Green Tree Python worries

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SnakesDownUnder

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Hi Guys

I have purchased a three year old female Green Tree Python three weeks ago. She is in an enclosure wider than higher (decent size not a tub) that has multiple PVC perches, a heat lamp that allows her to access a warmer part of the enclosure and choose a temperature gradient that she's satisfied with, a medium sized water bowel which is cleaned on a regular basis and sphagnum moss as a substrate also the enclosure is set to 29. The enclosure is sprayed every second day and no it's not saturated with water. Within the three weeks we have had her she is refusing to feed, she has been offered both mice and rats of a correct size but continuously resists to feed even when partially agitated by the food. Every day i'm becoming increasingly worried about her and I'm not sure what's wrong exactly, can anybody please provide me with any information that may help me?


Cheers, Robbie
 
It's winter.

Which part of the enclosure measures 29?
 
I'm located within Sydney's Eastern Suburbs
Its sounds like she is doing what comes natural to her 29 as a ambient temp? is great if you are cooling for breeding. What is the the room temp that is your ambient in the cage if ur not breeding should be 30-31 hotspot under ur heat source i would say she is of food because of the cooler temps.
 
Its sounds like she is doing what comes natural to her 29 as a ambient temp? is great if you are cooling for breeding. What is the the room temp that is your ambient in the cage if ur not breeding should be 30-31 hotspot under ur heat source i would say she is of food because of the cooler temps.


Cheers Chondromad, I've bumped up the temp a little and I'm making sure that the room she is currently In isn't falling below 20 infact I think the room temp is 20-23, won't be breeding her until next season so I'll keep a close eye on her

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View attachment 311498 That's her currently sitting close to the heat lamp.
 
Hey Robbie,
From my experience, my opinion is GTPs are a very reclusive quiet animal that don't particularly like change. It's still adjusting to the keeping style you are providing it.
If you haven't already, I'd be asking the previous keeper every question under the sun regarding how they kept it- emulate that at first & slowly introduce the changes to your own style. I personally usually go with 29 as a hot spot for GTPs, they are easily dehydrated & excessive temps could be part of the problem IMO.
Pay attention to the animals behavior. Is she well conditioned? If so, a couple if months without food wouldn't be the end of the world. Is she perching or grounded at times? Is she cruising her enclosure? Once she's comfortable she will get in her ambush position, that's when I'd offer food.

Keep at it, I reckon she'll come good, just settling in!
Andrew
 
I also keep my Greens hot spots at 29-30. If she's in good form you have plenty of time to let her adjust before she starts losing condition. Provided she's not doing any wheezing, rubbing or excessive yawning I would leave her well alone for a further 3 weeks & like Owzi said - wait for that telltale hunting position before offering another food item. Be careful agitating them with prey, with some it works well but with other more reserved animals it can achieve the opposite.
 
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Hey Robbie,
From my experience, my opinion is GTPs are a very reclusive quiet animal that don't particularly like change. It's still adjusting to the keeping style you are providing it.
If you haven't already, I'd be asking the previous keeper every question under the sun regarding how they kept it- emulate that at first & slowly introduce the changes to your own style. I personally usually go with 29 as a hot spot for GTPs, they are easily dehydrated & excessive temps could be part of the problem IMO.
Pay attention to the animals behavior. Is she well conditioned? If so, a couple if months without food wouldn't be the end of the world. Is she perching or grounded at times? Is she cruising her enclosure? Once she's comfortable she will get in her ambush position, that's when I'd offer food.

Keep at it, I reckon she'll come good, just settling in!
Andrew

Cheers Andrew. She appears to be in good shape, she has had active nocturnal behaviour and yes she has come to the ground and coiled up within the time we have had her, i'm making sure she isn't disturbed and her enclosure is on a shelf thats closer to the ground now to avoid her seeing our heads each morning and possibly stressing her I will be attempting to feed her saturday night but if that fails I will be taking her to a veterinary clinic as she is an incredibly expensive specimen and I will need to be sure, anyway vet costs aren't to significantly high so maybe its worth it and we also need to double check she's female so we will et her sexed to.

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I also keep my Greens hot spots at 29-30. If she's in good form you have plenty of time to let her adjust before she starts losing condition. Provided she's not doing any wheezing, rubbing or excessive yawning I would leave her well alone for a further 3 weeks & like Owzi said - wait for that telltale hunting position before offering another food item. Be careful agitating them with prey, with some it works well but with other more reserved animals it can achieve the opposite.


I will leave her alone for some time although I will continue to closely monitor her without disturbing her at all, the hotspot is within the 29-31 range and she appears to be sitting close to it regularly but this morning she's moved down to get a drink I think.

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Do you guys also select specific times for feeding ?
 
I will be attempting to feed her saturday night but if that fails I will be taking her to a veterinary clinic as she is an incredibly expensive specimen and I will need to be sure

I wouldn't be taking those kind of precautions yet.

Do you guys also select specific times for feeding ?

I generally feed around the 9 PM mark.
 
We could debate/argue about temps for weeks on end but l will say it "most" of the ppl that come unstuck with Greens use those lower operating temps (28-30); my suggestion is 30+ - 31.5 and let them choose how close they want to get to the heat but give them "a choice". l have diff. locals and some of them love the 31+ range others don't, but they have a choice.
This l don't believe has been said before but the URS line of greens are VERY robust but there are a lot of others particularly the Sorong "type" that are Very sensitive and that URS line got ppl thinking that ALL Greens are pretty hardy when most are but just need some diff. settings.
l have had several types for several years and breed them every year and l have NEVER seen any Greens come unstuck @ temps around 31c and a bit of extra humidity but l have seen plenty come unstuck at those lower temps and especially when they are fed slightly bigger and dry food items. solar 17 ~B~
 
I understand your concern but I'm with beastcreature, I personally wouldn't be rushing to a vet as its more handling & interference with the snake that may be a little stressed from the change. With GTPs, you need a lot of patience.
If the snake is active at night as you say, perching during the day (grounding itself for extended periods is often a sign of stress) I wouldn't be overly concerned with feeding (as long as it has reasonable condition).
I personally feed from dusk until late at night. With your GTP I'd wait until its in ambush & offer food then. I'm assuming you know what it was feeding on with its previous owner?
 
Cheers solar 17, I have changed the thermostat and the hot spot is 30.5 she appears to be enjoying that and came to the lower more humid part of the enclosure this morning for a quick drink and then returned and she has continued to rest for the day
 
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