Melamine enclosure build question

[Native_EWD]

G'day all,

Looking at building a diy 6x2x2 melamine enclosure.

I'd like to put another enclosure of the same size on top in the near future. My question is would I need to put in a support in the middle of the enclosure to support the weight of the second enclosure on top?
I'd like to avoid putting in a vertical support for viewing reasons. Has anyone got any experience or solutions for this?

Thanks in advance

 

[Planky]

I have 3 of the size you mentioned stacked on each other and have no problems besides the bottem tanks glass being more stiff to slide then the top 2 that could be fixed with either a support as u mentioned or ordering the glass smaller in the lower cage to compensate for a little sag

 

[Native_EWD]

I have 3 of the size you mentioned stacked on each other and have no problems besides the bottem tanks glass being more stiff to slide then the top 2 that could be fixed with either a support as u mentioned or ordering the glass smaller in the lower cage to compensate for a little sag

This is the answer I was hoping for! How long have they been stacked for?

 

[arevenant]

Will be perfectly fine. There is enough support from the back and sides provided the sides and back are inset to the top and bottom. Like posted above there will be some slight sag making the glass tighter, but nothing structurally compromising.

 

[Planky]

Built them in march, I have a 100mm faceur top and bottem and the tracks glued and nailed to those the top faceur helps retain some sag

 

[Planky]

Please excuse the vents... Had to put them inside the tank as my scrubbys decided they could push them out using force, haven't gotten around to buying more as yet

 

[Fil_14]

Another solution to the sag, could be to cut a branch neatly to size. So you can screw it through the top n bott. Having a rail on top would also work, (look at your kitchen cupboards). But this will decrease your viewing size. Up to you really. Have fun mate.


Fil...

 

[Native_EWD]

Will be perfectly fine. There is enough support from the back and sides provided the sides and back are inset to the top and bottom. Like posted above there will be some slight sag making the glass tighter, but nothing structurally compromising.

Thats was the plan, cheers tho!

Nice stack you have there Planky, Thats what Im aiming for. Where did you get vents by the way?

Another solution to the sag, could be to cut a branch neatly to size. So you can screw it through the top n bott. Having a rail on top would also work, (look at your kitchen cupboards). But this will decrease your viewing size. Up to you really. Have fun mate.


Fil...

Yeah I considered this, It is for some ackies so I don't think it will be too hard to find a nice piece of wood to prop up in the middle! Im definitely going with the rail on top though, Just to be safe, Should partially hide all the globes and lights too, Bonus!

 

[wokka]

It can be an advantage to have a baffle wall in about the middle,extending from the back to within say 100 mm of the glass, to keep the heat in one end. This would also support the floors and roof. It is always a compromise for what works best for the animal and what looks best for you.

 

[CC_Viper]

What Planky has will work just fine. The top/bottom 100mm rails will work just fine to support the other enclosures and reduce sag.

My only question is what are you putting into the enclosures ? I personally prefer a taller enclosure especially when housing climbing species, my current enclosure is 4' High x 4' Wide x 2' Depth. An enclosure 4' x 3' x 2' could be a solution, even double stacked it would only measure 6', just a thought

 

[Planky]

Bunnings mate 1 buck each

 

[Rogue5861]

I made a 1200x700x900h mm enclosure for my ackies, not quite as big as the one you have planned. I had a heavy enclosure on top with about 40kg in sand (plus say 40kg for the enclosure) and didnt manage to sink the roof on my ackies enclosure, i have an 80mm support side to side in the middle and a 100mm one at the front that the glass track is on. This has worked out really well so far but not entirely sure how well it would work in a 1800mm tank.


Rick

 

[arevenant]

Built them in march, I have a 100mm faceur top and bottem and the tracks glued and nailed to those the top faceur helps retain some sag

This is how I build all mine also. 100mm on the bottom(for vents and to keep in substrate) and about 30mm on top(hides light fittings nicely). It slightly reduces your viewing height, but give a much more professional look, and that little bit of extra support and rigidity.

Oh and it's fascia for future reference.(not a grammar nazi, a signwriter so I say it 100 times a day)

 

[Virides]

Built them in march, I have a 100mm faceur top and bottem and the tracks glued and nailed to those the top faceur helps retain some sag

Quality build there Planky.

Can I suggest getting our finger grips so that you can open your glass panels easily while significantly reducing finger prints/smudges so you clean less and see more?

You can see our extensive range at - www.virides.com.au/shop

Here is some of the range:

 

[Fil_14]

I used some metal gutter guard as vents. It was about $14 for a 1200 x 280mm length. I cut it with a grinder. I got 2 external vents out of it, plus vents for the 2 two shelves I have with heat mats inside them.
I'll also add that I used extra screws to eliminate the Houdini snake issues lol.

Fil...

 

[Native_EWD]

What Planky has will work just fine. The top/bottom 100mm rails will work just fine to support the other enclosures and reduce sag.

My only question is what are you putting into the enclosures ? I personally prefer a taller enclosure especially when housing climbing species, my current enclosure is 4' High x 4' Wide x 2' Depth. An enclosure 4' x 3' x 2' could be a solution, even double stacked it would only measure 6', just a thought

Looking at keeping ackies in one, Shingles in another and Probably laceys (until big enough for the pit) or tristis in the other. Id love to go taller, But I am building the enclosure to fit in the room. Might go higher on the top enclosure.

Cheers Warwick, Ill be looking at getting some finger grips once its done.

 

[Native_EWD]

This is how I build all mine also. 100mm on the bottom(for vents and to keep in substrate) and about 30mm on top(hides light fittings nicely). It slightly reduces your viewing height, but give a much more professional look, and that little bit of extra support and rigidity.

Oh and it's fascia for future reference.(not a grammar nazi, a signwriter so I say it 100 times a day)

Good to see so many people doing the same, makes me feel more comfortable building it lmao.