Ackies and humidity

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Foxx74

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G’day. LilithLeChat and I purchased our first pair of Ridgetails yesterday.
Just wishing to know where a good point of humidity is for them. Are we after dry and arid, or something middle of the road?
Being former Western Australian, I’m leaning personally to a drier setup, but have been reading care sheets online, and, as expected, getting conflicting or vague ‘suggestions’.
Only wanting the best for the zoo we have, I’m hoping I can get a better idea here.
TIA, Foxx
 
And here they are

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Can't see your pictures, but you're wanting dry. Think scorching hot rocks in a desert.
 
Hi, everything I suggest is to help you help your monitors, no disrespect intended to yourself or the others members taking part.
Firstly, the humidity needs to range between approx. 50 to 70%, the lower figure would be around the basking site, the higher in the cooler parts (including down in the substrate) speaking of which, you`ll need at least 15 to 20cm depth, evenly spread out, not just heaped up in parts, the reason being that apart from burrowing (which also helps them to remain hydrated because of the higher humidity) it`s extremely important to provide nesting if you have a female (a 50% chance you may have). Contrary to quite popular opinion, sexual maturity has more to do with size, not age, and this species can go from egg to egg within 6 months, so most important that nesting is available almost from the beginning. Can you say how big they both are?
The infrared bulb is o.k for supplementary heat but not very good as a "basking" bulb (I suggest removing the wire cage because if they grab hold it will cause a burn, best just having the heat bulb/s hanging loosely down). Much better are relatively low wattage (must be flood beam) halogens, very cheap to buy but very effective, you might start with 2 @ 50w, placed a few cm apart, raise/lower bulbs or basking object until you get the recommended surface temps @ between approx. 50 to 65c, the object of the exercise is to evenly heat at least the SV (snout to vent) length. The enclosure is fairly sparce, they climb quite well if given the opportunity, so I recommended more "furniture" to allow them to use as much of the above ground space as possible. The large vent will allow much heat and humidity to escape, I would close it off at least until you have supportive conditions and you`re aware if changes need to be made in terms of heat/humidity.... More to come if you respond.. ;)

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I don't agree with the humidity, I think bone dry is better (but I do agree about having the opportunity to burrow in moist substrate). Definitely agree with the infrared not being a good choice, and a regular spotlight is best, wwhatever type you like as long as it's going to get the basking spot scorching hot and it's putting out normal light, not red light. Floor or ambient heat is better for night time heating. Radiant heat from a red light is not natural or best (it's a mystery as to why they make such things since there is no natural thing which sits in the sky putting out red light and radiant heat), but as a nighttime heat source you'll get away with it.
 
Thank you Murrindindi and Sdaji. They’ve only been moved to the smaller enclosure temporarily whilst I fix the gaps in the climbing wall. (I got a little panicked when I couldn’t get the temps up and the kept looking stuck in the gaps.)
The depth on the enclosure I’d first put them in has a burrowing depth of 145mm, with a stone tower sitting on top, which i’ve since been advised to dig in, not have sitting on top of the sand.

Will rebuild on the weekend and move them back. Gives me a chance to finish off building the running water river through it.
[doublepost=1562138724,1562138406][/doublepost]Question about spotlights. Set on a timer to simulate day/night? Seems like a silly question, but I want what is best for ‘the kids’.
 
Thank you Murrindindi and Sdaji. They’ve only been moved to the smaller enclosure temporarily whilst I fix the gaps in the climbing wall. (I got a little panicked when I couldn’t get the temps up and the kept looking stuck in the gaps.)
The depth on the enclosure I’d first put them in has a burrowing depth of 145mm, with a stone tower sitting on top, which i’ve since been advised to dig in, not have sitting on top of the sand.

Will rebuild on the weekend and move them back. Gives me a chance to finish off building the running water river through it.
[doublepost=1562138724,1562138406][/doublepost]Question about spotlights. Set on a timer to simulate day/night? Seems like a silly question, but I want what is best for ‘the kids’.

I 200% would not have a running water feature for ackies. It'll keep the enclosure too humid. These things are great for frogs or water dragons or common tree snakes or maybe even chondros (in all cases they're for your enjoyment and the reptiles won't really care other than having the humidity high), but not for things which want low humidity.

Yes, it's better to have things dug into the sand rather than sitting on top. If they're heavy enough to harm the lizard, anything sitting on top is dangerous.

Almost everyone will agree that you want the spotlight on a natural cycle to give a simulation of day and night with temperature fluctuations, however, some breeders actually do keep them on 24 hour spotlights, feed the heck out of them and basically keep them running 24/7, which allows them to grow fast, breed fast, and the critics will say die fast. Sort of like fitting your whole life into half the time because you didn't spend half of it sleeping. I've never tried it myself, but I must admit, I'm curious and wouldn't mind trying one day.
 
Humidity is the one thing I’d thought of with the running water, and am hoping that by having a divider from the top down a large chunk of the height would stop it, but it is a large part of the whole reason of this thread. I’m hoping having it at the cool end and divided off to keep the humidity down, and am trying to find the point where I have to swap it out for a water dish.
 
I don't agree with the humidity, I think bone dry is better (but I do agree about having the opportunity to burrow in moist substrate). Definitely agree with the infrared not being a good choice, and a regular spotlight is best, wwhatever type you like as long as it's going to get the basking spot scorching hot and it's putting out normal light, not red light. Floor or ambient heat is better for night time heating. Radiant heat from a red light is not natural or best (it's a mystery as to why they make such things since there is no natural thing which sits in the sky putting out red light and radiant heat), but as a nighttime heat source you'll get away with it.


Which part of the humidity range I suggested are you disagreeing with, bearing in mind that the species inhabits a variety of locales, the lower figure I suggested is hardly "high"? They do not spend 12 hours per day in "baking hot and bone dry" environments as you say, otherwise they would die very quickly from dehydration (or heat exhaustion)?
You also mention "spotlights", can you make it clear that whatever "basking bulb/`s" are being used, they absolutely must be flood beam, otherwise serious burns are likely to occur. You mentioned in another thread that UVB is not needed for captive varanids, yet do not differentiate between those that consume a large % of vertebrate animals as opposed to some of the smaller species which prey on relatively large amounts of inverts (also some vertebrates, of course). How are these animals able to maintain their blood serum levels? You then recommended offering supplements, yet for the most part those are pure guesswork, some of no benefit (dietary D3 for example)? By far the best method is to ensure the feeders are well fed and offer to these mainly invert feeding species either natural or artificial UVB, especially as there is zero evidence it has any negative effect on health.
Infrared bulbs are perfectly acceptable for supplementary heat during the day or night, obviously it`s important to provide sufficient depth of substrate should the animal/s want to retreat from the light by burrowing which this and many other species do naturally.
Can you show the results of the blood tests you`ve had done on the varanids you`ve kept and bred, along with a few photos (it`s always good to see other peoples successes). Thanks!
[doublepost=1562196845,1562196599][/doublepost]
Humidity is the one thing I’d thought of with the running water, and am hoping that by having a divider from the top down a large chunk of the height would stop it, but it is a large part of the whole reason of this thread. I’m hoping having it at the cool end and divided off to keep the humidity down, and am trying to find the point where I have to swap it out for a water dish.


Hi, I agree you don`t need "running water" as such, just a decent sized drinking water dish, also make sure that if you have any vents they should only be small and positioned low down close to the substrate level, that way you`ll lose little heat and humidity (high up you will lose a fair amount).
You haven`t said how big the animals are, it`s important to know whether they`re large enough to be sexually mature, can you get an accurate measurement (without forced handling if possible)?
 
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The larger of the two is probably 20cm long.
We’ve put about 8 medium sized crickets dusted with calcium powder in the enclosure every day, as well as small amounts of minced chicken (pet grade mince, which includes chicken bones). We’ve seen the larger take the chicken mince (actually was willing to be tong-fed), but haven’t seen the smaller eat as it won’t come out of the log when we’re present.
 
Which part of the humidity range I suggested are you disagreeing with, bearing in mind that the species inhabits a variety of locales, the lower figure I suggested is hardly "high"? They do not spend 12 hours per day in "baking hot and bone dry" environments as you say, otherwise they would die very quickly from dehydration (or heat exhaustion)?
You also mention "spotlights", can you make it clear that whatever "basking bulb/`s" are being used, they absolutely must be flood beam, otherwise serious burns are likely to occur. You mentioned in another thread that UVB is not needed for captive varanids, yet do not differentiate between those that consume a large % of vertebrate animals as opposed to some of the smaller species which prey on relatively large amounts of inverts (also some vertebrates, of course). How are these animals able to maintain their blood serum levels? You then recommended offering supplements, yet for the most part those are pure guesswork, some of no benefit (dietary D3 for example)? By far the best method is to ensure the feeders are well fed and offer to these mainly invert feeding species either natural or artificial UVB, especially as there is zero evidence it has any negative effect on health.
Infrared bulbs are perfectly acceptable for supplementary heat during the day or night, obviously it`s important to provide sufficient depth of substrate should the animal/s want to retreat from the light by burrowing which this and many other species do naturally.
Can you show the results of the blood tests you`ve had done on the varanids you`ve kept and bred, along with a few photos (it`s always good to see other peoples successes). Thanks!
[doublepost=1562196845,1562196599][/doublepost]


Hi, I agree you don`t need "running water" as such, just a decent sized drinking water dish, also make sure that if you have any vents they should only be small and positioned low down close to the substrate level, that way you`ll lose little heat and humidity (high up you will lose a fair amount).
You haven`t said how big the animals are, it`s important to know whether they`re large enough to be sexually mature, can you get an accurate measurement (without forced handling if possible)?

I'm not saying they spend 12 hours constantly sitting in the hottest basking spot they can find. Yes, that would obviously kill them, but if you are standing in a place where they naturally live, during the day, you would often say '**** me, it's scorching hot and bone dry'. It's a very different environment from a rainforest or riparian mossy place. They live in rocky outcrops, I've seen them in deserts, you'll never find one in a wet environment.

To say the supplements are of no benefit is ridiculous. I've experimented with UV and supplements (with and without in all combinations) with insectivorous reptiles including small monitors, skinks, etc. With UV and without supplements, there were problems. Without UV and without supplements there was no difference. With supplements there were never any problems, and UV made no difference.

Obviously I don't have comprehensive blood data, you're just being facetious, but many generations of happy healthy lizards including small monitors, as opposed to consistent developmental issues without the supplements (whether or not UV was used) surely says something, right?

And there are cases where UV causes harm to reptiles. Monitors are pretty resilient to it (not surprisingly) but some forms of artificial UV cause eye problems, and in other species skin issues. I'm yet to see any actual empirical evidence that it helps monitors, and I've literally spent many years and multiple generations keeping small monitors side by side with and without UV, it made no difference.

You can say infrared bulbs are 'acceptable' in that the lizards may survive with them, but there are cheaper and better alternatives. To you anything which keeps them alive may be 'acceptable', but if there's a cheaper and better option, why would you not chose it?
 
Just a quickie. Murrandindi, the lighting system you suggested works an absolute treat. And the 20cm length is nose to tip of tail. They are only a pair of hatchlings.
 
The larger of the two is probably 20cm long.
We’ve put about 8 medium sized crickets dusted with calcium powder in the enclosure every day, as well as small amounts of minced chicken (pet grade mince, which includes chicken bones). We’ve seen the larger take the chicken mince (actually was willing to be tong-fed), but haven’t seen the smaller eat as it won’t come out of the log when we’re present.

Still too small to be sexually mature at that size but within several months it`s quite possible they will be, hence the need to provide suitable nesting sooner rather than later just in case one/both are female.
I would suggest sticking to whole prey only, no minces, lean meats, woodies are an excellent prey along with other insects (inverts), you can also offer small fuzzy mice on occasion (cut into pieces before defrosting if too big to swallow whole) the occasional fertilised quail egg (raw).
I repeat, supplements for the most part are pure guesswork (a multimillion $ world wide industry) easy to over/under do and in some cases of no benefit (such as dietary D3) which they can certainly absorb, but the concentrations vary so much and it has zero effect on blood serum levels, which makes it of no real benefit whatsoever according to published scientific studies, hence the use of real/artificial UVB exposure which can benefit them greatly, especially as I mentioned, if the species takes a large % of invert prey as this does (and they do very well on that type of diet).
Make sure you provide lots of cover, particularly around the basking site and feeding area, at least until they are fully acclimated to the enclosure...
If you`re interested I can try and get a link (or at least the title) of one of the studies regarding dietary D3.
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I'm not saying they spend 12 hours constantly sitting in the hottest basking spot they can find. Yes, that would obviously kill them, but if you are standing in a place where they naturally live, during the day, you would often say '**** me, it's scorching hot and bone dry'. It's a very different environment from a rainforest or riparian mossy place. They live in rocky outcrops, I've seen them in deserts, you'll never find one in a wet environment.

To say the supplements are of no benefit is ridiculous. I've experimented with UV and supplements (with and without in all combinations) with insectivorous reptiles including small monitors, skinks, etc. With UV and without supplements, there were problems. Without UV and without supplements there was no difference. With supplements there were never any problems, and UV made no difference.

Obviously I don't have comprehensive blood data, you're just being facetious, but many generations of happy healthy lizards including small monitors, as opposed to consistent developmental issues without the supplements (whether or not UV was used) surely says something, right?

And there are cases where UV causes harm to reptiles. Monitors are pretty resilient to it (not surprisingly) but some forms of artificial UV cause eye problems, and in other species skin issues. I'm yet to see any actual empirical evidence that it helps monitors, and I've literally spent many years and multiple generations keeping small monitors side by side with and without UV, it made no difference.

You can say infrared bulbs are 'acceptable' in that the lizards may survive with them, but there are cheaper and better alternatives. To you anything which keeps them alive may be 'acceptable', but if there's a cheaper and better option, why would you not chose it?

I`ll make this response quite short; I am NOT being facetious at all, I asked a perfectly reasonable question, that is please show the blood tests you`ve had done which have convinced you that species which take inverts as the most important (largest %) of prey can maintain their D3 levels without access to natural or artificial UVB, at the same time you suggest supplements should always be offered?
I also asked if you could show some photos of the "generations" of monitors you`ve bred, I think it`s great to have that much success, so many of them have failed miserably under "our" care in captivity....
In the past there have been issues with compact UVB bulbs in particular but those were mainly due to the bulb being too close to the animal, although compacts ar definitely not as effective as some other types, in part because the UVB covers such a small area.
 
I`ll make this response quite short; I am NOT being facetious at all, I asked a perfectly reasonable question, that is please show the blood tests you`ve had done which have convinced you that species which take inverts as the most important (largest %) of prey can maintain their D3 levels without access to natural or artificial UVB, at the same time you suggest supplements should always be offered?
I also asked if you could show some photos of the "generations" of monitors you`ve bred, I think it`s great to have that much success, so many of them have failed miserably under "our" care in captivity....
In the past there have been issues with compact UVB bulbs in particular but those were mainly due to the bulb being too close to the animal, although compacts ar definitely not as effective as some other types, in part because the UVB covers such a small area.

If you're not being facetious when asking for blood tests then rather than behaving in a ridiculous way you simply are ridiculous.

If I see animals which are thriving long term and for successive generations under one set of conditions and animals which get deformities and don't live long under another set, I don't care what the chemistry of the blood says, I'm content to say one set of conditions is good and the other is not.

I spent many years posting many pictures of my monitors, including in multiple publications/articles, particularly Pygmy Mulga Monitors. For many years I was putting out stacks of them, I think for a few years I was producing more of that particular species than all other breeders put together. Actually, when I first bred them my phone rang hot with astonished people asking how I did it and if I had genuinely bred them. Back then they were considered almost impossible to breed. Actually, Steve Irwin once testified in court under oath that it was literally impossible to breed them in captivity! Crazy stuff! I was one of the first people in Australia putting out information about small monitors which taught others how to do it, and it was around then that people started to catch on and have success with them in Australia. When I was first selling them I told buyers how to keep them and very clearly told them that the traditional methods probably wouldn't even keep them alive for long, and I was frustrated by them calling over the next few weeks and months saying they were inactive and not feeding, which is why eventually I started writing articles. My first article on them is probably a bit difficult to track down now, but if you're sufficiently keen, the earliest one you'd probably be able to get hold of would be the one I had published in Reptiles Australia, probably about 15 years ago now.

It's good to see that you've admitted UV can cause harm. This is more honest than your previous statement. Something expensive and potentially hazardous is best not used if it isn't shown to be necessary. In many years of experimenting, I didn't find it to give any benefit, let alone be necessary. Incidentally, for quite some years I did keep some of them under UV, partly because it served as a side by side control experiment, and partly because some buyers were so convinced that UV was necessary that they wouldn't buy monitors unless they'd been kept under UV! I suppose I could have just lied, but it was nicer to be honest. The ones without UV did just as well of course, and at the time I stopped keeping monitors I still had the first three small monitors I'd ever bought, which a friend took and they were happy with him for years, he then passed them on and I'm not sure what happened to them after that. I don't care what their blood chemistry was, they were thriving, they multiclutched every season, I went many years and goodness knows how many clutches without a single slug, and I never had any sign of MBD (except without supplements). Especially with skinks and dragons, I'd quite reliably get MBD and in my early days in the 80s and early 90s this was a big problem I didn't know how to deal with. UV didn't help, but the supplements cleared it right up and I never once had the issue in an animal which was getting supplements, after years of strugging with it (back in the 80s and early 90s, herpetoculture was in its infancy, information was basically not available, I'd never even heard of the internet until the mid 90s and there was basically nothing of use on it... but I suppose at least there weren't masses of people parroting misinformation despite a lack of hands on experience).
 
If they start breeding depending on the size rather than age, should we separate them? Are there health issues if they breed young?
 
If they start breeding depending on the size rather than age, should we separate them? Are there health issues if they breed young?

You'll get mixed opinions on this, but I never had troubles breeding them young and would be keen to get eggs sooner, because I like incubating eggs! Haha!
 
I guess I better start getting up to date with the basics of Ackie breeding, I thought I had much more time!
 
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