Black Melamine

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I put a coat or two of water based cabots clear varnish on the cut ends of melamine prior to assembly to seal the exposed ends then I sikaflex (or silicon) the joins. This gives added protection from moisture should the silicon come away in the future. Its not necessary but I enjoy the peace of mind given the time it takes to apply and dry Vs building a new enclosure.

Aaron
 
The formply I got was $24 for a 1200L must have found a bargain :)
Wow that sounds cheap for form ply. 1200 is also half a sheet isn't it.
 

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Anyone wanting to cut melamine without chipping on a tablesaw without a scribe blade can do one or both of two things.

1/ Make up a zero clearance insert. It's the metal bit that comes off the table so you can change blades. Trace around it on a piece of same thickness wood, place the wood insert into the slot, have a weight on it away from the area of the blade, and slowly raise the blade to cut a slit in it. (This can be dangerous if the blade picks up the back of it. The metal insert is heavy and doesn't make contact with the blade. The wood insert is light and does make contact......forget about it next time you raise the blade and it will throw the insert in your face!!! ).

What this does is provide support for the resin where the blade exits the melamine and passes through the zero clearance slot.

2/ Run the melamine through the saw with the blade set at barely 1mm. This plays the part of the scribe blade. Then raise the blade so half the blade tooth sits just above the surface and make the final cut. "Step 2 does not need a zero clearance insert".

A fine tooth (60 - 80 teeth) blade is recommended. Higher the better.

A plunge saw with a guide rail is also another option but you still need to make the 1mm pass.
 
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You may also need black sealing strip, (ie iron on edging) to cover any exposed edge. Or you could paint it black, (great song) to seal and hide.
 
Just to rip the scab off the silicone debate again... I've always used neutral cure kitchen & bathroom sealant with my enclosures, with no apparent problems. I think you'll find that the hazards indicated in the MSDS are released during cure. Most silicones (neutral and acid cure) are extremely stable for many years once fully cured. If they continued to outgas over a long period of time, they would very likely noticeably deteriorate as they age.

Don't forget that we place our animals in enclosures made from particleboard which has formaldehyde (less now, but still there) as an adhesive component to hold the matrix together. I wonder how much of this noxious, carcinogenic gas migrates through the thin melamine coating into the enclosed, poorly ventilated space in which our reptiles live. Even if you keep your snakes inside your house, they are exposed to a whole range of airborne chemicals, from kitchen fumes, carpet chemical outgassing, cabinetry and paint chemical outgassing. I would suggest that a minute bead of mould resistant silicone is very unlikely to cause any problems for a reptile inhabitant, considering all the other noxious substances they are exposed to.

Jamie
 
That is a good price for a half sheet.

I thought so too, I have a double bay and a single that sits on top of the double built from it now. Even at the higher price if it goes up I can't see myself going back to melamine. Personal preference I guess.
 
Acetic cure silicone produces gas while it cures. Submerged it will leach into the water, as does neutral cure.
Go into your kitchen and bath room the silicones used by tradesman are usually acetic for everything except when contact with metal.
 
Btw once cured acetic cure and neutral cure m&m resistant are approved for use around food prep areas
 
Just to rip the scab off the silicone debate again... I've always used neutral cure kitchen & bathroom sealant with my enclosures, with no apparent problems. I think you'll find that the hazards indicated in the MSDS are released during cure. Most silicones (neutral and acid cure) are extremely stable for many years once fully cured. If they continued to outgas over a long period of time, they would very likely noticeably deteriorate as they age.

Don't forget that we place our animals in enclosures made from particleboard which has formaldehyde (less now, but still there) as an adhesive component to hold the matrix together. I wonder how much of this noxious, carcinogenic gas migrates through the thin melamine coating into the enclosed, poorly ventilated space in which our reptiles live. Even if you keep your snakes inside your house, they are exposed to a whole range of airborne chemicals, from kitchen fumes, carpet chemical outgassing, cabinetry and paint chemical outgassing. I would suggest that a minute bead of mould resistant silicone is very unlikely to cause any problems for a reptile inhabitant, considering all the other noxious substances they are exposed to.

Jamie

Hence the need to take into consideration the stories of the people who have been there and done that.
 
Wow that sounds cheap for form ply. 1200 is also half a sheet isn't it.

I just realised that that sheet is 1200 wide, the ones I got were 1200x600 so 1/4 the size hence the price. At those dimensions they are perfect for the size I like to build with no cutting required.
 
I know my local bunnings can get in black melamine for the same price as white ( Gosford ). Not sure if it's HMR or not but doesn't really make a difference. I know a breeder who has been using the cheap melamine just sealed with 'no more gaps' ( obviously non toxic one ) for a good 12 years and all his enclosures are still standing. Only problem with black melamine is that I cannot find black glass tracks >.<
 
So I ended up buying the formply, cost a fair bit extra but now have a bit more peace of mind I guess. I'll keep you all up to speed with the progress of everything if anyone is interested.

I too wish they made black glass tracks. May have to vinyl over them or something. I was told that I can mix 1 part water with 1 part wood glue to seal all the ends up. Wait until dry and then use the black edging to finish it off. I think I'll still be sticking with the aquarium silicon for the corners of the whole thing though.

Thanks again everyone
 
they should last the rest of your lifetime being made from form ply :)

Run a build thread so we can all keep an eye on how you are going
 
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