Stimson feeding. Out of ideas

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If a python is being a fussy eater, and nothing has changed that might cause undue stress, then maybe it's just not hungry? My pythons have a more agressive feeding response fresh out of winter, but by mid summer when they have barely skipped a meal in months they can stop striking altogether and just pick up the meal and swallow. If they don't lose weight even though they're skipping meals, then it doesn't matter.

Meanwhile, think about what might be causing a python stress? Has the enclosure moved, is there more foot traffic nearby, have you had a heat-wave or cold spell recently? (contrary to popular belief, hotter is not always better. I try very hard to give a broad temperature gradient. On hot days, I try to make sure the snake can access a cool spot. If your cool end is over 24 degrees, it might be too hot.) Just because it hasn't eaten, doesn't mean you should shove a rat in it's face every 3 days. That might just make things worse. Sometimes they just want to be left alone for a fortnight. Keep an eye out for any signs of ill-health, keep an eye out for weight loss, and don't panic.
 
The colour of the mouse will not effect if it eats it or not. Force feeding hatchlings has more to do with the fact they eat small birds, geckos, frogs ect not domesticated rats and mice.

Also you might want to have a look at what Jamie posts on other threads, clearly he knows what he is talking about.

So you have met every snake out there and know for a fact colour has nothingto do with it?
I never said jamie didnt know what he is talking about I simply stated my experiance with my animals.
 
So you have met every snake out there and know for a fact colour has nothingto do with it?
I never said jamie didnt know what he is talking about I simply stated my experiance with my animals.

This >>>>

. To pander to a snake and allow it to dictate to the keeper to the point where it won't eat coloured rats or mice is ridiculous, and is largely an artefact of bad management in the beginning. This in turn is a result of the (usually new) keeper not being prepared or experienced enough to wait them out.

Jamie
 
Or maybe I found what worked for my snake? If there is no hassles feeding her this way why change and waste food items if I dont have to? I dont doubt if I left her without food long enough she would eat what she is given. But I dont wish to do that. There is nothing wrong with my husbandry, all animals are individuals and have preferences. The coloured mice was only discovered when I started breeding my own and found she wouldnt take them after being fed store bought white mice most of her life, that was not bad management. She will take them if I brain them and continuously offer them, but I preffer the ease of picking out the white ones for her. I am not a breeder, she is a pet and family to me and due to my emotional attachment do not mind giving what she preffers.

And in saying that how many breeders force feed hatchies? Are you saying they have bad husbandry? To quote you, how would they get on in the wild?..

I would say that force-feeding is not a regular requirement for most breeders, and when it is used it's generally because we almost always offer our commonly kept snakes rodents from the time they start feeding. Pinky rodents are not the natural diet for hatchling pythons - small lizards such as skinks & geckos are. In almost every case, a hatchling which is reluctant to eat small mice or rats will avidly feed on lizards if they are offered. The exceptions are when the snake in question has some sort of physiological compromise - not all animals are born physically perfect, and those animals would probably die anyway.

I don't really see what this has to do with the colour thing though, and I absolutely acknowledge your right to feed your animals whatever you want to feed them, for whatever reasons. I just think that discussions about "fussy" snakes need to be kept in perspective. They are not naughty children refusing to eat their Brussel's sprouts. What a keeper CHOOSES to do and what NEEDS to be done are often two different things.

Jamie
 
hi, as with the other stimie owners my girl went off her food for 3-4mths and even now she will only take food if i pinch the nose of it and make it bleed, she is kept with year round heat as i have no intention on breeding but she is only just now taking food every 2weeks again, i worry that one rat isnt enough but i have to trust her instincts and she has only ever lost 20grms - i tried braining and the egg idea and leaving food in over nite but if it doesn't move (with me dangling it near her) she wont even strike or take notice of it. she is 2.5yrs now and 880grms at 1.2mtrs. Its hard not to worry tho but i am sure if left in peace for a few weeks it will come around :) good luck
Try a day old chick... Fussy stimi's go nuts for them
 
Hi guys just getting back to this thread as my stimmy still hasn't eaten. Offered him a fuzzy mouse yesterday and completely refused. He drank the water off it's fur and left it alone... He has lost abit of weight and has thinned out a little. Realizing now that he stopped eating after I fitted the backing to his enclosure. Any further ideas to possibly help me?
 
Ok thanks mate will most pet shops that sell rodents sell them aswell?
 
Just stop stressing yourself over it. Leave it for a month or two if necessary. Anyone experienced with Antaresias knows this characteristic very well - they sometimes stop eating for several MONTHS for no apparent reason, and it does them no harm - all it does is stress the inexperienced owner out.

Stop offering food and try again at the end of November.

Jamie
 
Got chicks on hold for tomorrow. Going to try one and if no luck I'll go with what you've said Jaimie. I'm alot less stressed this week then the last. The foods not going to waste my big girls taking the extra.
 
Great if he does eat it, but don't worry if he doesn't :)!

Jamie
 
Hi guys just getting back to this thread as my stimmy still hasn't eaten. Offered him a fuzzy mouse yesterday and completely refused. He drank the water off it's fur and left it alone... He has lost abit of weight and has thinned out a little. Realizing now that he stopped eating after I fitted the backing to his enclosure. Any further ideas to possibly help me?
Can u confirm for me without going all through the thread to what temps this snake has available in its enclosure?.. Thanks Pete
 
He has 33-32 hot end 25-27 cold(depending if the thermostat is on or off) I've read a few things about yearlings and that they can be more comfortable set a 29 constant all over enclosure. So I'm considering moving him to a click clack and setting the temp to 29 all over.
 
He has 33-32 hot end 25-27 cold(depending if the thermostat is on or off) I've read a few things about yearlings and that they can be more comfortable set a 29 constant all over enclosure. So I'm considering moving him to a click clack and setting the temp to 29 all over.

Don't do that, a thermal gradient is always the way to go. A clickclack may help though as it's smaller and less open.
 
Heat mat under 1/3 of click clack and keep it simple till starts eating.. What has it eaten before?

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I need to re read this thread

- - - Updated - - -

What state u in?
 
Okay it's so hard as with this hobby there is so many varied opinions. I always try do as much research as possible before I ask a question. If the chick isn't taken tomorrow I'll definitely look at the click clack. I have everything I need but won't do the move until after I try the feed.
 
Heat mat under 1/3 of click clack and keep it simple till starts eating.. What has it eaten before?

- - - Updated - - -

I need to re read this thread

- - - Updated - - -

What state u in?

Yeah his enclosure has been 1/3 heat chord under tiles under enclosure. Run on a digital thermostat with thermometers on both ends just to be sure. I'm in south east qld. ATM our temperature is all over the place. One day is really hot the next is noticeably cooler. Same with nights. I'm just happy if my temps are staying around 33-34 and 25-28 the temps at the top are always a little lower and he climbs his vine on the odd occasion.
 
My 3yr old female is honestly a perfect snake. She sits in her hot spot for 3-4 days after her feed. Always active at night. Then will defecate and then stays in the cool end until day 7 then will move back to the hot end and I know she's ready for her feed. Open the enclosure door and offer the rat and takes it instantly. Only issue with her is she's cheeky and when I handle her if she finds a finger not next to the rest she decides to open her mouth and slowly try latch on.
 
Something playing on my mind. Could any left over fumes from the silicon I used to fit the background into enclosure have caused any issues with feeding? Seems silly to me but thought I would ask...
 
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