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You must be doing something wrong if you cant get temps over 30 deg C with two runs of cord MidsReps.
I can easily achieve 37-40 deg C at the hot spot with two runs, I don't use a thermostat either in any of my racks or enclosures...
 
Heat rises so its logical for that to happen. In a heated room the ceiling will always be warmer then the floor, with differing levels of heat stratification right through the air column.
There is two heat cords in this rack one does the lower 4 shelves and one does the upper. If its a concern (1-2 degrees difference) you could put them on seperate thermostats and have the upper one turned back a bit. Or put the top end snakes up high and diamonds down the bottom. There is no rules here, the rack should be tested and used accordingly to suit what is being kept and the environment (room, shed, garage etc) it is being kept in. It is low wattage for a reason, in a controlled room it is easy to get the right temps without the problem of cooked animals if a thermostat dies. Having an insulated hide over the heat, stores and builds up heat as well
Cheers mate, I think the two thermostats would fix the differing temperatures without needing a lower setting on the top one but as Wokka pointed out being a couple of degrees hotter than 32 probably won't bother the snake at all as long as there is a cool end and it is more the pedantic keeper that worries. I used to be very pedantic with my snakes and was very precise with heating and feeding (usually down to the gram) but over time I learned to be a lot more relaxed. I now don't even use thermostats and the only reason I weigh the food is for record keeping. You are also right though about you must test before putting any reptile in an enclosure , I usually test my enclosures between 2 and 5 days depending on how stable they are.
 
You must be doing something wrong if you cant get temps over 30 deg C with two runs of cord MidsReps.
I can easily achieve 37-40 deg C at the hot spot with two runs, I don't use a thermostat either in any of my racks or enclosures...
Alan this once again comes down to ambient temps ...eg position of rack in property... Cooler or warmer room...I stated struggle not impossible as it all depends on environment .... After running tests for a few yrs I have found 20mm between cords to work perfect under sealed tiles and even the instructions that some cord suppliers supply state a max off 25mm... Jmo.... @cement turn down your sarcasm mate... It's people like u that have emptied the members on this forum ( I'll change my avatar to "the purist" so I can be in your gang hey?);););)
 
cement[/URL] turn down your sarcasm mate... It's people like u that have emptied the members on this forum ( I'll change my avatar to "the purist" so I can be in your gang hey?);););)
Whilst i agree that sarcasm can be the lowest form of wit.............in both cases, it is people like Graham with his track record and experienced comments that make aps worthwhile, particularly for newbies.
 
Way to go mate. Turn a young blokes happy thread into a typical aps crap sling.
I help more people then you will ever know, only i dont do it on a forum.I like the old school way of dealing with people face to face. Your entitled to your opinion, and yeah I might not know how to express myself properly when I write posts here but your comment detracts from the point of the thread. You just stated that its the application.....why not say that originally?
At the end of the day, if we can't get it to where we want it, its a simple matter of undoing a few screws and routering some more cord in. Test before we use. I don't have any trouble getting my racks heated and I can garantee 100% that every snake in my collection is robust and healthy.
As to the purist comment, you should pull your head in. My opinion on pure verses crossbreed is unknown by you because you have never asked. I originally made a point of being against jags so that anyone that buys off me will know exactly where I stand and that what they are getting is exactly what I say it is, no if's or maybe's, which I consider important. What you and your "gang" lol do, I couldn't give a rats.
Go find another newbie thread to wreck pal.
 
Cheers mate, I think the two thermostats would fix the differing temperatures without needing a lower setting on the top one but as Wokka pointed out being a couple of degrees hotter than 32 probably won't bother the snake at all as long as there is a cool end and it is more the pedantic keeper that worries. I used to be very pedantic with my snakes and was very precise with heating and feeding (usually down to the gram) but over time I learned to be a lot more relaxed. I now don't even use thermostats and the only reason I weigh the food is for record keeping. You are also right though about you must test before putting any reptile in an enclosure , I usually test my enclosures between 2 and 5 days depending on how stable they are.

right you are mate, the tubs have been ventilated with a soldering iron both at the front and the back. At the front the holes are along the bottom, at the back over the heated section they are at the top this generates a flow of air using convection, and stops any pooling of CO2 if the tubs don't get opened for a while. Otherwise they are basically a fish tank. In winter you can simply block some holes to slow down heat loss and open in summer
Being pedantic is fine, over time though you will know what works and the simplicity of it sinks in. Probably the two most important things is temperature gradient and cleanliness. Get these right and everything else follows.

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Anyone who watches Cements threads, as I do because ther is always something to learn, should note that his snake rooms are made of insulated panel and so maintain relatively stable temperatures. I also use"coolrooms" and my ambient temperatures are normally between say 20 and 30 c all year round unless i chose to ventilate the rooms to achieve particular ambient temperatures. If you are going to use heat cord to heat racks in tin shed in alpine regions you may need a dozen runs per tub. with an ambient temperature of 20-30C a couple of runs is adequate. Qualifying recommendations is often necessary and with this in mind i encourage members to fill in their location so information can be targeted.
 
Indeed, where do you get those tubs from and how much?
The closest thing that I can find size wise to these tubs so far are the rat tubs from Masters but they are smaller.
 

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Andy you can get the Bells 80L tubs at bunnings but they are around $50 each
 
Maybe look at the plastic man website. In the extra large storage bins and crates categories there are some awesome tubs.

It's a shame the bell tubs don't suit your purpose yellowbeard they are great tubs.

Awesome looking rack snakefreak. Well done cement.

All it needs is the heat cord added and some edging ironed on. :)
 
wasn't suggesting they meet the COP rules just saying they are very similar in size to the OP rack.
 
They look like Snake racks Australia, pythons rack tubs 79 x 100 x 24, they are $100 ea plus freight
 
They look like Snake racks Australia, pythons rack tubs 79 x 100 x 24, they are $100 ea plus freight

That's what I thought at first, however cement stated the size is 1000 x 850 x 250mm which gives a surface area of 0.85m2 (0.625m2 is the minimum required for an adult category D python). The ones at snake racks are 1000 x 790 x 24 which gives a surface area of 0.79m2 they are smaller. It would be better to have the taller tub when fitting perches to comply with the climbing stipulation for a category D python in NSW.

Cement where did you purchase the tubs from?

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86x45x17 cm tubs........ too big for adult stimmies?????...... sry mate i seem to have hijacked it again

I don't think so.
 
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That's what I thought at first, however cement stated the size is 1000 x 850 x 250mm which gives a surface area of 0.85m2 (0.625m2 is the minimum required for an adult category D python). The ones at snake racks are 1000 x 790 x 24 which gives a surface area of 0.79m2 they are smaller. It would be better to have the taller tub when fitting perches to comply with the climbing stipulation for a category D python in NSW.

Cement where did you purchase the tubs from?

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I don't think so.

Yes because the extra height of 1cm is going to make a huge difference.
 
Yes because the extra height of 1cm is going to make a huge difference.

Who knows how hard the climbing restrictions for category D pythons will be in NSW.

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Where did you get these 1000mm x 850mm x 250mm tubs from?

It's not a difficult question to answer, is it?
 
Here is my new awesome rack system ! a huge thankyou to Graham ( Cement on here ) he made the whole rack for me ! at a very affordable price !! if anyone wants a rack built shoot him a PM ! I cannot recommend him highly enough ! :)


what wattage heatcord and thermostat are you using on this ?
 
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