Stimpson Python - Warning Strikes and Foamy Mouth

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SilentBandicoot

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Hi everybody.

Recently my partner and I acquired two pythons. A Woma for myself and a Stimpson for her. We got them from a local breeder that was known for really loving his snakes, making sure their happy and healthy, and they have a reputation for being really relaxed and easy to handle.

We've had them both for nearly four days and we have noticed a few odd things with the Stimpson. Apparently she was fine with the breeder, never causing any troubles. We have been able to take her out and handle her without any issues a couple of times, but lately she has been hissing a little and lunging out at us with her mouth closed. Earlier today I tried taking her out and she hissed quite a bit, and during the hissing some foamy bubbles appeared around her mouth. Not too much and they disappeared quickly, and never reappeared. The other day she was on my partners lap and a single bubble appeared around her mouth out of nowhere and that was it.

We can barely touch her at the moment. Although she ate her first mouse at our house not long ago today without hesitation. That was her first meal in a couple of weeks as she wouldn't eat the last time the breeders tried to feed her a week ago. She's actually looking a lot more relaxed and comfortable at the moment after eating.

Could this be a heating issue, or stress? We've got a heat mat in the back corner of the vivarium running through an "Eco Tech Advanced Reptile Thermostat" , plus an "Exo Terra Compact Fluoro Light Unit 60cm" along the front with three 28 watt halogen bulbs. Even with all that the heat reaches about 30 degrees Celsius maximum in the middle of the day, and I've tried having the thermostat temperature reader in multiple areas of the vivarium.

Thank you in advance. We're very worried about her. The Woma is doing really well by the way and seems very content with everything. Below I'll list a quick summary of her enclosure and a crude map of her vivarium so everyone can see the placement of everything.

Vivarium Details
Type: RTF-600HT Terrarium Glass (Hinged Doors
Dimensions: 60Lx45Wx60cmH
Lighting/: Exo Terra Compact Fluoro Light Unit 60cm (3x28 watt bulbs) + Reptile One Heat Matt 7 watt
Max Temperature 29-30 degrees celcius (can't get it higher)
Thermostat: Eco Tech Advanced Reptile Thermostat

crude_vivarium_map.png
 
It could be a respiratory infection judging by the foam/mucus coming from the mouth. Might be best to get checked out by a vet.

Also you need to have a warm area in the enclosure and a cooler area for the snake so it can thermoregulate it’s body temp. If the entire enclosure is up around 30 degrees with no cool spot it will stress the snake out.

Hot spot at around low 30’s (32 to 35 degrees) and cool zone in mid 20’s. Hope this helps.
 
Welcome to the forum.
First of all, you need to get the temperature higher under the heat. At this stage I wouldn't be too concerned about the bubbles, but if they continue you need to take the python to a reptile vet. Getting the temp up is going to help.
The striking out is natural. The breeder should have told you to let both snakes settle in for a week without handling or feeding them. Try to minimise handling them for a few days now, and it should settle down.
 
We've had them both for nearly four days and we have noticed a few odd things with the Stimpson. Apparently she was fine with the breeder, never causing any troubles. We have been able to take her out and handle her without any issues a couple of times, but lately she has been hissing a little and lunging out at us with her mouth closed. Earlier today I tried taking her out and she hissed quite a bit, and during the hissing some foamy bubbles appeared around her mouth. Not too much and they disappeared quickly, and never reappeared. The other day she was on my partners lap and a single bubble appeared around her mouth out of nowhere and that was it.

We can barely touch her at the moment. Although she ate her first mouse at our house not long ago today without hesitation. That was her first meal in a couple of weeks as she wouldn't eat the last time the breeders tried to feed her a week ago. She's actually looking a lot more relaxed and comfortable at the moment after eating.

Could this be a heating issue, or stress? We've got a heat mat in the back corner of the vivarium running through an "Eco Tech Advanced Reptile Thermostat" , plus an "Exo Terra Compact Fluoro Light Unit 60cm" along the front with three 28 watt halogen bulbs. Even with all that the heat reaches about 30 degrees Celsius maximum in the middle of the day, and I've tried having the thermostat temperature reader in multiple areas of the vivarium.

Thank you in advance. We're very worried about her. The Woma is doing really well by the way and seems very content with everything. Below I'll list a quick summary of her enclosure and a crude map of her vivarium so everyone can see the placement of everything.

Vivarium Details
Type: RTF-600HT Terrarium Glass (Hinged Doors
Dimensions: 60Lx45Wx60cmH
Lighting/: Exo Terra Compact Fluoro Light Unit 60cm (3x28 watt bulbs) + Reptile One Heat Matt 7 watt
Max Temperature 29-30 degrees celcius (can't get it higher)
Thermostat: Eco Tech Advanced Reptile Thermostat

View attachment 321984
Be careful having those bulbs in the Exo Terra Compact. I use them also and even with a 40w incandescent globe the fittings melt, sometimes to the point of not being able to remove the globes.
 
Thank you for your replies!

We were told by a pet store owner to keep the heat mat in the back corner and the lights up the front, leaving a cool spot in the other back corner. I wanted to put the heat mat under the lights covered by the hide and some critter crumble, but I was a bit worried about the mat underneath lighting. Would that be a better setup than the one I have at the moment though?

Yeah we might give them a bit of a break and let them settle into their new homes.

Be careful having those bulbs in the Exo Terra Compact. I use them also and even with a 40w incandescent globe the fittings melt, sometimes to the point of not being able to remove the globes.

Wow. Thanks for the heads up. I'll keep a close eye on them. Do they work as well as the dome style lights that just sit anywhere on top of a vivarium?

It could be a respiratory infection judging by the foam/mucus coming from the mouth. Might be best to get checked out by a vet.

Also you need to have a warm area in the enclosure and a cooler area for the snake so it can thermoregulate it’s body temp. If the entire enclosure is up around 30 degrees with no cool spot it will stress the snake out.

Hot spot at around low 30’s (32 to 35 degrees) and cool zone in mid 20’s. Hope this helps.

Also it didn't really look like mucus, just clear spit.
 
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Just clear spit might, and I stress might, be a sign it is coming in for a shed. Does its skin look a bit dull, or the eyes blue or murky?
 
Wow. Thanks for the heads up. I'll keep a close eye on them. Do they work as well as the dome style lights that just sit anywhere on top of a vivarium?



Also it didn't really look like mucus, just clear spit.
They are designed more for UV and cage lighting not heat. A light dome would be a much better option for heating the enclosure.
 
Just clear spit might, and I stress might, be a sign it is coming in for a shed. Does its skin look a bit dull, or the eyes blue or murky?

Actually now that you've mentioned it, I forgot to say that she is really overdue for a shed. Her skin is very pale, and a friend of mind who's had a Childrens Python for 12 years even asked if she was close to shedding.

They are designed more for UV and cage lighting not heat. A light dome would be a much better option for heating the enclosure.

That wold explain a bit. I mean there is a bit of heat coming off them but not much. Would the heat mat be okay under either one of these lighting types though if covered by a hide and Critter Crumble?
 
With the correct overhead heating, you might not need the heat mat as well. Have a rock or a branch under the heat for the python to bask on. Either of these things will also help your python to shed.
 
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