank heater fail in the on position.

 

[Striker]

Has anyone EVER had a thermostat fail that resulted in it staying on? Just curious as most are designer to fail safe off.

Good question. I've never had one fail, and when reading stories of thermostats failing I guess I've just assumed (incorrectly it would appear) that the heat source stays on uncontrolled. Would like to hear an answer to your question.

 

[saximus]

I bought two secondhand microclimate b1 thermostats from a member on here and when they arrived they both both did not work resulting in the heat staying on. The light would go off when it would reach temperature but the headlight would not dim. I have also had a fish tank heater fail in the on position.

I've actually fixed a couple of them that failed in a similar way. For some reason the triacs they use seem to have a tendency to fail closed, especially after a power surge.

 

[andynic07]

I've actually fixed a couple of them that failed in a similar way. For some reason the triacs they use seem to have a tendency to fail closed, especially after a power surge.

Well done mate, I am sending mine to a friend to fix for me. Did you get a circuit diagram to work out what was going on or did you have a guess at it?

 

[saximus]

Well done mate, I am sending mine to a friend to fix for me. Did you get a circuit diagram to work out what was going on or did you have a guess at it?

Thanks . I'm an electrical engineer and I built a thermostat/hygrostat for my final thesis so I had a pretty good idea of what things did what. There's a lot of circuitry but really there are only a couple of probable culprits. The triac is kind of like an electronic relay so it's the thing that controls the output and works the hardest. If yours is the same model, tell your friend to look at that first. They're about $2 from places like Jaycar

 

[Snowman]

I bought two secondhand microclimate b1 thermostats from a member on here and when they arrived they both both did not work resulting in the heat staying on. The light would go off when it would reach temperature but the headlight would not dim. I have also had a fish tank heater fail in the on position.

That's very interesting. My habistats have only ever failed off... My first one had no fuse so ended up in the bin. The other was the relay on an on off and I replaced it with a dimming model.

 

[andynic07]

Thanks . I'm an electrical engineer and I built a thermostat/hygrostat for my final thesis so I had a pretty good idea of what things did what. There's a lot of circuitry but really there are only a couple of probable culprits. The triac is kind of like an electronic relay so it's the thing that controls the output and works the hardest. If yours is the same model, tell your friend to look at that first. They're about $2 from places like Jaycar

Cheers mate, I will let him know to look there first. I was pretty annoyed at first about the whole situation but you have given a lot more hope now.

That's very interesting. My habistats have only ever failed off... My first one had no fuse so ended up in the bin. The other was the relay on an on off and I replaced it with a dimming model.

Hope you are not showing off with your superior electronics.

 

[Snowman]

Hope you are not showing off with your superior electronics.

Nope my electronics sucks. both times I bought new thermostats. Soldering is for losers

 

[benjamind2010]

I've actually fixed a couple of them that failed in a similar way. For some reason the triacs they use seem to have a tendency to fail closed, especially after a power surge.

A GOOD reason NOT to buy any of these so-called "microprocessor controlled" stats.

I am planning on converting all of my stats to switch type, a la THAT040 thermostats. I already have one, 10+ years old and still good as gold. To the topic at hand, no, I do NOT want my snakes being cooked to death because of some crappy component. A power surge should not cause a thermostat to fail and keep the circuit closed - that means it's a dodgy thermostat and I wouldn't trust it.
Come to think of it, I think I'll retire my Microclimate B1 soon, and throw it away. That isn't the sort of thing I want to risk the health, or indeed lives, of my snakes on!

 

[saximus]

That's a fair enough call about wanting something reliable but I disagree your reasoning. If you have a heater that has the capability to cook an animal, you're not setting it up correctly. Even on a thermostat you should be setting your heater wattage to suit the enclosure size.

 

[andynic07]

I have heard good things about Carel thermostats but they cost about $350, but they last.