Heating for large enclosure - CBD's - help needed by newbie!!

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KarenS

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I have just finished making a larger enclosure for my Central Beardies but am having trouble getting the heating right.
The enclosure is around 95cm long, 55cm wide and 110cm high. Enclosure made from timber with glass front doors.
I have a fluoro UVB at the top along with two ceramic fittings with heat cages.
My aim was to use a basking spot in one heat fitting/cage and then a night lamp in the other heat fitting/cage. There is a basking ledge around 50cm below the heat cages.
I have put in a 150W basking spot in one fitting but can only get the temperature up to around 25 degrees (which was about 7 degrees above ambient). The tile on the basking ledge heats beautifully but the ambient temperature is way too low.
My next thought was to put a CHE in the other heat fitting to try to raise the temperature higher.
The two heat cages though are fairly close together, would there be an issue with putting a CHE so close to a basking spot?
If anyone has any other suggestions on how to get the heating up, I would appreciate any input!!
The Beardie's are still in their small existing enclosure until I get the heating sorted out in the new one. BTW, in the South-east Qld hinterland so temp is cool at the moment and our house generally a little cooler to start with.
 
I find that CHEs tend to distribute heat sideways rather than straight down, I prefer spotlights because of this (also because you can immediately see when a globe needs replacing, but you can't do that with a CHE :p)
I would try a 150watt spotlight, see if that makes a difference. Otherwise, try measuring the air temps next to the CHE rather than below it, and maybe stick a branch up where it's warm if you're committed to using the CHEs :)
Good luck!
 
50 cm is a bit too far from the basking spot. If you can, move the ledge or build up a basking spot with rocks or branches. 30 cm is a good distance for beardies using a 100w spottie.
Hope this helps.

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Try using higher wattage globes oh and btw beaded dragon enclosures need to be longer then they are high... Really it should be 110cmLx60cmDx50cmH... Just saying. Oh and if your thinking about using a heat rock, highly recommend you don't,they can over heat and burn your dragons.
 
As others have said I think the heat source is too far from the basking spot , I would move the basking spot closer to the heat source . About 30 cm is a good distance , also where you are measuring the heat from is important too . I make sure I measure the heat from the same height as the highest point my dragons can bask at , if they are getting to hot they will move . I use Phillips style flood globes from bunnings as they are cheap and give a decent beam of heat off .
 
I agree with the previous comments but also your UV flouro should be about 30cm or else it does absolutely nothing and tanks for beardies should be longer than taller (mine are 120x60x60).If you want to use this enclosure for beardies try putting 2 heat lamps in and either lower the flouro or raise the basking spot ie. a big log/rock under the flouro.
 
I agree with the previous comments but also your UV flouro should be about 30cm or else it does absolutely nothing and tanks for beardies should be longer than taller (mine are 120x60x60).If you want to use this enclosure for beardies try putting 2 heat lamps in and either lower the flouro or raise the basking spot ie. a big log/rock under the flouro.

Dragons need to be able to get to about 15cm from the uvb for it to be effective, this is a 10.0 T8 fluroscent im talking about.


Rick
 
Again, as others have mentioned 110cm is way too high for dragons. Also keep the basking point 25-30cm from the heat globe. Try using 100-150W heat globes. I have been advised that fluro tubes only penetrate 40cm below the globe/tubes so keep that in mind. You could easily split your enclosure in 1/2 making it about 50cm high x 2...
 
I find that CHEs tend to distribute heat sideways rather than straight down, I prefer spotlights because of this (also because you can immediately see when a globe needs replacing, but you can't do that with a CHE :p)
For a few dollars and about 15 minutes of work, you can wire a couple of indicator lamps in series to your power going from the neutral side of your CHE and now you have an idea when the globe blows as the circuit is incomplete and the globe shouldn't light.

Not that I'm a sparkie or anything, it's something I'm going to fit to my CHE's.

Of course, as always, get an electrician to do the wiring for you as 240v hertz going through you :p (sorry for the pun) :D
 
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