New Lace monitor help

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Pirateherpss

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Recently I got a new lace monitor. It is very obvious that it was kept in poor conditions from its previous owner. I did not realise this at the time as I didn't check him out properly beforehand. My bad. Only really saw pictures and saw him through a cage door in a box. I believe he was kept in a pet-transport-box with a caged door, as that is what I received him in. Tiny little box. I removed 30 ticks from him and he is covered in fleshy wounds on his face. (moist, confined space... probably got them from rubbing his face on the walls trying to get out.)

Am thinking I got hustled big time. And its a wild caught lacey.

The person who I bought it off pretty much lied about everything to do with him I am guessing. I know my mistake. I don't need comments telling me how stupid I am for not checking him out properly before I even put him in my car. I know I'm silly for not sussing him out properly, I thought i had all the info and saw him good enough to decide I wanted him. Turns out all the info I was given was wrong and I copped it.

Anyway... positive thing is that this lacey gets given a second chance at having a good life. Im doing my best to make him happy and healthy.

When i first got him whenever you would walk past him 1-2metres away he was puff and hiss and open his mouth trying to bite whatever came close. He was obviously unhealthy and malnourished... Its been a month and he has improved significantly. His wounds are healing. (Hot water bath soaks and betadine/ saline solutions to clean wounds). He isn't cranky. He is happy chill in under his heat spot in his cage. And loves just walking around the house during the day when I'm around... He has diareahh when he poos still. I just have to keep up a healthy and nutritious diet and see what happens.

He is in a temporary enclosure at the moment until I build a big one for him. Check out his progress here in his new house for the next 2 weeks until I get him everything he needs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTXm6d2EZg4


I have trouble finding a good care sheet for keeping a lace monitor in an indoor enclosure. Could anyone help me out with diet, feeding schedule, temps, space, etc. Any of that type of info. I have read lots on them, and watched many informative videos so I have a basic general idea of care. I just want to make sure I'm doing everything 100 percent right for this little guy. ps. I did do tons of research so I knew the responsibility I was taking on in keeping a lace monitor.

Thanks! :)
 
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What temperature are you running? Basking, hot end, cold end? Or uh, hot level, cold level?
What are you feeding him and how often? Any supplements?

Runny poos after a month? I'm not an expert but there may be something wrong there....
Hopefully someone more experienced will jump in to give you a hand.
 
Runny poo isn't usually a good sign. As [MENTION=29029]MesseNoire[/MENTION] said, I'm not expert either but maybe take some poo and go get it tested for worms and stuff? Glas to hear he is doing better though
 
Lacies require a Hot basking spot of 50c -60c (surface area not air temp) with a wide basking area in order to cover the entire animal. This is to ensure that the Lacie gets up to optimal temperature quickly and can function instead of "cooking" under a smaller basking site... 2 or 3 heat lamps (50-75w) is generally a better option than a single 150w basking light as it spreads a wider heat zone. The cool ends of the enclosure can be quite cool (25c etc) as the monitor will be able to choose where he wants to be, too hot he can cool down effectively, too cool, he'll bask... You want to keep a good turnover of fresh clean water, as they do walk through, lay in and defecate in their water bowl, as well as drink from it, so daily water change is best...


As far as space goes, the bigger the enclosure that you can provide him, the better as a wild Lacie will have a natural habitat ranging in the Sq Kilometres not sq metres (bigger the better)... As they're an aboreal species (tree climbers) it is important to give them plenty of climbing options, they're also a very nervous species when they're young, so it is important to supply them with heaps of hides, hollow logs, deep substrate (i use organic sugar cane mulch, leaf litter and some sand to dig in and it is important to leave all interaction to the monitor, don't force handling on the monitor, and never drag a monitor out of its hide as it will feel insecure and you won't want to deal with a large monitor who has grown up feeling insecure and unsafe(teeth, claws & tail will be used ultra effectively)...

Fooooood!!!! They eat like a pig if they're kept hot enough... Whole prey items are a must!!! Rats, chickens, rabbits, quails etc (whole animals, fur, bones, guts etc as this is where they get their nutrients to remain healthy so don't skimp on food, chicken thigh fillets or sausages from Coles will not suffice so please don't do it - this can lead to Metabolic bone disease etc and will cause pain and eventual death to your monitor, nobody wants that)... They're not cheap to feed, but they're worth it...

Addressing the poo issue & health issues (ticks etc)... Worming the monitor will generally clear up the issue of extremely runny poo over the space of a few weeks, but to be certain that there isn't a serious underlying issue, get a specimen test...
Remove the ticks by using a pair of tweezers and removing the whole tick and then placing the ticks into boiling water or metho/ turps to kill them..

Hope this helps (I do not claim to be an expert on lace monitors, I have kept them for approximately 10 years, i have spent plenty of time picking the brains of Australia's top monitor keepers and I have found that these tips helped me to keep healthy, happy lace monitors)... I wish you well in your attempt to get this guy back on track....
 
What temperature are you running? Basking, hot end, cold end? Or uh, hot level, cold level?
What are you feeding him and how often? Any supplements?

Runny poos after a month? I'm not an expert but there may be something wrong there....
Hopefully someone more experienced will jump in to give you a hand.

Temperature is about 37 degrees under basking spot (top level), cold end (bottom level is about 20). Going to put a heat mat under the turf on one side of the enclosure that runs 24/7 so he can have a little heat spot during the night. Wont be that high temperature wise. I feed him a mixture of beef mince, raw chicken breast (both from woollies, human food), and on the odd occasion rats. I put calcium powder on the food each feed. I bought liquid vitamins that you apply a few drops to reptiles skin which contains "13 essential vitamins", once every 2 weeks.

Yeah hopefully! Just want the best for the little dude. Thanks!

- - - Updated - - -

Lacies require a Hot basking spot of 50c -60c (surface area not air temp) with a wide basking area in order to cover the entire animal. This is to ensure that the Lacie gets up to optimal temperature quickly and can function instead of "cooking" under a smaller basking site... 2 or 3 heat lamps (50-75w) is generally a better option than a single 150w basking light as it spreads a wider heat zone. The cool ends of the enclosure can be quite cool (25c etc) as the monitor will be able to choose where he wants to be, too hot he can cool down effectively, too cool, he'll bask... You want to keep a good turnover of fresh clean water, as they do walk through, lay in and defecate in their water bowl, as well as drink from it, so daily water change is best...


As far as space goes, the bigger the enclosure that you can provide him, the better as a wild Lacie will have a natural habitat ranging in the Sq Kilometres not sq metres (bigger the better)... As they're an aboreal species (tree climbers) it is important to give them plenty of climbing options, they're also a very nervous species when they're young, so it is important to supply them with heaps of hides, hollow logs, deep substrate (i use organic sugar cane mulch, leaf litter and some sand to dig in and it is important to leave all interaction to the monitor, don't force handling on the monitor, and never drag a monitor out of its hide as it will feel insecure and you won't want to deal with a large monitor who has grown up feeling insecure and unsafe(teeth, claws & tail will be used ultra effectively)...

Fooooood!!!! They eat like a pig if they're kept hot enough... Whole prey items are a must!!! Rats, chickens, rabbits, quails etc (whole animals, fur, bones, guts etc as this is where they get their nutrients to remain healthy so don't skimp on food, chicken thigh fillets or sausages from Coles will not suffice so please don't do it - this can lead to Metabolic bone disease etc and will cause pain and eventual death to your monitor, nobody wants that)... They're not cheap to feed, but they're worth it...

Addressing the poo issue & health issues (ticks etc)... Worming the monitor will generally clear up the issue of extremely runny poo over the space of a few weeks, but to be certain that there isn't a serious underlying issue, get a specimen test...
Remove the ticks by using a pair of tweezers and removing the whole tick and then placing the ticks into boiling water or metho/ turps to kill them..

Hope this helps (I do not claim to be an expert on lace monitors, I have kept them for approximately 10 years, i have spent plenty of time picking the brains of Australia's top monitor keepers and I have found that these tips helped me to keep healthy, happy lace monitors)... I wish you well in your attempt to get this guy back on track....

Wow okay, that's probably the best advice ive seen yet. Thanks for that. So I need to add more heat. Im sitting at a basking spot of 34-36. Ill up it today. Do you think my water dish needs to be large enough for him to lay in? Maybe use a big container of water instead?

With enclosure size.. do you think I would be able to add double the height to the one he is in now.. and add some logs/ branches etc.? Larger the better.. but he is indoors so I cant go as big as I would love to go. Its getting into winter so an outdoor enclosure/ large aviary is a no go until it starts heating up outside. So until then would he be able to stay in what he is in now but renovate it to be double the height? or is that still too small?

Ahhh okay, so whole foods rather than meats from woollies. What about chicken necks/ livers/ hearts from the butcher??? are they acceptable as a staple food for him?

Ive been worming his food with parasite and worm prevention. So ill have to wait out to see if that is linked with the runny poos.

You've been heaps of help, cheers!! :)
 
Whole animals as the staple for your Lacie are ESSENTIAL for long-term health, not what you suggest from the butcher or Woolies. Whole animals provide the guts, gut contents, bone, fur/feathers which all add to the nutrient/fibre requirements. You can supplement OCCASIONALLY with necks or whatever, but these should not form the basis for the diet. You must use medications for worming etc as directed, and as little as possible to get the required effect. Don't be tempted to increase the dosage or use more frequently than directed or you will do more harm than good.

From the video, it looks like the animal is very cool and lethargic, hence your ability to do what your doing with it - a recently caught wild Lacie would never tolerate such familiarity if it was at a satisfactory operating temperature. It seems you have steel mesh open "prison bars" on the enclosure. You will need to close it in, in order to retain enough heat for the animal over winter. There is a definite risk of respiratory infection if the animal remains "half active" through the winter in such an open enclosure.

One suggestion you will need to heed as the animal improves and stays warm - NEVER do what you are doing (reaching in and making your hand accessible) when there is food nearby - you're inviting very serious injury. You obviously haven't seen a hot and hungry Lacie in feeding mode. These animals are potentially very dangerous, and can switch from "benign pet" to frenzied biters in the blink of an eye. There are MANY keepers who have trusted their "pets" over the years and have learned a very hard lesson indeed - severely lacerated hands and arms, sliced tendons and nerve damage, along with the need for significant antibiotic therapy may all be yours to deal with if you are careless for even a moment with a "pet" Lacie.

NEVER get between a hungry Lacie and food - their demeanor can change in an instant, it's not that they are vicious, but the feeding instinct is so strong it overrides any consideration of tolerance towards the keeper, and once fired-up, they will have a go at anything that moves, including your hand.

I hope you are able to restore the animal to tip-top health - they are tough animals so you should succeed. They do have very high heat requirements to keep their metabolic processes functioning properly, so the suggested temps should be adhered to. The enclosure should be fine, size-wise, for the winter as you are improving its health, but outdoors is definitely the way to go when the weather warms up. I have written the above so that you know what you are dealing with however, because it appears that you may not be aware of the potential for serious injury should you misjudge the animal one day. I have seen several admirably "tame" Lacies over the years, and more than one of the keepers has lived to regret the trust placed in their pet.

Jamie
 
Just watched the youtube video, I concur with what Jamie has said... That Lacie appears to be very sluggish and not warm enough to operate effectively (certainly not 'switched on & in food mode') with a very slow tongue flick when food is right there begging to be eaten.... I know that some lacies have a toned down food response and can be hand fed, but as a comparison, mine which are starting to become quite tolerant, will launch at the food item from the other side of the enclosure (crazy food response and it keeps me on my toes lol)... I would close in the enclosure to retain heat better, and instead of having the globe angled in, I'd mount 2-3 globes from the roof pointing straight down with a couple of slate tiles to absorb the heat and give a nice hot spot to get some good belly heat as well as heat from above... Keep us updated mate...
 
Whole animals as the staple for your Lacie are ESSENTIAL for long-term health, not what you suggest from the butcher or Woolies. Whole animals provide the guts, gut contents, bone, fur/feathers which all add to the nutrient/fibre requirements. You can supplement OCCASIONALLY with necks or whatever, but these should not form the basis for the diet. You must use medications for worming etc as directed, and as little as possible to get the required effect. Don't be tempted to increase the dosage or use more frequently than directed or you will do more harm than good.

From the video, it looks like the animal is very cool and lethargic, hence your ability to do what your doing with it - a recently caught wild Lacie would never tolerate such familiarity if it was at a satisfactory operating temperature. It seems you have steel mesh open "prison bars" on the enclosure. You will need to close it in, in order to retain enough heat for the animal over winter. There is a definite risk of respiratory infection if the animal remains "half active" through the winter in such an open enclosure.

One suggestion you will need to heed as the animal improves and stays warm - NEVER do what you are doing (reaching in and making your hand accessible) when there is food nearby - you're inviting very serious injury. You obviously haven't seen a hot and hungry Lacie in feeding mode. These animals are potentially very dangerous, and can switch from "benign pet" to frenzied biters in the blink of an eye. There are MANY keepers who have trusted their "pets" over the years and have learned a very hard lesson indeed - severely lacerated hands and arms, sliced tendons and nerve damage, along with the need for significant antibiotic therapy may all be yours to deal with if you are careless for even a moment with a "pet" Lacie.

NEVER get between a hungry Lacie and food - their demeanor can change in an instant, it's not that they are vicious, but the feeding instinct is so strong it overrides any consideration of tolerance towards the keeper, and once fired-up, they will have a go at anything that moves, including your hand.

I hope you are able to restore the animal to tip-top health - they are tough animals so you should succeed. They do have very high heat requirements to keep their metabolic processes functioning properly, so the suggested temps should be adhered to. The enclosure should be fine, size-wise, for the winter as you are improving its health, but outdoors is definitely the way to go when the weather warms up. I have written the above so that you know what you are dealing with however, because it appears that you may not be aware of the potential for serious injury should you misjudge the animal one day. I have seen several admirably "tame" Lacies over the years, and more than one of the keepers has lived to regret the trust placed in their pet.

Jamie

Thanks for all your advice! Ill put it all into good practice... and here I was thinking I was some almighty beast tamer haha.. Ill be sure to be a bit more careful when it comes to handling and dinner time. Thanks again! big help! :))

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks all for the advice everyone! Ill be definitely using it to give the little guy a great life. Ive learnt more from this thread on keeping lacies than a few hours of google research! Cheers everyone! I really needed all that :)
 
They are very rewarding captives, very intelligent and can make great pets, but yes, never treat them casually - their teeth are like a serrated knife, and a slashing bite from a Lacie is an awesome thing to see.

Jamie
 
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