New keeper, just want to know some stuff :)

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Sam123

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Hi y'all I have been registered for a while, just have never posted so nice to meet you all! :)

So anyway I am the proud owner of a yearling Murray Darling Carpet Python, and have had previous and ongoing experience being around reptiles as a junior volunteer at Taronga Zoo.

I would just like to know how long it generally takes Murray's to grow to full maturity, assuming they are put on the right amount of food, heat etc. and what enclosure size would be recommended

I would also like to know if you guys follow the yearly vet checkup?

Answered thanks to [MENTION=42155]alichamp[/MENTION] Another thing is I have a problem feeder who is a bearded dragon :( She only eats outside her enclosure about every 3 days... Heat and uv is all good so i'm fairly certain that is not the issue... She is about 2 years old now and have only had this issue for the last month. Any ideas on how to get her feeding again would help.

Kind regards- Sam

P.S I'll try and get some pictures up of them both if you would like...
 
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Another thing is I have a problem feeder who is a bearded dragon :( She only eats outside her enclosure about every 3 days... Heat and uv is all good so i'm fairly certain that is not the issue... She is about 2 years old now and have only had this issue for the last month. Any ideas on how to get her feeding again would help.
Could it be normal slowing down given the time of year?
Has she brumated before?
 
Could it be normal slowing down given the time of year?
Has she brumated before?
She hasn't as we keep the temperatures high during winter and give her a stronger uv bulb

p.s we also had a vert chekup to check for parasites, he said she was healthy
 
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Doesn't matter, they can still take other seasonal cues (eg lighting, ambient and overnight temperatures). Where do you live? I'm curious as to why you are keen to try and prevent brumation.
 
Doesn't matter, they can still take other seasonal cues (eg lighting, ambient and overnight temperatures). Where do you live? I'm curious as to why you are keen to try and prevent brumation.
I live on the Northern Beaches, North of sydney. I was told by the reptile vet to not let her brumate as if done wrong it could kill her...Is that correct?
 
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Seems a bit extreme to me. I get that people may choose to keep their dragon or bluey warm over the first winter but as this is now your dragon's third winter I would have thought a good approach for the long term would be to ensure you do brumation the 'good way' ;). I'm of the opinion that it is best to take cues from your animal - if they start to slow down or decide to go into brumation then we should be attuned to this and respond appropriately. After all, if they are otherwise healthy they would be pretty good at working out their own needs.

Having said all that, I don't have experience with dragons only blueys so I will leave it here for someone else to give you better advice. All the best though and yes we always love pictures! :)
 
Ok thanks for the answer to the second bit, do you have any experience with carpet pythons? Inlands in particular?
 
Ok thanks for the answer to the second bit, do you have any experience with carpet pythons? Inlands in particular?
Nope, none! But there are lots of people here who do so I'm sure you'll get some good responses.
 
Depends on whats being fed and when, whether brumation happens, etc etc. On a 'normal' routine of feed-shed-feed, adequate sized prey items, adequate temps, you should be pretty close to whats considered 'adult' in 4-5 years. Will still grow and add bulk after that, though will slow down.
Hugely variable though.
 
Ok thanks for the reply

- - - Updated - - -

Does this seem like a adequate enclosure?enclosure.jpg it's dimensions are 90x60x100 set up with a 250 watt ceramic heater, uv globe and heat matt, set on a thermostat to 30 degrees, everything but the heat mat turns off at night.
 
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Holy guacamole, 250 is a lot of watts for a CHE! My enclosure is 6 foot high and I use 150 watts. Is it set on a thermostat?

Regarding vet checkups, a regular check up isn't really necessary. If there is an acute reason for concern, by all means, but other than that it's not worth it.
 
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Holy guacamole, 250 is a lot of watts for a CHE! My enclosure is 6 foot high and I use 150 watts. Is it set on a thermostat?
Lol I know its a lot of watts xD and yes its set on a thermostat, as im looking for ideas for my second custom made could you guys show me a pic of your enclosure(s)?
 
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Sure, there you go.

Have you ever tried a lower wattage CHE? I would be concerned that it could seriously overheat an enclosure of that size of the thermostat failed.
 

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No I have not tried a lower watt, I am actually needing to take the thermostat back as the heating socket doesn't work anymore... Least I have a 2 year warranty. Might switch the heater tho what size do you suggest?
 
You want to use the lowest wattage possible that gets you your desired temperature. I'd be thinking more like 100 watts, maybe even less..
 
And another quick thing, what are you housing in that massive enclosure?
 
Have any experience in inland carpets?

Inland Carpets have no quirks that distinguish them from other Carpets - they are basically bulletproof if you follow standard husbandry procedures. Definitely WAY too much heat in a 250W CHE, not only will it cost you a fortune to run, it will be a real danger if you have a thermostat failure. As has already been stated use the absolute minimum wattage you need to get close to the temps you are aiming for - basking spot around 32-34C, the rest of the enclosure doesn't matter because the snake will find the spots that suit it at any given time. If you look at my other post re: hides fixed to the ceiling, you might also like to try that, but not before you've reduced the wattage of your heat source. Always remember that inescapable heat of 40C+ will kill your snake in an hour or two, whereas if it's a bit cool for brief periods, no harm will come to your animal.

Jamie
 
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