Bearded dragon won't move or eat

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I would take the advice you have been given and worry less about letting her brumate and more about getting the temperature right and new uvb. That is more concerning at this point. Everyone has there own opinion but I think everyone would agree those are the two things you should focus on for now
 
I will buy a new UVB lamp. I also have a heating pad under the tank for warmth. It's small so she can move from it whenever she wants a cooler spot. During brumation, should I leave her alone? I don't know much about it. Thank-you kindly for your help and information. I appreciate it very much and I'm learning things I didn't know.

Hi yellowbeard.....thank-you for the info about your beardie...very interesting and I will keep this in mind and try the same with mine.

I forgot to ask about the temperature during brumation......should she be cool or warm?

How often do they brumate? She has never done this before, just once she didn't eat for 2 weeks but was still awake

It's just after 12:00am here in Ontario Canada. Happy New Year Everyone!!!!


I keep mine the same temp hot spot all year round summer I use a 40watt spot light and in winter a 60watt, I don't breed these.

If they brumate, it is usually once a year during winter, I have had some in the same enclosure that brumate while others don't, brumation is not hibernation and they can still be alert and still look at you while doing it as yours did for 2 weeks, it is an evolutionary ability for the dragon to slow its metabolic process in time of famine, water shortage and lack of heat for proper digestion which is winter:). Also during a long winter brumation males will produce good sperm and the females good follicles ready for the spring mating (giddidy).

It can be for a few weeks or a few months (the dragon will decide this! as long as you don't change the environment), dehydration can be a concern as in the wild they will burrow down into soil to brumate they will absorb moisture from their environment via their vent, so when she is basking spray her head lightly with water and see if she drinks and also once a week light spray over her if she chooses to go back to her brumation.
 
Ok.....thank you everyone for all the advice. I will do my best and have learned a lot from all of you.
 
She is no longer brumating but she will not eat anything she is supposed to. All she will eat are worms.....super worms and blue horn worms as a treat. This has been an ongoing problem and I don't know what to do about it.

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She will not eat any veggies or fruit or lizard food. She never really ate much since I got her other than crickets and now super worms. I live in Ontario, Canada and it is winter now.

"How to train your Dragon" LOL, at her age she should be on a diet consisting of 70-80% vegies 20-30% live food (this percentage is reversed for juveniles), sounds like she has never been "trained" to eat vegies.

If she is in good condition (nice big tail) offer vegies every day or second day and don't give any live food until she eats her vegies, I like to use shredded Endive with a bit of grated carrot (to get them going) and you can mix this up a bit once she is used to eating vegies. If you search the net for Bearded Dragon diets you will find sites with tables that list good and bad vegies for Bearded Dragons.

This can also work for pellet food such as Rep-Cal Adult Bearded Dragon Food which is a fortified daily diet that can replaced vegies and live food.
 
I have been giving her veggies, dark lettuce and fruit since I got her. I leave them and spray water to keep them moist but she won't touch them even if she hasn't eaten anything else. She just walks through them and they dry out. It doesn't matter how long she goes without live food she will still not eat the veggies or fruit.

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Have you tried putting a worm or two in the vegies? I have heard this recommended for fussy eaters.
 
I have tried putting the worms in with the veggies and lettuce but she takes so long to grab the worm it keeps getting away and I have to grab it and put it back. Most of the time she grabs it just when it gets out of the veggies and therefore doesn't get anything but the worm
 
Not sure if I have missed it, but we still don't know what temperatures you are running in your tank at the moment.
 
The basking spot should be around the 40C mark that explains it all, what are you using for heating?
 
Warmest is 28C and coolest is 18C

I would say that this is the problem shame you did supply this information in the beginning.


What are you using for your heat source? Your heat source should provide a basking spot temp around 40C (104F). I like to use spot light globes to achieve this (as said before 40watts in summer and 60watts in winter) because you are in Canada the ambient room temp will be a lot lower than what it is here in Australia, I am guessing here but a 80-100watt spot light should be able to provide this.


I turn the spot light on, place thermometer probe on basking site in middle of light to test that I am reaching the required temp (40C or 104F) and I also run a thermostat probe at the cool end to switch off at around 28C or 82F.

If your temps are to low the basking site needs to be closer to the heat source or the wattage of the globe needs to be increased.
If your temps are to high the basking site needs to be further away from the heat source or the wattage of the globe needs to be decreased.
 
we have been telling you this whole thread to get your temps up between40-45 and you didnt listen to us. Sometimes I don't know why I bother
 
we have been telling you this whole thread to get your temps up between40-45 and you didnt listen to us. Sometimes I don't know why I bother

Because your a nice person and care about animal welfare :)
 
It's not that I didn't listen.....I didn't have a thermometer. I do care about her or I wouldn't be asking for help on here. Maybe the red heat bulb I have is not strong enough. I will go to the pet store tomorrow and buy another one. Please don't say you don't know why you bother because you are helping me and I appreciate it.
 
If you have a glass tank, it will require a higher wattage heat globe to get the required temps. As long as you have the necessary heat, and UV, your dragon should get better. Depending how long it has not had optimum conditions, it may take a little while to come back to normal. And as Yellowbeard said, the ambient temps will be lower, so that is something to keep in mind when trying to achieve good tank temps.
 
It's not that I didn't listen.....I didn't have a thermometer. I do care about her or I wouldn't be asking for help on here. Maybe the red heat bulb I have is not strong enough. I will go to the pet store tomorrow and buy another one. Please don't say you don't know why you bother because you are helping me and I appreciate it.

Get rid of the red bulb and use a white bulb. Red will disturb it.
 
Don't use a red bulb. Use a regular white bulb. Red is no good
 
If the ambient temps are low, she might need to leave the bulb on, with either a thermostat or a timer (preferred option, as the bulbs last longer). The red globe is less intrusive than a white one when the beardie is trying to sleep.
 
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