Cheaper alternative to heat cages.

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Saximus, I did take into account the "non-heating part of the cord" which is why I used the term "operative length". The cord lengths and wattages were based on what was available from the Herp Shop at the time. I have not rte-checked the original data but if I get time I will. In the meantime let’s remove one metre of “non-heating cord” from both”, which brings their respective operational lengths to 3 m and 8 m. Using those figures the wattages per metre would be: 15/3 = 5 W/m and 80/8 = 10 W/m, a difference x 2 as against my x 2.3 in the original calcs. I still consider that quite significant.

Cheers,

Blue

 
Yeah you might be right sorry. I remember the difference being much smaller than that but I must have made an error at the time
 
Sorry about that, pics work for me but no one else it seems. I`ll see if I can fix it.
 
No real need for apologies from either.

Blue

 
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No real need for apologies from either of you as I have “been there, done that” myself and I understand that it is not through any lack of effort or care or thought on your behalves. Regardless of the outcomes I do appreciate your attempts. Most of all I sincerely applaud the attitude demonstrated. It is a small but insightful reflection of the core values that each of you holds. Values that I am pleased to be able to give positive recognition to.

Blue


Mike, you sound very patronising with that comment.

Jamie
 
I agree in parts to of this.
Things like thermostats, I'll only buy industry standard ones from local pet shops that comply with standards.

But the markup on most products is outstanding.
$50 for a cage that I can get off eBay for $17 is phenomenal.
URS and Exoterra selling Batten holders for 6 times the price of that at an electrical wholesaler.
Cages and enclosures at crazy prices.

Most people, especially those who have been around reptiles for ages, unlike me, know of alternatives and methods that look good and are cost effective, hence the reason for this post.


Batton holders are a perfect example of when you should be buying from a reptile supplier. UV tubes run at different wattages to normal tubes and therefore require special batton holders. If it is non uv go for what ever, but if you need UV, then don't skimp. You will not get the correct UV output from the tube and you are just wasting money. I don't think there is a single herper out there that hasn't had this mistake, I know I have. Luckily it hasn't been too disastrous like many who ended up with blind reptiles because the uv was too high or with rbd because the uv output wasn't high enough.
 
Batton holders are a perfect example of when you should be buying from a reptile supplier. UV tubes run at different wattages to normal tubes and therefore require special batton holders. If it is non uv go for what ever, but if you need UV, then don't skimp. You will not get the correct UV output from the tube and you are just wasting money. I don't think there is a single herper out there that hasn't had this mistake, I know I have. Luckily it hasn't been too disastrous like many who ended up with blind reptiles because the uv was too high or with rbd because the uv output wasn't high enough.
Special batton holders? Care to elaborate for this old sparky what you mean by this?
 
Special batton holders? Care to elaborate for this old sparky what you mean by this?

Yeah, I second that question.... Batten holders have nothing to do with Wattage output of a light.

And I was referring to the ceramic ones, that your Edison bulbs go into.
 
Saximus, I did take into account the "non-heating part of the cord" which is why I used the term "operative length". The cord lengths and wattages were based on what was available from the Herp Shop at the time. I have not rte-checked the original data but if I get time I will. In the meantime let’s remove one metre of “non-heating cord” from both”, which brings their respective operational lengths to 3 m and 8 m. Using those figures the wattages per metre would be: 15/3 = 5 W/m and 80/8 = 10 W/m, a difference x 2 as against my x 2.3 in the original calcs. I still consider that quite significant.

Cheers,

Blue


There must be a resistor in the smaller cords or something. For some reason on paper the 15W cord has a higher resistance to the 80W
EG
15W/240v=0.062A Therefore: 240V/0.062A=3870 ohms
80W/240V=0.3333A Therefore: 240V/0.3333=720 ohms
 
There must be a resistor in the smaller cords or something. For some reason on paper the 15W cord has a higher resistance to the 80W
EG
15W/240v=0.062A Therefore: 240V/0.062A=3870 ohms
80W/240V=0.3333A Therefore: 240V/0.3333=720 ohms

I just completed my capstone (Final electrical exams), and had the burning wish to never have to see Ohms law again.

y u do dis snowman?

But yes, going by that shorter cords would be much hotter, correct?
 
I just completed my capstone (Final electrical exams), and had the burning wish to never have to see Ohms law again.

y u do dis snowman?

But yes, going by that shorter cords would be much hotter, correct?

It's not hotter, but I cant work out why the resistance is so high. It draws less current as you'd expect a smaller wattage cord to do. But generally longer the cable/wire the more resistance. The only explanation is there is some sort of resistor put into the smaller cables to stop them burning out.
 
Oh and you will use ohms law for the rest of your days.. It's probably the only thing sparkies actually use. You can forget power factor formulas and vector diagrams though haha.
 
Oh and you will use ohms law for the rest of your days.. It's probably the only thing sparkies actually use. You can forget power factor formulas and vector diagrams though haha.

But not on a site I use to free my mind from work, haha
Vector what? :p
I just assumed heat cords where a bunch of little resistors.
 
But not on a site I use to free my mind from work, haha
Vector what? :p
I just assumed heat cords where a bunch of little resistors.
nah its mostly a flexible element. (which is a resistor to some degree). Yeah I've had to use it on site a fair bit. How about you [MENTION=34534]andynic07[/MENTION]
 
nah its mostly a flexible element. (which is a resistor to some degree). Yeah I've had to use it on site a fair bit. How about you @andynic07

I think he meant this site.
[MENTION=37753]Djbowker[/MENTION], I'm an electrical engineer and that stuff will haunt you forever :p
 
Instead i use 13 watt heat mats running on a timer for say 12 hour a day. I haven't replaced any in 5 years.

I would love to see some pictures of one enclosure showing the heat mat setup, if you get a chance.
 
Yes [MENTION=16366]Snowman[/MENTION] I use quite an array of formulas that I learnt as an apprentice in day to day work as I program and test high voltage protection systems in the field. You would need to either reduce the voltage or increase the resistance in a way that would not produce heat or the shorter heat cord would have more current flow causing the heat cord to get hotter than the longer one.
 
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