Click clack Done . Waiting for my hatchie now .

Aussie Pythons & Snakes Forum

Help Support Aussie Pythons & Snakes Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Status
Not open for further replies.

MathersD

Active Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2013
Messages
125
Reaction score
0
Location
Wynnum , Qld
Going to run it for a few days and see how it runs . Got a duel thermometer and a thermostat on the heat mat . What arw the temps I should be aiming for
tasu8apu.jpg
a2y5ejyt.jpg
dapevu3a.jpg


Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk
 
you payed 52$ for a heatmat!!,
nice click clack set up though one thing if it is a hatchy i would be cautious of the gaps where the clips are, as i recently put my young spotted in one similar to yours and it escaped., although your lid may be different to mine
 
Heatpad comes with its own thermostat . And duel digital thermometers to make sure the temps are correct in hot and cold spots

Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk
 
I am getting a Bredli . Still got to be put a few hides .

Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk
 
tapes a big no no in any reptile enclosure it sticks to the scales and can cause the skin to tear , there are few horror story on that stuff floating about
 
Since no one else has answered your question, generally you want the hot spot to be around 32-35 degrees and then aim for the cool side of the tank to be in the mid to low twenties to give a nice large thermal gradient for the snake to choose from. Everyone else seems to have the other things sorted to tell you.
Cheers Cameron
 
This is what I would be using for any hatchling carpet, its a 7 litre sistema tub from BigW or woollies ($10-12) 7x 2mm air holes are drilled on both ends, low on the heat side and high on the cool side.

Once the lid is lock down in 4 positions it is escape proof, place heat under 1/3 or 1/4 of the container (play with the position of the thermostat probe to get 33c).

From the pictures you have supplied it looks like a hatchy could squeeze though the gap between the lid and the side, as they can get through a 3-5mm gap.

I have found Starmaid from BigW or woollies make good large "click clack" tubs from 10-115 litre, once the lid is on there is usually no more than a 1mm gap.


View attachment 302169
 
Last edited:
That looks great! One thing no one else has picked up on, I would be removing the tape holding the tub to the table. You want the heat mat to be able to vent excess heat via the sides or it will build up heat and get too hot. I always have a 4-6mm gap bellow my click clack tubs so the heat mat has no direct contact with the tub. This way you won't get temp spikes with changes in ambient room temps
 
Like yellowbeard, I am a fan of the Sistema tubs and use them for my hatchlings. They lock down very tight. This is very big and will be suitable for an advanced hatchling, but gaps at the top may afford an escape opportunity for a smaller animal. Probably not, but I have only put adult Antaresia in similar tubs for transport.

If putting in a small hatchy, I suggest some lower climbing opportunities such as plastic garden mesh. I like to use small boxes from tablets as my hides. I save them all year for my clutches. They provide a nice tight hiding spot. As they grow, you can upsize to larger boxes and eventually upside down ice cream containers. I just throw out the boxes when soiled.
 
Thanks all , will be going and getting a new container and will start again ( use this one when hatchie bigger ) really glad i started this ,
Cheers
 
This is what I would be using for any hatchling carpet, its a 7 litre sistema tub from BigW or woollies ($10-12) 7x 2mm air holes are drilled on both ends, low on the heat side and high on the cool side.

Just a small thing but I would put the ventilation the other way around, high on the heat side and low on the cool side, heat rises and escapes through the holes up high.
 
Just a small thing but I would put the ventilation the other way around, high on the heat side and low on the cool side, heat rises and escapes through the holes up high.

This way should create a higher thermo gradient, how ever this is not what I am after :)
 
If it were me l would put a narrower (smaller) perch in there "plus" a couple more at different heights as hatchie Bredli will perch from day dot and they "definately" will eat better when perching thats a given solar 17 ... ps. the body width of a snake is a good guide for the diameter of their perch
 
uve7y3y6.jpg
u9e9u8av.jpg



Changes made

Thanks to all the good ideas

Will get smaller dowels for it aswell .

Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I would the run the dowel down the middle from the hot end to the cool end, with an open bottom hide in the hot area corner half on the heat, paper towel for the substrate and a water bowel at the cool end.:)
 
I would the run the dowel down the middle from the hot end to the cool end, with an open bottom hide in the hot area corner half on the heat, paper towel for the substrate and a water bowel at the cool end.:)
+1
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top